ianrb

Well maybe the previous poster is asking instead for the macro file, aka to add it here to your initial posting ?!

And for bulk/mass image resize handling the "File -> New batch processing" jobs can be used.

My workflow for resizing images with Affinity Photo in most cases goes with the export.
First I load the image with full size and quality in Affinity Photo. Then I do my modifications and edits in the image. At the end I export the image where I can enter the desired image format (e. g. jpeg) and the desired pixel size in the export dialog. In this dialog I also can adjust the file size by entering the quality percentage of the jpeg. And I also can find the best In addition, I can set the best compromise between quality and file size of the resulting image. On this way, the meta data is preserved (if I don't uncheck to embed meta data in the "More" panel).
In the attched screen capture the original size is outlined yellow and the desired size in export dialog has a green outline. The 2nd screen capture shows that the meta data is kept in the resulting file.
My experience is that for quality reasons resizing of the image should be the last step of an editing process.
I only use the resize dialog if I want to change the dpi resolution of the image.
In old Photoshop times I also first resized the image and then made my edits and the stored this image. In Affinity Photo I learned the described workflow woking best for my needs and results in little quality loss.
 

Thanks mate; there are still a few things I need to sort about the forum software --- Fixx's quoted started about 8 hours early lol. 
  I will give backspace a try although I'm pretty sure I would have done so --- not overly important --- will give me something to do next year
 

I use a similar method to that of @ianrb. However, I first use the crop tool to make a narrow rectangle that encloses the line I want to straighten. I then rotate as @ianrb does, and then I expand the crop region to suit.
John

thanks for that idea -- something new
Just to add > a layer mask can be used on the blank layer to lighten/remove the clone effect
Good one; and just when I thought I knew it all lol
 
 

The only abnormalities I see is that :
- you made a copy of the background layer
- a 32 px brush size is very small
- with  Source : "Current Layer & Below" selected, the cloning will affect both layers !
Try the following :
- delete de duplicate layer
- add a new (blank) pixel layer on top and keep it active (= a non-destructive working method)
- keep Source : "Current Layer & Below" selected
Then restart cloning and see what happens .

In the layers panel, make sure to re-select the background layer before doing "select sampled color" again, as I said in my previous post. Here's a walk through I just made for you
 
Let me know if this works for you :)! 

or click ALT + X
The default is the shortcut ALT + X
 
 

If you try to close the document without saving it, you should get a warning message with three buttons, Don't Save, Cancel, & Save. If you click the Save button, you should immediately get another warning message with these three buttons:

before and after -- these are the more advanced edits, however there are other new basic edited pics on my Fb page; photos by ian browne -- or Flickr
how does it look with the original pasted onto edited photo?
What is better ; one photo per thread or several as here?
Pana Fz300 
Questions welcome 

Grass in front of the river water


The same tree
 


 

a good subject for bracketing 
the first edit I would do is crop out most of the 'pop belly'.  

Your biggest drama is the lights are somewhat overexposed ; however you will be able to rescue some of that in the raw file 
Would seem 'shadow/highlight' worked well enough in this edit --- I have also used curves to balance out the light and darks  but it's rather limited with a small jpeg . 
This will give you some ideas --- maybe crop out the belly and one light --- and a bit from the bottom --- use two layers > one darkened/one lightened > blend the two together --- likely getting a bit ahead of you now 
Happy to answer questions were I can 

often easier, quicker, better to convert to black and white 

There are no tagging features built into the Affinity apps, other than in the EXIF Studio panel in Affinity Photo, but that is limited to editing the EXIF Image Description tag.

Christmas day might be ok; not too sure about after that !! 
Two file used, including the background -- another that evolved as I fiddled around 
Thanks for your help to understand the Affinity way

Thanks to everyone who replied - sorry for this much delayed Thanks - no excuse except that I haven't been back to this forum for a while. I've viewed the "5 ways to sharpen" a few times, and now I think I understand how to sharpen in AP. 

No wonder there is nothing on TV ---- it's broken free and the driver is still asleep .Talk about a magic carpet ride!! 
Not sure about elsewhere; but in Australia there is a 2-3 month non-rating period, so basically TV is really **** from November to late February


This pic is far more complicated than it looks because of the big blue sky . This the original file --- "easier" to swap an Australian  blue sky than match it 

 

What are you trying to do that would require you to do that? Just select the object with the Move Tool (the one with the black arrow icon) & drag it. As long as you don't drag on a selection handle (or the rotation center if it is visible) you can move the object to wherever you want. Use the various snapping options available in the Snapping Manager if needed to align the object to something else in the document.
The tool with the white arrow icon is the Node Tool. It is used to modify or add nodes to a vector object.

It is not possible to change the starting point of grids & rulers in the current 1.6 retail versions, but it is possible in the 1.7 customer betas, so that feature should be available when the 1.7 retail updates are released.
Guides cannot be converted to artwork. You can use snapping to center artwork on the document centerlines -- just make sure "Snap to spread" & "Include spread mid points" are enabled in the snapping manager. Alternately, in the Guides Manager click the "Percent" checkbox & enter 50% to place a guide on a document centerline, or use snapping to center one dragged out from the ruler.

Yeah. Both version in the post. 

Hi Ianrb,
It is hard for me to recreate this myself as this version of the image is quite low quality however this should be possible using the Invert and Black and White adjustments if you are able to provide the original file I should be able to create a video for you
Thanks
Callum

Thank you ianrb. You are spot on. I was wondering something was missing from very beginning. Yes. More contrast makes this shot even more beautiful. Thank you!

i like the second one

started from here and it was at a church --- we better not mention the WB lol


And we finished here just by fiddling with buttons and sliders 


Honest thoughts and question welcome, although I have no idea to how     
possibly just as much about noticing an object that could be a photo to practice editing