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ianrb

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Posts posted by ianrb

  1. WIN 10 PC
    Hello, while trying another program (PSE -- no didn't buy it ) I noticed the marching ants where easier to see as they were a little bolder for the need of a better word/s . I'm now hoping Affinity could do similar as the Ap ants that are rather small .
    Another thought is the possibility of having optional coloured ants that don't blend in with the photo colours

    All the best with your new home

  2. I'm fiddling with the effect atm . I feel PS is shown to be better as it has better (??) content aware as I have seen online . Also ; from a distant memory I think PS has a better motion blur  ; more one directional
    Does not mean there is no work around for AP
    I know of a good video where clouds were blurred behind trees --- I will keep looking for it
    Basically: have two layers > inpaint/clone tools used to cover the trees with the cloud >sky is masked out in the tree layer >add motion blur to clouds >it's sort of done . Perhaps you will remember the video that I haven't open for quite some time --- thought in was book marked/saved (??)

    Todays edit --- as I said , very early days : two layers >select subject (leaf) add mask save selection >invert selection >add mask >blur back ground
    There will be halo around subject >flatten layers or merge visible ;) >add saved selection to protect subject >use clone tool to cover the halo

    I have been doing similar as the adamsky effect for years : >two layers >motion blur all bottom layer >select top layer subject > add mask >it's sort of done
    Am open to improvements/better ways/links?questions --- sorry I cannot make a video

    Apex Park-24 0108_003-1_ w.jpg

    Apex Park-24 0108_045 blur 04_ w.jpg

    Urban MLD-24 0111_012 -02_ w.jpg

  3. Win10 PC
    I know you don't have the better LR versions (before subscriptions 😇) however I feel this would not have changed.

    Work flow I have to used :( > Lr5 export as tif to Edit folder > open into AP from Edit folder >save back to Edit as Tiff > import into Lr5 .
    The Problem : a colour / black and white file has slightly less contrast than file in Lr5
    There is no difference (I can see)  between sRGB and Adobe RGB1998 --- usually export from Lr5 as 16bit tif sRGB
    In all honestly its not a big deal for my something to photos ; mostly curiosity if I have something else wrong
    Is there a recommend colour space --- typical of online it's gets too complicated with all the variations suggested
     

  4. ANSWERED THANK YOU  😀
    My turn for the dumb question , even if I say there are no dumb questions ; just something we don't know or understand .
    When making a group (Ctrl + G) I get a standard group icon as per screen shot  . However I have seen videos where it's possible to have image of something inside the group .
    How it that possible please?


    Group in a macro : One thing I have learnt is how use a group into a macro . Lets say we want a group of adjustment layers in a macro >> open an adjustment layer or even an empty layer >make a group (Ctrl + G) and that adjustment layer will be in the group> continue to add the required adjustment layers one at a time , or masks into the group . You can make adjustments at the time or later or delete the mistakes. You can also move the layers inside the group with Ctrl + [ or ] .
    Note : you need to have "add adjustment based on selection" active >>assistant settings >third from bottom

    Back to my problem ---  HELP!!

    Untitled.jpg

  5. Hello, again I feel this has been discussed so please move/delete or whatever
    I have a one liner about the old Lr5 smart brush "get to know the smart brush like a best friend as your best friend the brush will do so much for you"

    I would really appreciate a similar smart brush in Affinity photo . In many cases when doing basic edits to photos the Lr5 brush is much faster/better than using selections tools/layers in Affinity

    I could say the same about the  Lr5 graduated filter tool . In fact I don't really bother with the Ap grad tool --- too powerful makes it's too complicated to do far more than I will ever need when editing my photos . It's just so easy and simple the add one or even any number of grads to something like a sky

    Phone pic off the card -- very cloudy late PM
    quick paint on the with the auto mask on to up end with the last
    Yes; I can and did more in Affinity but old & tired Lr5 smart brush makes it's so easy

    Please 🙂

     

    Ranfurly-23 06-04 Phn-46 w-2.jpg

    1 ap 2 w.jpg

    Ranfurly-23 06-04 Phn-46 w.jpg

  6. Hello, I'm sure this has been discussed before --- I likely used the wrong search wording so delete or move
    Firstly, many thanks for the new goodies ; many of which I would never need/use but there are still little improvement to make editing life a little simpler --- marking brush being used and changes to crop tool are great

    I would love to be able to see highlight/black clippings on the file as happens in my old 2012 Lightroom 5
    Not sure I need to add more

    Cheers
    IanB
     

    ap 2 w.jpg

  7. Since asking the question I have changed my editing work flow because I couldn't be bothered getting Lr5 and and AF2 to talk to each other .
    In all honesty , the new work flow is likely for the better once I became used to it and forgot the simpler old way of >> Lightroom >AP >lightroom

    This is likely of interest only to those using the older versions up to Lightroom 6
    Lightroom as DAM system --- sadly still the better for me since 2012 --- eeekk that is 11 years ago!!
    RAW file edited in LR5 --- often that's all I do
    Exported as an edited Jpg to "editing" folder
    Open the JPG and edit in AP2
    Save as AFphoto file (File >save as)
    Save edited file as jpg (Shift+Alt+Ctrl) to "editing" 
    Import the jpg into "editing" in LR5 >move file to it's home folder
    [ I find using only the "editing" folder simpler the same as when importing new files into "_import" in Lr5  is simpler/easier ]

    The better part: I know have an edited AFphoto file in windows but not in Lr5 so if (when 😬) I make a BIG mess of Lightroom I will always have the AFphoto file in Win10 . Far safer than having the tiff files in Lightroom also .

    Off Topic: I now use a program called "everything" when searching for files in Win10 --- far better than the Win10 search ;)

  8. 12 hours ago, v_kyr said:

    Personally I don't hazzle around with APh and macros for such usually simple and silly to do tasks, instead I use things like ImageMagick and Python scripts to add borders and the like.

    Never heard of those apps ; I wonder what else I don't know 😅
    Maybe easier just not having using borders  !
    I have this layer effects macro for adding border and shadow to layer images . Ratio makes does not any difference and it all adjustable . Once I have made adjustments to one it's just a case of copy + paste FX to other layers
    Works well once I got the macro working , however there are limitations which I have forgotten now .
    Bottom is the basic macro

    Hawthorn 23 0417  78 w.jpg

  9. 9 hours ago, v_kyr said:

    Which shows the overall limitations (and useless idiosyncosity) of Affinity's macro implementation. There's no real way to auto determine and deal with dynamic sizes and orientations for documents/images here, also there is no file i/o and dynamic text handling support etc. - All in all it's pretty useless for all those tasks, which can be done with other systems macro facilities in an elegant manner.

    I have to agree ; the macro system is rather messy .
    Instead of make big/complicated macros, I find it easier to make a number of smaller macros and then make those smaller macros into a bigger one button macro . If changes are needed (seems often for me) I  just need to edit the small part and then remake the big macro

    Cheers all

  10. 9 hours ago, Dan C said:

    Hi @ianrb,

    Thanks for providing these files!

    I can confirm that Macro Transforms work based on a Scaled Percentage of the X & Y values, therefore when your macro is recorded in portrait your transform is applying a 97% scale transform to the X value, and a 98% scale transform to the Y value.

    Applying this macro to a landscape image then applies these scaled percentages to 'swapped' values from the original recording, resulting in unexpected results.

    Therefore I would recommend creating 2 different versions of this macro - one for Vertical images and one for Horizontal, to ensure the correct scaling percentage is being applied to the expected axis value.

    I hope this helps :)

    Thanks @Dan; thought that would be the answer and is OK for V 11x14 and H11x14 , however if a different ratio is used would require  different macros .
    The white border in the macro is a new thing . I do have a macro to just add the stroke which is easy enough to manually reposition around the edge or a little inside the edge
    Cheers


     

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