Alfred

I'm not sure about the resetting thing, but in AD on Windows I've never needed to restart the app to make it 'see' newly activated fonts. I do, however, need to close and reopen any affected documents.

Looking forward to having my mind blown (again!), Jef. :)

Ditto!

I think someone must have changed things behind the scenes. I didn't have those two automatic settings turned on, but earlier today I couldn't turn off the 'Someone comments on something I follow' or the 'I receive a message' email notifications. Now I can, and I have!

Can you really turn of the 'Someone comments on something I follow' notification, Mike? Have you tried turning off the other one you mention ('I receive a message')? I can't turn off either of these, and I don't need either of them! I'll see the comments when I view my unread followed content, and any PMs I receive will be read and replied to on here, so I see no point in having anything more than the "in-app" notification.

Welcome to the Serif Affinity Forums, oregonjohn. From the build number that you've quoted, I infer that you're using the Windows version of APh (as I am). Is 'Edit > Paste Special' available as an option, and if so, what formats are listed to choose from?

Jef Brown ('WREN') sells brushes, and he offers a free sample pack. Craig Deeley and Stuart R have shared brushes here; I don't know if they also sell some. Edit: Brush wizard Paolo Limoncelli (creator of the DAUB brushes) posted some useful links for budding brush makers here.

You can alter the number of decimal places that are displayed, but there will never be more than one decimal point. ;) However, as @R C-R has pointed out, the setting only affects the displayed numbers, not the internal precision.

Select the Cog Tool and constrain the shape's base box to a square (so that you get a circular shape) by holding down the Shift key as you drag out the shape on the canvas. Using either the handles on the shape or the controls on the Context toolbar, set the 'Tooth size' to 100%, the 'Hole radius' to 0% and the 'Inner radius' also to 0%. (You have to set the hole radius first, because the inner radius cannot have a smaller value than the hole radius.) Now adjust the 'Teeth' value according to how many slices of pizza you want, and press 'Divide' to split the whole thing into that number of even segments. Then do the 'Mask to Below' thing to fill the slices with your choice of topping. Bon appétit!

If you have Affinity Designer, you can use the 'Divide' button (in the Geometry section on the top toolbar) in conjunction with the wonderfully versatile Cog Tool to create a whole set of slices in one fell swoop. Then for each slice you can put a copy of the pizza group below it, right-click the slice and choose 'Mask to Below' as described earlier.

If you increase the document 'DPI' value in the Resize Document dialog (accessed via the Document menu in the Windows version of Affinity Photo) you will be able to zoom in further before you begin to see any pixellation.

Please post again to your original thread to keep the discussion in one place.

1. With 'Snapping' on, draw the inner circle 2. Draw one petal just below the circle 3. Align the two shapes horizontally 4. Choose the Pen Tool [P] 5. Choose Line Mode from the Context toolbar 6. Draw a 0pt line from the middle of the circle to the bottom of the petal 7. Group the line and the petal (but not the circle) 8. Duplicate the group 9. Go to the Transform panel 10. Set the anchor to top centre 11. Type the required rotation value into the R control e.g. 360/11 to give you the precise angle required for 11 petals 12. 'Power duplicate' the group until the circle is surrounded by petals

Ooh, tutorials from Isabel! And a kiss, too!!

Did you mean to post somewhere else, John? This is a 'Designer Beta on Mac' thread, so its purpose is to discuss the behaviour of improvements and new features implemented in the beta releases.

Affinity Publisher is in the works. In a rush of enthusiasm it was originally announced much too early, but the public beta should be with us before the end of this year.

Yes, I agree it's not optimal. It would be great to be able to do it in one or two steps instead of six!

Unless I've misunderstood your description, Kevin, you have three consecutive nodes and you want an option to delete the two adjacent line segments when you delete the middle node. Can't you achieve that quite easily already, by breaking the path at the first and third nodes and then deleting the line segment that you've just isolated?

Some people say you're as old as you feel. The trouble is, by that reckoning I'm ancient!

Alternatively, conceal the gap by curving one of the 'join' lines with the Node Tool to make it overlap the other one.

Halftoning effectively blurs the edges of line art. A printer (imagesetter) has a fixed resolution. All it actually print is printer spots of the same size. Printer spots are the actual hardware resolution of the imagesetter (typically 3000 or more spots per inch). Halftone dots are made up of printer spots..Each dot in a halftone is a collection of printer spots, trying to simulate a circle..The number of different circle sizes possible is therefore determined by the number of printer spots available to simulate them. Divide the number of available printer spots (SPI) by the halftone ruling (LPI), and that's the theoretical number of different-size halftone dots (levels of grey) the device can print. That's why you always get more banding from, say, a 600 SPI laser printer than you do from a 3000 SPI imagesetter. Everything in a greyscale image gets halftoned. That means the raster is printed as halftone dots, at the line ruling of the halftone screen (typically 150 lines per inch). It also becomes effectively anti-aliased by the halftoning.process.That's why black text that is part of a raster image looks fuzzy compared to black vector text stacked in front of a raster image. 1 bit raster objects do not get halftoned at all. They are simply "filled in" with tiny printer spots. So it's common practice to, for example, create or scan line art (think of the inking of a comic book illustration) as 1-bit rasters at something like 1200 PPI, which overlay grayscale or full color raster images. The color artwork prints as 1/150th inch halftone dots. But the 1-bit raster actually prints as 1/1200th-inch squares, giving a crisp, sharp-edged, aliased (not anti-aliased) appearance. JET Thanks for the comprehensive reply, JET!

I think the answer to the question is "nothing" rather than "no".

I cannot confirm this. I made a 4:3 'Custom Ratio' crop and added it as a preset named 4" x 3". When I drag a side adjustment handle the aspect ratio is maintained and the Mode box on the Context toolbar still says 4" x 3"; if I choose one of the supplied 'Absolute Dimensions' presets such as 6" x 4" and drag a side handle, the aspect ratio is not maintained and the Mode box text changes to 'Absolute Dimensions'.

With the UI language set to 'English (United Kingdom)', the Colour panel is correctly labelled but the dropdown list of categories in the Swatches panel offers a choice between 'Grays', 'Colors' and 'Gradients' instead of 'Greys', 'Colours' and 'Gradients'.