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Dr Astronomy

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  1. Dr Astronomy

    astronomy photos

    Things have come on a lot - I use a solarmax II which gives about 0.5A bandwidth and dedicated mono camera. I do have a permanent mounted pier system but most of my solar ones (and planetary for that matter) are taken with a portable kit. Well if you call 30Kg additional luggage just for my astronomy kit portable !? Suggest you leave London for a night and head off to the south downs with an F2 ish 30mm lens and give the milky way a shot. - lots of nice dark skies down there. Clear Skies
  2. Dr Astronomy

    astronomy photos

    I will have to go back through my old files and find Planetary images. The UK is a bit far north for most of the planets so I have some archived ones taken nearer the equator. In the mean time here are a couple of the surface of the Sun - H Alpha re-coloured ***please don't attempt to look at or image the sun without very specialised equipment.*** Clear skies
  3. Dr Astronomy

    astronomy photos

    M57 (Ring Nebula) from night of 19/5/18 The more I use AP for image processing the more I love it Hope you like it - can you find the very faint small spiral galaxy IC1296 just to the left of the main nebula?
  4. Dr Astronomy

    Blue artifacts when sharpening

    Thanks Sean - good to know its going to be fixed
  5. Dr Astronomy

    Blue artifacts when sharpening

    HELP! Please I am getting blue artifacts when developing RAW (.dng) images I get bring the DNG into the develop persona and develop as per the screen shot attached When I apply the development I then duplicate the background layer and go sharpen - high pass (7.5px mono) and change the layer mode to soft light The navigator shows lots of blue areas yet the master image doesn't - on exporting I get an image the same as the navigator image with blue all over it. The same issue occurs with live filter If instead of softlight I use hard light or overlay there is no issue. In 16bit mode there is also no issue As I prefer to keep images in 32bit until final export is there any way around this issue Thanks
  6. Dr Astronomy

    critique needed

    Hadn't thought of it that way - LOL It was originally walking right then as I pressed the shutter it turned to catch a fish. Just a lucky shot. I am going to re-work this one as the blue in the bushes isn't on the original image but has been introduced through 32bit processing. Thanks again
  7. Dr Astronomy

    critique needed

    Thanks Rick G This is at Bowling Green Marshes (Exeter UK) about 9:30am but still good light. And yes it is a Little Egret; we get a lot of them on the south coast now and not sure how they compare to the American ones
  8. Dr Astronomy

    critique needed

    I often take some nice wildlife shots and am looking for advice on how I might improve them. This is one of an Egret and whilst I like the subject I am not sure about the water definition. And yes - I have just noticed the blue in the reed beds Any advice would be much appreciated. This is also a crop from a larger image so I do have more of the ripples
  9. Dr Astronomy

    Astronomy macros

    Anyone used to astronomy tools in PS is probably used to removing stars from astro images and the advantages that gives. This macro will remove all stars from an image, the image should be RGB 16bit or Grayscale 16bit and have the background layer duplicated once before running. It will ask for black and white levels, the black can generally be left alone but adjust the white level up or down until all stars are removed. In general resize your image first to about 1000px wide and find what figures work for white level then run with those figures in your main image as this macro can take a while depending on number of stars, image size etc... It will also produce a spare channel with a star selection mask - ultra useful in astro photos. The starless layer mode can be changed to overlay, difference etc to great effect especially if opacity is also changed WARNING - if you make too many changes to the white and black levels before applying the rendering seems to slow down each time !? Would appreciate knowing if anyone can speed up the preview rendering Clear skies and enjoy star deletion.afmacro
  10. Dr Astronomy

    Astronomy macros

    Please ignore the file above as the file wouldn't upload so here it is again LUMINANCE SEPARATION.afmacro
  11. Dr Astronomy

    Astronomy macros

    I have been trying for ages to separate genuine luminance from master RGB image. This macro does just that job - load into macros . Once run you can turn off background visibility. It allows you to apply significant blur to the colour component without affecting the overall luminance Hope you find it useful Clear skies Luminosity Mask.afmacros
  12. Dr Astronomy

    astronomy photos

    This is a rework in AP of an old summer favourite of mine - NGC7000 (North American Nebula) in Hubble palette where Red is Sii, Green is Ha and Blue is Oiii All working in AP except alignment.
  13. Dr Astronomy

    astronomy photos

    I have seen several threads on capturing star images and the issues around this with DSLR's. With the milky way starting to move into a good position in the UK I thought I would post a method. I should point out that I don't normally image the heavens with DSLR (high spec astronomy cameras normally) but tried last night for some fun. This is a method for tripod and no tracking 1. Divide 500 by your focal length of lens to get maximum exposure time before the stars stretch (I used F2.8 at 28mm) so 17.85 seconds. (For milky way try a 10mm lens) NB As I use a Pentax K-S2 the pixels are quite small (20mb APS-C) so I use about 2/3rds of that exposure time - C10 Seconds 2 Focus on a distant subject in daylight then set the camera to manual focus - lock the focus if you can and don't be tempted to move it. DSLR's don't like focusing on stars! 3 When dark point the camera at the milky way (or other target) Set ISO to about 800 and exposure as calculated above and aperture wide open - capture in RAW and turn of electronic noise reduction 4 Use a remote shutter release as you do not want to move the camera at all when taking images - I use timer as it also locks the mirror up, mirror shake can be a killer 5 Now take about 25 images - each will look black and the histogram shifted way over to the left - don't panic that's how it should be - I lost 3 images last night due to aircraft which is why I take so many Processing 1 You will need to align all images either manually or with Astroart, nebulosity, deep sky stacker etc... Unfortunately AP isn't that good at aligning star images 2 Either stack them externally or bring the aligned images into AP as a group with median combine applied to the group 3 This is why we take lots of images Noise in a single image high mag Noise in a median combine image of 22 images aligned and stacked high mag 4 Rasterise the stack 5 The final part is cleaning up the image - Leave the colour alone until the final stage and make changes as below these will change from night to night and camera to camera Apply a moderate levels adjustment first, then curves for some contrast, now remove any vignetting and finally HSL If necessary you can also de-fringe You are aiming for an image similar to that below - lots of stars and not quite a black background, If you can reproduce this type of star field you can easily image the milky way Why not try it out and be ready for the milky way in a month or so (Milky way is currently low in the sky until about 2am !) Clear skies
  14. Dr Astronomy

    New to Affinity

    Welcome aboard - I have made the switch from PS and affinity photo is great. And no you don't get a logo all over your images
  15. Dr Astronomy

    Call for Camera Images

    Just send a couple from Pentax K-s2 The DNG and JPG are both unchanged. All predevelopment settings and noise reduction etc are disabled on camera
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