Sweep
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Well I tried splitting the scan into six sections and surprisingly it worked allowing me to build the original 10x8 piece of film back into a single 4000ppi image of 2.5Gb image. Phew! There were, however, a couple of downsides; one that I had to go out and but an additional 8Gb of RAM to speed things up a bit, and the other was that, whilst I could export as a 2.5Gb TIFF file, I could not then re-open the file once I had closed it. For some reason Affinity said that it didn't recognise the file format (?). I could, however, save it in native Affinity format and reopen it successfully. Thanks again
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Thanks Bruce. I was trying to keep the individual file sizes below 1Gb as that's all the Silverfast scanner software seems to be able to cope with. I will try again with, say, eight sections and increase the overlap. It will take me a few days to try out as the scans usually run into several hours. Appreciate your support
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Run in to a problem. I currently work with various film photography formats from 645 to 10x8" and the drum scan to digitalise. Affinity Photo works quite well for my basic needs of dust removal and pretty basic dodge, burn, and soft proofing etc. When scanning 10x8" Fuji Provia, however, I need to scan in four separate operations as I hit the limit of my old scanner's capabilities. I was hoping that I could use the panorama function to reassemble these four pieces within Affinity but it keeps saying "no panorama found" Ok, I admit that I am giving Affinity a bit of a tough job as each of the four sections was scanned at 4000 pixels per inch and resulted in a file size of around 950Mb for a total assembled image file size of, I presume, 3.8Gb Am I asking too much and, if so, what would the file size limit be. thanks
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I have just been experimenting with Inpainting on some 6x7 negatives and it is a lot quicker. Still not as quick as PS though, but quicker than working on 10x8. When it does work it does a superb job, possibly too good. I have a trial version of a program that will remain nameless and it eradicates the water marks without a trace even when they appeared on a brick wall. What i found impressive was how it actually retained the brick and mortar courses instead of turning them to mush
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Kaffee = "But that's obviously the way it works" I guess so. My comment was really questioning the need for the program to sample a part of the image several tens of thousand of pixels away from the few dozen pixels that were being repaired. If you were repairing the paintwork on your car you wouldn't take a paint sample from your neighbours car would you. You would take a sample of the paint on the damaged panel and blend it in. This is the logic to which i am trying to understand Affinity. I'm old you see :-) Please bear in mind that i have very limited experience on either PS or Affinity, free trials of both plus an Affinity licence purchased at the Photo Show a couple of weeks ago, so am not trying to undermine either product, just trying to get my purchase to work for me.
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I suppose it is habit, Walt, but having played with the Dust & Scratch filter it does seem to soften the whole image even when making very small amounts of adjustment. The other thing i have to contend with besides dust is tiny hairs which have a different shape and form to dust I suppose being a film photographer my whole mind-set is analogue and i approach the removal of dust and scratches the same way i would expect to do it on a negative or wet print; i.e with a brush.
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Hello again guys, I guess that Affinity operates differently from PS 'behind the scenes' otherwise it would just be PS with a day, or several years, in the law courts! You mention that Affinity is "non-destructive by default" but does that mean i can change a setting away from default? I only work with 645, 6x7, and 10x8 scanned film so i am always going to encounter this problem as i can never get a scan done without dust. I always wet mount my negatives which keeps contamination to a minimum but i can't remove it completely. I am surprised that, if what you are suggesting is true, why Affinity needs to sample the whole image to inpaint an area as it is only a local repair. Am i missing something like a pixel area to sample for repair. I suppose if this repair sample is a percentage of the image, not a pixel count, then that could result in a massive resample area.
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Hello Kaffeeundsalz and many thanks for your reply. The image was from a 10x8" black and white negative scanned at 4000dpi and measures 31244 x 39068 pixels with a file size of 1.13Gb which i agree is pretty big. After reading your post i cropped down a sample 500x500 pixel around the same area mentioned in my first post (a small hair or dust mark) in case Affinity was trying to regenerate the whole image after each Inpainting action but it took the same extended period of time. I then saved-as the same 500x500 as an AF file but it still took the same time and the file size was still 1.13Gb?? I then resized the document to just the area of the crop but this, curiously, increased the file size to 2.2Gb so that wasn't going to solve anything Test1.pdf
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I suppose i should have really said hello on the introductions post first but, like any child with a new toy, i want to get straight on with the exciting stuff and get an issue addressed asap. I appreciate that i may not be using the correct tool (guidance appreciated) and that the programming behind the user interface may operate completely differently from PS but i am getting some super slow reactions. I bought Affinity to manipulate film camera images which I've then scanned as a TIF file and remove the inevitable dust spots which i get from scanning. The thing is, however, that what appears to be the same tool (AF Inpainting & PS spot healing) operates at massively different rates. I did a test on the same image, removing the same mark, with the same brush pixel width and whilst PS took less than a second to make the repair Affinity took 1 minute 6 seconds!! With PS it is a seamless operation of just moving between one dust spec and another, Affinity does not allow this. Considering that there is usually several dozen dust spots on each negative this is very problematic for me. So, i would greatly appreciate guidance on where i am going wrong, if there is a more suitable tool, and how i can improve things. Many thanks in advance