Dan C

Hi JoRM,
Welcome to the forums

Affinity Photo is optimised for the Surface Pro and will work as expected, provided is meets our requirements: https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/photo/full-feature-list/#system-requirements
The app is exactly the same in terms of features from both stores, you can purchase it from our store (or Microsoft Store) as you prefer. Please see the below quote from @MEB
Provided that both are Windows environments which are owned and controlled by you, you can use the same license between both your computers. If purchased through the Microsoft store, this will require you signing into the same Microsoft account to access the app, unlike the Affinity store version.

We have optimised the app for Surface devices and also tested it across as many different Walcom devices as possible, so I am certain the app is sufficient for your needs  

Hi Starpugs,
As long as you own and control both computers, then thats fine  
@MEB has explained a bit more on this post

If you are the kind of person who needs several tries to get things right ...
... then skydiving is not for you! 

Her majesty just saw what I had posted and I got the look of death and a whack round the ear, I don't think I'm going to be fed today lol! going to beg for forgiveness and put on the charm, I might even throw in a DIY job that always sweetens her, so it might be 5 later hahaha!

That would be a funny sketch...
Scene:
Dude playing with his new windows device, presses Ctrl + Alt plus the right Arrow key Dude playing with his new windows device Laying down, presses Ctrl + Alt plus the right Arrow key Dude playing with his new windows device standing on his head, presses Ctrl + Alt plus the right Arrow key Dude playing with his new windows device laying down, presses Ctrl + Alt plus the right Arrow key Dude playing with his new windows device sitting upright, presses Ctrl + Alt plus the right Arrow key Dude... FFS! Dude takes windows device back, salesperson asks for the problem, I have rotation sickness lol!  

I would guess that the uploaded imaage has been scaled down. Could you please crop the straightened image to an interesting bit that you can upload at 100%?
John

How do you want to split it. Like this

or do you mean diagonally ? 


or something else ?
Edit. I have included an .afdesign file in my second post to show you an easy way. There is no need to convert the text to curves, so it remain editable.
The method shown by @reglicois brilliant for complex designs.

See the topic How do I make material design shadows for a discussion of several ways to do this.

Hi 276cmm,

This isn't something we're currently aware of but certainly something we can look into!
Could you please upload the files here too, so I can pass them through to our dev team? If you don't want them to be public then you can send me a private message through my profile.
Thanks

Both please

Do you have Affinity Photo on your Mac, or iPad only? I'm away from the office this weekend and so won't have a testing opportunity until Monday, but if possible I would ask for you to create a .psd in Affinity Photo Mac and see if this will import into Procreate. Not to worry if not, just a good starting point for us!
 
 

Exporting to a PDF even at Image Quality: Best shouldn't be a large file, you can display PDF's in a website, just drag the PDF into Safari to see what it looks like.
 
This screenshot of the PDF displayed in Safari is approx 5 times the file size 102Kb of the PDF it's captured 20Kb

This PDF is 20Kb: Untitled.pdf  
Exporting to a PNG8 will be approx 34Kb, a JPEG is actually larger and to get anywhere close to 20Kb you would have to have Zero Quality to have a file size of approx 22Kb
This is a coloured Numbers File exported to PDF and this weighs in at 30Kb: Untitled formatted.pdf
PDF's will display better than an image in most if not all browsers.
I would maybe use Affinity Designer to make a better PDF dimensionally by selecting the table and creating an Artboard from from the selection so the exported PDF document has a neater, tighter document bounds.  
 

Hi macerto,
One easy way of doing this could be to draw a rectangle and fill this whatever colour you desire. Then move this new layer to beneath the curves in the layer studio, finally select the curves layer and set it's blend mode to 'erase'. As such:


Hope this helps!

Hi macerto,
Welcome to Affinity Forums
Another way: draw a black filled rectangle the same size of the canvas. Select both the rectangle and the skull and go to menu Layer ▸ Geometry ▸ Combine.
This will keep everything as vectors when you export the file to a vector format.

Quite right, "everyone's a critic" although that's probably not what you meant 

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Cool! Been using photoshop and illustrator for a long time, but after testing affinity photo on the iPad Pro, I really want to give it a go to slowly change.. 
great program! :-) 

Hi 276ccm!
You can use Affinity apps for Mac on any Macs you own or control for personal use, meaning you only need one license if you are signed in with the same Apple ID across both macs

Welcome to the Serif Affinity Forums, Sandy.
Each licence only covers a single platform, so I’m afraid you do have to purchase for iPad and Mac separately. The good news is that the cost of the licence for the iPad version is less than half of the cost for the Mac version.

@M.Gedo
Thanks for your files and videos, I have tested this on both Windows and Mac and I am yet unable to replicate this issue. I am certain this is a slight re-draw bug in the trial version you have, and this would not persist in the full version as other members have also reported!

Cheers MEB, I've also just recreated this issue and I'll update this thread with our development log, as we are already aware of this issue in regards to portrait images.
 

Hi Dan C,
I solved this problem. In Affinity I change color options. 
But thank you for your answer. :-)
 

Hi dietsnapple,
Welcome to the forums

I'm glad to hear you've found a previous backup, for future reference you can download the previous Designer .exe versions here and Photo .exe versions here.

Hi Tapatio,
Welcome to the forums

Unfortunately as @owenr has mentioned, our batch development mode is still being tweaked and improved and it's current state can lead to darkened images due to lens corrections and tone curves not being applied.
I'd recommend the aforementioned workaround of developing first and then applying the macro, apologies for the inconvenience this could cause but we are always working to improve the app and our developers are aware of this issue.

Hi Iggy, sorry for the wall of text, I got into it and kept writing..
A RAW file is just digitised information captured from the camera's sensor. When you load a RAW file into Photo, it performs all the usual operations—demosaicing, converting from the camera's colour space to a standardised colour space, tone mapping, etc—in an unbounded 32-bit pixel format, which means you achieve a lossless editing workspace.
This process is equivalent to developing a RAW file in any other software, and it all takes place in the Develop Persona. You mention the Canon RAW developer—not sure what you mean here, are you referring to how the RAW file is captured in camera, or Canon's own developing software? As long as you pass Affinity Photo the .CR2 file, you're working with what was captured in camera: no development has been done prior to that.
The reality is that the RAW data has to be interpolated into something meaningful in order for us to edit it. I'd recommend checking out my article "RAW, actually" on the Affinity Spotlight site if you're interested, as I believe it'll help explain why the RAW information has to be "developed": https://affinityspotlight.com/article/raw-actually/
 
If you use Canon's RAW converter, it should allow you to export in several formats such as JPEG and TIFF. A 16-bit TIFF in a wide colour space would be an appropriate high quality option here, which you could then open in Affinity Photo and edit. However, as I've said above, Affinity Photo's Develop stage is the equivalent to any other software's RAW development stage—so no, you won't be losing any more information if you simply choose to develop your RAW files in Affinity Photo.
When you actually click the blue Develop button, that's when things change. By default, you go from the unbounded 32-bit environment with a wide colour space to an integer 16-bit format with whatever your working colour space is set to—usually sRGB, which is a much more limited gamut. This is basically the same process as when you export from your RAW development software to a raster format like TIFF or JPEG. You can of course change both these default options if you wish to continue working in 32-bit (not recommended for the majority of users) and in a wider colour space (you can set the output profile to something like ROMM RGB which is a version of ProPhoto that ships with the app).
As regards quality loss—technically, there will always be a loss, but it is exactly the same loss you would experience when you export from any other RAW development software. As soon as you export to JPEG or TIFF, you're converting the bit depth and also the colour profile, both of which are typically lossy operations. In most use cases, however, this loss is negligible. The exception to this might be if you don't recover extreme highlight detail in the Develop Persona before developing—this detail is then clipped and lost. Similarly, if you have a scene with very intense colours and you convert to sRGB, you're potentially throwing away the most intense colour values because they can't be represented in sRGB's smaller gamut.
Here's a workflow I use for the majority of my images, and if you follow it I can pretty much promise you needn't worry about loss of quality:
1) Open RAW file in Develop Persona
2) Access the Develop Assistant and remove the default tone curve (see https://youtu.be/s3nCN4BZkzQ)
3) If required, pull the highlights slider back to recover extreme highlight detail (use the clipping indicators top right of the interface to determine this)
4) Check the Profiles option, and set the output profile to ROMM RGB (i.e. ProPhoto)
5) Add any other changes e.g. noise reduction, custom tone curve (I usually add a non-linear boost to the shadows and mid-tones)
6) Develop. This will now convert the image to 16-bit with a wide colour space
7) Edit further in the main Photo Persona. This is where I'll typically do the tonal work as well (instead of doing it in the Develop Persona) using Curves, Brightness/Contrast etc
8) Export! For sharing (e.g. if exporting to JPEG), don't forget to click the More button and set ICC Profile to sRGB—this will convert the output to sRGB and ensure it displays correctly under conditions that are not colour-managed.
Hope that helps.

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