Victoria Lasher
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Posts posted by Victoria Lasher
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19 hours ago, NotMyFault said:
This sentence can be interpreted in many ways. Like you didn’t understand what I tried to explain (my fault / badly formulated), or you do not want to follow these instructions (you are assuming a software bug and don’t want to adapt, simply want to inform about the assume bug). It would help me to understand your assumptions and intentions if you explicitly say what you are expecting now.
Assuming you are interested into getting information and ultimately instructions how to solve this issue:
- please upload the affinity file (.afphoto or .afdesign) having the blurriness, so we can show you what to do specifically in your case
- Blurriness by misaligned layers (fractional size or positions or stretched layers) is documented hundreds of times in this forum.
- It affects V1 and V2 equally.
- it can be easily solved, but requires the user to act accordingly
- many users agree that Affinity should change the apps to help users avoiding this issue, and have raised feature requests
I just typed a response, which seems to have disappeared, so I''ll try again.
I'm sorry, I guess I wasn't clear, I didn't understand what you were describing. However, I just found it and you were correct, there was a .5 in the Y integer. Problem solved. Thank you so much!!!
I apologize for being a bit dense about it.
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15 hours ago, NotMyFault said:
Use the move tool and transform panel to check the pixel position. It is probably fractional like 0.5.
Enter integer numbers for y position, this should solve the issue.
I'm sorry, but I don't know what you are talking about.
I just realized I didn't say that I am using Affinity Photo 2. The attached is what I have when I am opening the new file. This is the size I use most often for my work. The original and the template I used for the other files were all created in Photo 1, but resaved in Photo 2.
I don't have any problems when I create a new file and create lettering, then copy and paste to a new file. So, it appears to be a problem between AP 1 and AP 2
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I created a font for a calendar I'm making to be printed on fabric. Because I want to be able to easily change the color and have it very clean I used the pixel tool. the pictures are zoomed way in, the printing softens the edges a bit.
The red is the original. The second, on the darkest background, is on the calendar I'm working on and pasted nice and sharp. The third one, the lighter gray, is on another calendar template and also pasted nice and sharp. The fourth one, on the darker gray, is a new file I opened and pasted blurry. I tried several times, opening new files, adding a layer before I pasted, but every time it pastes blurry. All the files have the same settings. All are set to pixels at 30dpi.
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6 hours ago, mrs68tm said:
Let's take some pictures of some glasses from my kitchen. Do I have to ask the permission of the manufacturer?
A few weeks ago I went to a demonstration with some military aircrafts. There were hundreds of people that took pictures and in the next seconds I saw them on many social network. Nobody said anything.
It is just not the same thing. This is reminding me of a conversation I had with my, at the time 4 year old, grandson as we were driving past fields of corn. I would say, "look at all that corn", and he would say, "that's not corn". I said to him, "You can say it's not corn as much as you want to, but it's still corn." You can say "it's ok, I'm not doing anything wrong" as much as you want to, but you are still doing something wrong.
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3 hours ago, mrs68tm said:
I understood that. But they are just badges. For example, if I take pictures from my glasses, plates, forks, knives and spoons in order to make some kitchen assets, shall I ask permission from manufacturer?
There are thousands of things in this situation. Tulips, for example. If I buy bulbs and after they grow up and I have flowers and I want to take pictures of them to make my own assets, do I have to ask the producer of the bulbs?
The same for the badges. As long as I paid the required price for them, I can use them as per my wish. Even to resell them. I don't need the manufacturer approval.
They are not "just badges", they are a designer/artist's creation. Trying to compare taking a photo of someone else's art and then selling something you made from that, to taking a photo of a plant and using it to make something and then sell it is ridiculous. If the badges had Disney characters on them would you consider it OK to take a picture and do what you did? Believe me Disney would not agree. You might get away with it if Disney didn't find out, but it would still be dishonest. By using photos you took of someone else's art and selling it as your own you are being dishonest.
Also, NO you can not use someone else's art just because you paid for it. Let's use Disney as an example again. If you buy a badge with a picture of Mickey, or any other Disney character, and take a picture of it and "create and asset" by setting it up so things can be changed, as you said you did with the badges, it's still Disney's and if they find out they will come after you. You will get a cease-and-desist order and they will go after any profits you made and damages, and they will win!
So now I am also curious, did you buy a Universal License when you purchased your copy of Affinity? Because you can't sell stuff you create with it if you didn't.
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Hi @NathanC
This is in Photo, I don't know what the "continue last stroke" is.
It happens with both the paint brush and the pixel tool. I use the pixel tool a lot because I always have trouble with the brush tool if I want to change a color later. The pixel tool gives me a sharp edge so I get a good color change and the printing process always softens the edge a little. The number of breaks varies with the weight and length of the line and there seem to be more breaks if I have to zoom in, so the whole line isn't on the screen when I draw it. This file is 8x8 inches and I only got one break in each line. I couldn't get both in one video so I just did a screen shot of the other, but both were done the same way. I put a dot where I want the line to start then hold the shift key and dot where I want the line to end. The thinner line is the pixel tool. It wouldn't break on this, but I have had it break on a line this length multiple times, although I have been zoomed in when I did it.
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Is this a bug, or am I doing something wrong. This worked fine in V1, and I think it was working when V2 first came out. I put a dot at the starting point and then hold shift as I put a dot at the end point. But there are always small breaks along the line unless it's really short. Sometimes the openings are so small that I have to zoom way in to find it, but it has to be done to use a flood fill.
I've tried searching this with multiple phrases, but can't find anything.
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I just got a new Mac mini 2 and now all my files are in one big group listed as "Today". Is there anyway to get them back to being grouped by the year they were created? I have thousands of files and having them grouped by year was very helpful.
I guess I should add that I had to import them from a backup drive as opposed to my old computer. I don't know if that made a difference. I don't remember them resorting like this the last time I replaced my computer.
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The updates say they are optimized for Monterey, but I can't update to that because my computer is too old. Will the Affinity updates still work correctly, or should I keep the versions I have now until I get a new computer?
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On 1/11/2020 at 1:43 PM, Gear maker said:
sRGB you'll find in the color management section of the document setup. It controls what color palette is used for your document. Where the RGB hex is just part of the color panel to specify a color. Where an RGB color of say R:142 G: 27 B:31 is a RGB hex of 8E1B1F, 8E is the hex of 142, 1B is the hex of 27 and 1F is the hex of 31.
Thank you Gear maker, this answered the question. I checked and see that is what I have set as my default.
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I can't find a setting for sRGB only RGB and "RGB HEX" (and HSL, CMYK, LAB, and Grayscale). When I tried Googling it all I got was articles on HEX and RGB. Or, when I Googled just sRGB, articles on HEX. So, am I correct that "RGB HEX" is the same as sRGB?
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On 11/21/2019 at 5:14 AM, R C-R said:
If I understand this correctly, you have a pixel layer with several black lines, probably created with the Brush tool with various brushes, hardness settings, etc. so they are not solid sharp edged lines. You want to have more than one version of this layer, with identical brush strokes except for their color.
If I have that right, try this:
- Duplicate the layer.
- Select the Paint Brush Tool & a large hard edged brush like maybe the round 128 px one from the Basic set. Any similar brush will do as long as it is 100% hard, 100% opaque, etc.
- Set the brush color to whatever you want & tick the "Protect Alpha" checkbox in the context toolbar. (See note below if this checkbox is not visible.)
- Select the topmost duplicate layer & paint over the lines.
- With Protect Alpha enabled, the brush should change only the color of the lines without affecting anything else.
Note: since Protect Alpha is the rightmost item on the context toolbar, if your workspace window is not wide enough to show it, you can click on the ≫ icon to pop up a submenu with that item on it.
EDIT: added recoloring brush strokes example.afphoto with History included so you can move the History slider back & forth to see the steps I used.
Thank you! I will have to try this, I had a deadline and ended up tracing over my original lines with the color I needed. Part of my problem was not finding items that others were mentioning, such as "protect Alpha". Your instructions on that will come in handy.
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I tried that but wasn't able to get the exact color I wanted. Then I read that the color replacement brush doesn't work on Black or white, So I tried that again, and couldn't get it to work, even though it had worked earlier.
I might just have to keep playing with the Recolor adjustment layer until I'm close enough to be happy.
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My Affinity Photo is version 1.7.3 and my MacOS is High Sierra 10.13.6
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I have drawn some black lines, on a separate layer, but have now decided the lines need to be a different color. They took me quite awhile to get exactly how I wanted them, so I really don't want to try to redraw them; especially since I would like to have two versions of the lines, and that would require redrawing them absolutely perfectly(not possible for me) twice. I need to retain the feathering, so the flood fill won't work, since it makes them look thicker and chunky. I followed the instructions for the Color Replacement brush, but the only color that is changing is the very lightest of the feathered pixels along the edge of the line, but even they are not changing to the correct color, but a somewhat grayish hue of the replacement color I chose.
I did see another discussion, when I searched the Color Replacement brush, about the color not changing correctly. That person finally resolved his problem by using "Protect Alpha", but I can't find "Protect Alpha" in my program. I did try changing the color using an adjustment layer and recoloring it, but I can't get the color I want.
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I am working around this problem by grouping the layers rather than merging them. It's taking awhile to redo all the copy and paste, and then erase or delete as needed, but I do have nice, clean, sharp details.
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I don't know if these two problems are related. I am working on an older iMAC OS X El Capitan 10.11.6 which is not supported to be upgraded any further. I did inquire about whether the latest AP upgrade was OK for this OS version and was assured it was fine.
Recently I've started having a problem when I merge layers. Each layer becomes fuzzy as I merge. Interestingly it doesn't seem to be progressive. It also seems to be taking an extremely long time for the merges to occur most of the time, and I am wondering if the length of time is affecting the degree of fuzziness.
As an example: I am creating a calendar that is designed to look like cross stitch. I created a master "sampler" of the numbers, and the upper and lower case letters, I then copied and pasted these to form all the months. When I merged the layers the "stitches" became fuzzy to varying degrees. Each month was in order, so, with "January" you would expect the "J" to be fuzziest and the "y" not at all, since it was not merged down again. However, the "J" was the fuzziest, but both "a"s were only slightly fuzzy, and the rest somewhere in between. In "February" the "F" was only slightly fuzzy and the rest fairly bad, and in "March" every letter except the "c" was fairly fuzzy, the "c" so slightly fuzzed that if they had all fuzzed to only that degree I might not have noticed it.
I sometimes have even seen the spinning wheel of death, although most of the time the merge completes and I'm fine, a few times I have had to "Force quit" AP and restart my computer. I am only having this issue with AP, no other programs.
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Thank you both. And, thank you MEB for the info on ver. 1.5, that is good to know.
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Will the new Affinity Photo update, optimized for Sierra, work with my mac OS El Capitan? I updated the program without checking first to be sure I could update to Sierra and apparently my computer is too old. If not, is there some way to remove the update?
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Strange, but I guess I figured it out. As soon as I clicked outside the box I had selected to move, it snapped into focus and lost the blur. However, if you hadn't asked for a screenshot I might not have figured it out, so thank you. I had put so much work into it up to that point I guess I sort of panicked.
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I am working on a tessellation. I drew a very precise line using the pixel tool and need to mirror it and keep that precision. I copied into a new file and flipped it horizontal then copied and pasted back to the original. It looks fine until I try to drag it into the correct position. As soon as I move it the line blurs. I tried duplicating the layer but it still blurs. Can anyone tell me how I can do this, or is it a bug in Affinity? I can't just draw over it because once I have the shape I am going to have to repeatedly duplicate and drag to create the tessellation.
Smileys
in Resources
Posted
Yes, it's about the "rights of property" the designs are NOT your property, so you can NOT do whatever you want with them. The badges are yours, but the artwork on them is NOT.
You might take a picture of blue-jeans, but if you copy exactly a pair of designer jeans and then sell them, you are breaking the law.
All these examples you are trying to use, to try to compare to what you are doing, in order to try to justify your stealing someone else's designs, are irrelevant, none of those things are the same as what you are doing with someone else's artwork.