firstdefence

Not chav just a severe lack of coffee! 

My mum says I'm special 
 
What I meant was I couldn't fix the loss of opaqueness when strrrrretching a pixel but I transformered the process using autobot technology 

Can I have one of the 18 core iMac Pros when you've done with them, I live 14 miles away and can get there in 20mins 

As a mouse user, are you aware that you can use a mouse scroll wheel to change numeric field values by placing the pointer over the field & moving the wheel? You might find that easier than dragging the slider.

Another user is using the Huion Inspiroy H640P which is a cheaper version tablet but you might want to ask if they've had any issues to date.
I use the XP-PEN Deco 03 and its all good.

This is so chav 

Once you have rotated it use the mirror options to flip

Once you have rotated it use the mirror options to flip

i'm using huion 680tf, no problem so far with affinity photo.

I have the Huion 610Pro, the same as the OP asked about, and can happily report it works, for me, without problem in both AP and AD.
Jeff

This is so chav 

Download the trial and play, make one of your projects and see if it suits your needs and workflow.
I think you have already answered your question. But try Affinity Designer using the trial you might be surprised.
Us  lol!
 

No kidding, don't underestimate the incredible amount of support the staff & user community offer through this forum. It isn't unusual for someone to post a video or even fully worked example for a 'how do I make/do this?' question, more often than not within a few hours of the time the question is posted.
Another plus is that both the Mac & Windows versions are built using native OS code, which can greatly improve responsiveness for some operations & integrate very well with other OS level features.

Download the trial and play, make one of your projects and see if it suits your needs and workflow.
I think you have already answered your question. But try Affinity Designer using the trial you might be surprised.
Us  lol!
 

Is the PDF open in another program such as a PDF viewer, another PDF editing program, etc. at the same time?
If you have the PDF open in Affinity Photo and then open it in something else, for example when seeing what it looks like in a PDF Viewer (or if the PDF was already open in something else before opening it in Affinity Photo), this will prevent Affinity Photo from being able to export it as this PDF and will give an error like what you're seeing.  In addition when opening the PDF in another program, the other program can sometimes lock the file for editing, but fail to release it correctly, meaning Affinity Photo isn't able to write to the file until you completely close the other program.  

Theres a pretty cool app called CrazyBump that can create normals.

Added a Bitmap fill for the texture and tweaked with fx for shadows and blur like Bobdaubs mentioned.

 

Scrubbed adjustment filters and just made the flag up, less messing about, much simpler and a better look. Was fun to do, file has the history saved so you can see how I wasted my time hahaha!

indiana magic gold.afdesign
 
 

Thank yoU

AP can import ABR files
You can try adding the shapes to a PSD file and opening in AP, alternatively consider buying Affinity Designer for vector work. 
You can open the same PSD file in Affinity Designer and try adding those vector shapes to the Assets Panel, which is a holding place for custom made shapes.
You can download the Affinity Designer trial to see if it suits your need.
You can open PSD files, so you could add multiple shapes to a PSD and add a style to each of them, then open that PSD in AP, select the shape that has a particular style and add that style to the Styles Panel.
Please bear in mind that a lot of the style attributes in Photoshop will not be applied in Affinity, so a lot of styles will not open correctly, gradient style should be OK and some button styles will work but any style with a pattern or feature exclusive to Photoshop will not work.
 

You might want to try feathering the edge by applying a gaussian blur. Click on the fx icon at the bottom of the layers panel and tick the gaussian blur option. Adjust the slider to get the amount of feather (blur) you want. The slider only goes to 100 pixels, but you can get a higher value by typing a number in the box at the end of the slider.
 
feathered edge.afdesign

Easy work around. Just use line pressures on pen strokes.

In the meantime, as a work around, you could use arrow brushes instead !
I've made a small set I regularly use (see attachment). Just double click on the file to import them. After import, double clicking on one of the brushes , opens a dialog window where you can change the size to you needs.
 

Arrows.afbrushes

Hi, infrared processing is fairly straightforward—hopefully you shot in RAW? Did you custom white balance (should produce a fairly neutral image with a purple or yellow cast) or leave it on auto (will look intensely red)?
If it looks red, you'll need to white balance in-app, so hopefully you're working with RAW files! The white balance shift required for infrared is extreme, however, and Photo will only go down to 2000K. If your images are red, I'd really recommend white balancing at the scene—the issue with leaving it to post is most software won't let you shift white balance as much as is required (but will read and apply it from the image's metadata fine), and your camera will also expose for the red channel, which underexposes the blue and green channels. It's much better to take a white balance reading either from a neutral white card or from some foliage (even just the overall scene would be much better than leaving white balance on auto).
If you have white balanced your images, all the better. From here, people usually mix and blend the channel information depending on the look they want.
As a starting point, add a Channel Mixer adjustment. Target Reds, and set Red to 0 and Blue to 100. Now target Blues, and set Red to 100 and Blue to 0—so you're effectively swapping the red and blue channels.
For another look, switch across to Greens and set Green to 0 and Blue to 100—so now you've eliminated the Green channel entirely and replaced it with Blue.
You can also use a variety of other adjustments to increase the contrast, boost certain tones etc. Something you might also want to try is converting to black and white (for which you can use a Black & White adjustment) as infrared monochrome imagery has a distinct look compared to traditional black and white.
The rest is more or less experimentation, just like if you were editing a traditional photograph. Hope that helps—there are several Photo for iPad video tutorials that you could look at to give you some more ideas, and even more desktop videos whose techniques are also applicable on iPad.

Not to the adjustments, to the tool itself( colour replacement brush). The adjustment does not have a tolerance, will probably not have one, and it did not have one in 1.5 either.