firstdefence

Take a look at this video: masking with a complex photo Masking is a patience game, especially with hair. For fine hair its better to remove it and add in fly away hair with a fine brush because in most cases the hair is just too fine to retain a realistic look. learning the tools needed to move about and zoom will help and if you have a scroll button on your mouse you can set it to be used as zoom in Preferences (Ctrl+,) in the Tools Pane. Editing the mask layer by painting either black or white is also a useful tool in getting a clean mask, switching between black and white is as easy as pressing X Make sure the colours are set to black and white first, black removes, white reveals. To get straight lines click in one place then move the cursor and click again while holding down the shift key.

Just been reading a post about After Effects and mouse issues, these may help you a little, firstly make sure the mouse is clean by using a can of compressed air, a few short puffs will clean the laser area, once that's done try the mouse, if you still have issues look into this...

I had this issue when making boxes with glue edges, I just created the shape I wanted with an overlap; I actually just created a reflection and merged them, then created assets from it, so now its very easy to make boxes.

I haven't had it happen to me yet but give me time and I'll report back.

Not that I'm aware of. I've had instances of lightly touching the mouse and stuff flying off or zooming in, I never got to the bottom of it. It wasn't tied to a particular app either. But it did happen in Illustrator quite a bit but I used illustrator a lot. You could try taping the corners down with some low tack tape

Does this happen if you select show as list You can also add multiple items to the assets panel by selecting more than one, bear in mind if a shape has several components and isn't grouped each of those components will become a separate asset, grouping them will create a combined asset.

Take a look at this: Magic Mouse config

Just made a short video for the hell of it and used a trial of camtasia studio on my partners windows laptop. Apologises for the horrible watermark Techsmith emblazen across the screen because its a trial version but it came out fairly well. and was fun to do. Arrgh I deleted my vid lol! So I decided to edit it a bit more, damn those funky transitions, I've decided on a slick black fade... oh yeah! Untitled Project2.mp4 Inspired by R C-R

Forgive me, but I cannot see your logic nor your frustrations with this problem, firstly, Affinity Photo (AP) is not Photoshop so expecting AP to do what Photoshop can do is not being very realistic, even if you consider this feature to be an essential one. While most people describe AP as a Photoshop killer, it is far from being that, AP is in it's formative years in carving out a niche for itself as Affinity Photo. Photoshop has had decades; almost three decades in fact, to refine it's feature set and be the "tour de force" it is today, even then people still gripe at Photoshops lack of "something" so I think its unfair of you to have a small "rattle out of the cot" moment because AP doesn't do what you want it to do and condemn it as not recommendable. As for the problem, on the Photoshop side, surely you need to know where the 4 guides are going to go and consequently need to work all out all four co-ordinates for the guides and then go through your Photoshop centring process to centre the object in that given area, this seems to be making work, not streamlining it. Why don't you just use 2 guides and the centre control point of the object in Photoshop to do the same thing but in less steps, in fact why use guides at all? Whether in Photoshop or Affinity Photo, knowing that the top left of the image is X:0 Y:0 it seems a very simple and short process to do a bit of math to place an object exactly where you want it using any of the objects control points with the easiest points being the centre or top left. Even after adding 2 guides it still seems a shorter route to your method in Photoshop, If this is to be a repeatable event with the same size image you can easily make an asset to just drag and drop, that would even be faster than an Photoshop Action. I know you want to create an area to centre an object but I just don't get that logic, a reason as to why you would use your four guides method + the centring steps instead of a two step co-ordinate method would help in understanding your thinking and maybe help you with a better process all round Side question: Forum Grinch, why aren't there any Christmas Emoticons

When using the brush check the controller option on the context menu, if its set to automatic the shape will stretch, changing it to None or Brush Defaults lets the brush behave as intended.

Don't forget you can make this an Asset so you can just drag it onto the work place its a great time saver.

Ungroup the Group of squares Select them all and convert them to curves Use the Combine option under Operations on the Visible Menu, or Layer Menu: Geometry > Combine Select the rectangle and the Combined squares and choose the Subtract option from the visible menu or Layer Menu: Geometry > Subtract

Just use the Colour Panel and choose a green fill then apply the brush.

I'd go with Macbook, but I am Biased being an OS X and iMac user for many years, so I'd opt for a MacBook and max the memory out. My partner uses Affinity Designer (AD) on a DELL Inspiron 17 5767 i7 2.9Ghz 8GB Memory and a choice between a Radeon (TM) R7 M445 and the Intel(R) HD Graphics 620 this laptop is well specced for a £600 laptop and runs all the major photo/graphic apps with aplomb, but, it's not a mac and as far as I'm concerned that makes all the difference. I think personal preference is the decider here but my vote is MacBook.

What resolution do you have your laptop screen set to? Can the screen resolution on your laptop be increased? I set my laptop to the standard 1366 x768 that most 15" laptop screens use and the export window was all visible. That window is also resizable but generally its an upwards scale and has a limit when downsizing to 877x663; well it does on my screen. check your graphic drivers are installed correctly by looking at device manager.

Have you tried using the node tool (A) selecting all the nodes in the shape you want to "snap to the path" and keeping "snap to object geometry" turned on then zooming in and following the path with the node point that you want to meet the path. Note: Convert the shape to a curve prior to selecting the Node Tool (A)

I use Artboards as a tool for organising different parts of my designs, so if I have a particular shape, a shape with a texture or a logo, I can easily export them with individual export options. I rename the Artboards to reference what is on that Artboard, so when I export the files, they adopt the Artboard name. As an example I can have Artboard1 renamed to Square, Artboard2 renamed to Left Side and Artboard3 renamed to Circle with Texture.

Doing this yourself does have benefits. You develop better skills, a more artistic eye, an appreciation of what it takes to make art, an understanding of timescales for producing art and kudos for creating the art by your own hand.

With regards to the enabled here, disabled here, you have likely only got one item selected. Would be a feature option to have a check button to save the last used spacing

Thanks for the workaround

Hi all, I make crafting stuff for my partner and there are occasions when I need to make an Offset path to emulate things like stitching, is there a way to get an offset path in affinity designer? On an odd shape, scaling just doesn't work because you don't get an even line.

I know you have a dimensional display between elements. My suggestion is a dimensions/resize tool for a selected element, a point in case would be a 6 sided polygon. The polygon can be dimensioned/resized from apex to apex but it would be nice to be able to resize using selective dimensions like those shown below. I have just worked out how to do the horizontal dimension i.e. by default the bounding box is based on the height of the element so you have a gap left and right of the element, by converting the element to a curve the bounding box clamps to the width as well as the height which now enables accurate resizing along the horizontal plane but it would be nice to be able to resize by the 6 facets (the external vertical arrow)