firstdefence

You cannot move the symmetry back, once you move it, intentionally or accidentally there is no way to snap it back, it ignores all snapping, all you can do is place guides at the document centre, both vertically and horizontally and get as close as you can to the guides intersection by incrementally zooming in and manually moving the symmetry node/marker. The symmetry Axis point doesn't register in the transform panel either so it's not like you can reset from there either. The only thing you can do is make sure you lock the symmetry in place prior to any work. Affinity really should start asking their customers what they want from a feature; like symmetry. Adding a feature half ass baked just creates problems and facilitates the need for workarounds and workarounds means you failed to meet the needs of your customers. A simple reset option would certainly help but if you are going to do something do it better than anyone else. "Function, Precision, Control, Design", NOT, to be a Royal PIA.

Use the pen tool to make a clipping mask to get a nice clean edge, simply nest the image inside the pen tool created curve.

In Affinity Designer the brushes panel should change to have raster brushes when in Pixel Persona.

Jixipix do a plugin for Mac called Spektrel Art. You can also use G'MIC online although the interface is very clunky, on Mac you can install G'MIC to Gimp but not Affinity Photo.

I think you can get close by using a bit of Median Blur, Contrast filter and then an unsharp filter. Pusscat painterly cartoon.afphoto

Glad to help

Could also be that the elements are off canvas so look at the layer panel to see if any of the elements are evident, then click on a layer and check it's X and Y co-ordinates in the transform panel.

@ibideti Try opening this, I'm not sure it's all of it but it's a step in the right direction, there are 33 pages so it might be ok, the layout needs changing because it looks like you have single pages vertical. but I'm sure it's workable. CATALOGO - UNION Imported.afpub

Macro's in Affinity are in their infancy and should be considered rudimentary macro's for the time being. You could potentially create a macro to process a single file and add that macro to a batch job as @walt.farrell has mentioned but I'm not sure how effective it would be over 1000s of images. Really, you need a more specific app that is designed for batch processing, one of the best I've seen in a while is Retro Batch Pro, it's node based and so easy a 5 year old kid could use it, I think it will do exactly what you want with ease. I would recommend downloading the Trial and testing it out on a sample batch. I would still consider buying Affinity so you can edit images if you need to, still worth having and hopefully the macro capabilities will improve significantly in the future. I have no affiliation with Flying Meat the people who make Retro Batch, I just think it's a very good app.

Worth it for me, but not worth it for you.

What we are doing is trying to figure out why Affinity Photo is opening your tif files like it does, sometimes it's good to document efforts, it may help people further down the line with troublesome files that they can maybe fix until a patch becomes available. Ultimately it's the backend that will have to be fixed but for now there is a workaround from Loukash until that patch appears.

Just had an epic mess around with channels and you can get a semblance of the image barring the small darker area's which end up being unsightly marks and effectively ruins any process. File > Export... from Preview as an OpenEXR file allows affinity to open the file as: even though it's exported as 16bit so not sure if the 32bit data is retained or not, any way of finding out? Killarmey-Flowers-New-1 copy.exrApprox 26Mb

Actually it's not the transparency that's the problem as I've just used Preview to export to a tiff file and left the transparency option checked, I think the it works because it goes to 16bit

Have you tried @loukash workaround?

Nice quick fix.

Actually, If you see an asterisk (*) inside the brackets as in next to the 32, it means your image is in a colour profile other than your working space default. If your working space is Adobe RGB and your image is too, then no asterisk, but if instead you open a file in sRGB, it will have an asterisk at the end of the title bar information to let you know about the profile mismatch. This isn't a bad thing necessarily since you could easily have opened it this way on purpose. Photoshop is just subtly letting you know about the situation. The one outside means you have made changes but not saved yet.

Even Adopey Photoshop CC opens these files brighter than they appear in Preview. Pixelmator Pro opens the file correctly so I exported the file as a tiff file and Affinity opens the file as Pixelmator Pro does. I can vaguely remember there were discussions about tif over tiff files a while back, so I wonder if it's the tif that's the issue because all the info is there as can be seen with this exported file from Pixelmator Pro, see zip file attached. Killarmey-Flowers-New-1 copy.tiff.zip With regard to the original file, there is a 32bit preview panel that you can enable and also changing the format to 32bit Adobe RGB 1998 linear kind of helps but I can only get a translucent image.

It depends if, what you are doing and the productivity increase that will potentially earn you that cost back and then start earning you a profit but I absolutely agree $300 is a lot of money. If usage is occasional, then the price is simply not worth it. I bought it for a large batch job and on that one job, it paid for itself, everything after that is cash in my pocket. The app isn't perfect and oftentimes it needs careful attention to get the best out of it but quality in gets quality out and same goes for versa. The interface could be better/nicer looking, it looks like a ex-windows programmer has designed it but aesthetics aside, I really don't care as long as it functions to the best of it's abilities.

As to why the heif file is greyed out while a heic is not, is a bit confusing, especially considering the heic file isn't even listed as a supported file in the full open list. a bit Ar*e over t*t if you ask me.

If you drag and drop the heif file it will open. From: https://affinity.serif.com/en-gb/photo/full-feature-list/

To be brutally honest there isn't much you can do with this image, if you sharpen it you end up with a maze texture and all you are really doing is adding an edge to colour areas of the image which makes it worse. I would have to say this image is beyond saving and anything you do after the fact will not enhance it. Re tips for using a Mobile Camera, take a look at a few links below: https://www.tourradar.com/days-to-come/how-to-photograph-northern-lights/ https://www.travelfoss.com/how-to-photo-shoot-the-northern-lights-with-your-iphone-aurora-borealis/ https://www.nightcapcamera.com/aurora-photography-photograph-the-northern-lights-on-your-iphone-with-nightcap/ (This one uses an app called NightCap and is approx $2.99 As @Robert_1979 has said, a tripod or at least some method of holding the camera as still as possible is a must for a long exposure.

I doubt you would gain any benefit from trying to sharpen that image, the trees are almost like they have been posterised.

Depends which app you are in or should I say which persona in which app you are in. To scatter bitmap symbols or any raster graphic in a brush you will need to use the Pixel Persona and raster brushes in Affinity Designer, else use Affinity Photo's Photo Persona and raster brushes. The raster brushes have a dynamics tab and you can set X and Y scatter there, as well as rotation etc, you can also add sub brushes so brushes within brushes.

I think the way to do it is either an AI file or PDF but the results can be a bit clumsy and it may take a bit of trial and error to get vectors into Motion correctly. Screenshot of Apples Motion app, the instagram icon was exported from Affinity Designer v2 as a PDF for export, under the more settings I unchecked rasterise: and set it to Nothing.