firstdefence

Hi, in Photoshop if I select View > Proof Setup > Working CMYK I can turn on the Gamut Warning and then Photoshop shows me the same greying as in Affinity Photo. Affinity Photo Photoshop CC2018 I don't think this is coincidence. Using sRGB disables the Gamut Warning option in Photoshop. Also could you be more specific about the paper ICC profile as there are a number of Rag options and do you know what printer the lab is using?

Welcome to the forum. Its a good idea to put what you are using, what Platform/Operating System you're on and a screenshot of the app you are using always helps. You may be trying to select from an image layer, if so right click on that image layer and choose Rasterise, then try to use the Selection Tool.

I have to say the Affinity images are anything but attractive, that is an awful result.

Also a list of Plugins and whether they work or not: http://www.miguelboto.com/affinity/photo/plugins-support/

Whatever you create with Affinity is yours to do with as you please, obviously as your manager I'd take a 15% cut but barring that your good to go

In Preferences what do you have on the Performance Tab. Example:

I think the OP means like this. Peeka boo.afdesign (saved with history)

There are Camera's that have after shot refocus capabilities, but they don't particularly work very well: https://petapixel.com/2017/01/12/look-lytro-illum-camera-future-failed/

But depending upon the ICC profile applied to the image the grey would read differently, I'm not sure R:72 G:70 B:72 is the correct reading if the image is exposed correctly I would expect it to be more than that. So an approximate reading of R:128 G:128 B:128 or a bit higher depending on the ICC profile used on the image. That image looks dull, dark and out of focus to me.

@LenC Wouldn't the Channel Mixer Adjustments Filter work for you? I'm just reading up on Dan to get a fast forward on your questions.

Would be beneficial to see an example of what it should look like over what Affinity Photo can produce.

Hey, I'm someone lol!

For anyone that runs Photoshop as well as Affinity Photo here is a link to his Picture Postcard Workflow Panel See the link for Videos in my sig, and scroll down to the Channels section... or use find (Press ⌘ + F and type 'channel')

yes that would be cool, I made a suggestion to the company.

Here are some 4 panel CD jackets I use. 4 Panel CD Folder Roll Fold.pdf 4 Panel CD Folder Double Parallel Style.pdf 4 Panel CD Accordion Folder.pdf 4 Panel CD Gatefold Cover (8 pages).pdf 4 Panel CD Gatefold Folder.pdf CD Traycard (Inlay).pdf CD Traycard Inside with tray position.pdf

If you type into Affinity designer help "Path' you get a better list than if you type 'Paths" Also search for Pen Tool and also Curves. Also check out the tutorials linked in my sig that Affinity have created.

I can remember waiting for a slot machine game to load on a ZX82 spectrum and it squealed away for 17 mins before failing to load, so we had to do it again lol I remember selling the Commodore 64 from Dixons and literally a sale every 2 mins at Christmas, every time I sold one I was entered into a raffle, I won in excess of 200 bottles of wine and I don't drink alcohol Re Mice, back in the day, when I was on windows, I used a Logitech mouse, I agree totally that a mouse is a very personal thing and that mouse fit my hand like it had been made for it. Like kaffeeundsalz, I bought a couple of spares because once you hit that sweet spot you just don't want to change. When mine died I buried it lol!

With such graphics and fine lines I use a vector app to get it as sharp as possible and export as an svg. black_replacement_1.afdesign black_replacement_1.svg

From what I have read, it was Kodak that effectively cocked it up in the 1970's and omitted the info that "the camera should be opened half a stop when using their grey card" bringing it more in line with the 12-14% so from then on photographers were actually using the grey card incorrectly informed, later on Kodak put the "open half a stop" info back into their instructions but I doubt people actually read the instructions and just start to take a reading from an 18% card and that's it. The highlighted info was originally omitted: http://www.silverbird24.com/shop/media/files_public/trwtjbbcr/1903061.pdf which is a 2007 instruction manual, the info was put back in 2006 or thereabouts.

sRGB has a smaller colour swatch compared to Adobe RGB but sRGB has a brighter colouring hence the "blushing" Wouldn't it be better to set the camera to sRGB and eliminate the Translation away from Adobe RGB to sRGB that way you fix the "blushing" in ON1 RAW or actually on the camera. Or just keep everything in Adobe RGB. and keep the image slightly muted compared to sRGB.

That's pretty much as I understand it, So at best it's a ball-park guide.

I always thought the 18% grey card was a myth and most camera's aren't actually set to 18% they are bias towards 12-14% ish anyway. I use the threshold adjustment to find the hotspot.

~If workarounds didn't exist the world would fall apart

Or if you don't want to get to the end of the raw? you can press and hold shift while pressing the return key like this.

Its the white that makes the grey look darker, you could try creating a rectangle with white and changing its opacity to about 60% then lock the layer. and just turn it off when you're ready to export. its a bit of a trick on the eyes, it makes the transparency look faded. No fade layer With a 60% white fade layer