NotMyFault

Hi, On W10 and with AP 1.0.0.932, i get several strage observations: Blend ranges give strange results. i tried to limit the recolor on one or two channels, e.g. by reducing red channel participation to zero. The result leads always to no recolor at all.This might be by design, but then the GUI shuld give a hint, e.g. only allowing to adjust master, and no individual channels. The Blend range dialog appears in the middle of the screen first. But when i try to move it, it goes straight to the top, and cannot removed from the top. Might be related (side effect) to the LG / DELL OnScreen Control Performance with OpenCL aktive is poor, much slower than without OpenCL. I have a capable GTX 1080, new driver, etc. Photo becomes totally laggy, sometimes hanging, often need to wait several seconds for every mouse click. rainbow.afphoto

What do the experts say: add a curves adjustment, select the alpha channel select the color picker Should the picker select the alpha or the lightness value to find which part of the curve to ajust? In my experiments, it selected the lightness, which might be not what you expect when modifying alpha. curves alpha picker.afphoto

It could depend heavily on the filters used. An excellent way to slow down AP is to have a RGB document, 16 or 32 bit color depth, and the use adjustmenst like curves, but using the LAB color space in the filter. After 3 filters of this kind Photo will freeze, even on big gaming PCs. Most affected is Windows, Apple both Mac and iPad are much less, as the GPU / HW acceleration works for Apple at least. This might change with AP 1.9 (on Windows able to use HW accell). Just an example: entering tone map persona (using same picture) takes 10x the time on Windows PC compared to iPad pro 2018, despite 8x CPU Ghz, 8x RAM, faster Samsung EVO SDD, and Nvidia GTX1080 wich is no slush, too. So please wait for Photo 1.9 to be released. In 1.8, GPU is mainly ignored / idling with Photo.

Hi all, The RAW file contains a good amount of sharpening, which was applied by the camera when it created the JPEG file. See scren capture below (sorry for german language). The noise reduction was set to 1, allmost nothing. With help of the (free for camera owners) Canon DPP software, you can always check those settings (and adjust them). Comparing Affinity Photo vs. in-camera JPEG (or Canon DPP processed) is always apples to oranges: All Canon HW + software adheres to the user-selected pre-sets like "picture style", which affects contrast, saturation, sharpening, filter effects like B&W, etc, plus the individual camera adjustments (exposure, white balance, noise reduction ...) In total contrast, AP is unable to read these information from the CR2 RAW file, and will apply completely different settings based on "Develop Assistent" and user preferences. This always leads to completely different results for JPEG files processed from the 100% identical RAW files, between the Canon HW/SW and Affinity SW. Next, Affinity uses its own pre-sets for JPEG exports regarding quality, re-sampling etc. To sum up: The only way to get "Canon" like JPEG from CR2 files is to process them first with Canon DPP (its free), then export to TIFF16. You can then start your creative work in Affinity with opening the TIFF16., and later export as JPEG. If you directly open the CR2 RAW, you might get good results, too, but never ever a results which is directly comparable to canon JPEGs. One (remote) option would be to create a totally "flat" canon picture style (based on "neutral"), upload this to the camera with help of Canon picture style editor, and leave all camera settings to "0" like exposure, white balance etc. Nobody wants to work like this. My intentions is not to blame anybody, only to explain why you cannot compare Canon out-of-camera JPEG with affinity Photo developed JPEG. I have seen many threads lately, mostly assuming export issues with noise or sharpening. There is nothing wrong in Affinity. The only "fault" of affinity is that it ignores the individual settings contained in the CR2 files.

You can't. Alternative options for pixel layers (no one is what you expect): Add snapshot. This allows you to restore the layer at a later time (if you are able to detect that you need to) Create a copy of the layer, and paste it into another file, and save that file, to be able to restore the layer Create a new file from the layer as explained in no 2. Place the new document into the original file, and delete the old layer. The "placed" file is a image document, which is protected against any change (except rasterizing). Again, i know none of these alternatives will match your expectations. At least i tried

Hi Federico, could you do me (us) a favor: Some Canon cameras are able to develop a CR2 to JPEG in camera (e.g. my 80D). If this function is available on your 6D, could you please do so and provide us the resulting JPEG? This will be the ultimate benchmark.

In the current version, there is no save button. The exposure settings is already applied "live". Just click the "x" in the upper right to close the box, or select a different layer in the layer panel. If you do not want the settings to aplly, click on "delete" or delete the adjustment layer.

Canon offers a "highlight priority" profile, but this serves a different purpose to protect the highligths (not the shadows) by tweaking the gamma curve.

As a canon user, i used Canon DPP to develop your RAW file into TIF and JPEG. Then, i compared this with a JPEG export of affinity photo. I tried to use the same settings in both apps: Disabled any lens correction Disabled Vignette correction Used default settings for all sliders kept the "Natural" profile of the photo in DPP To my surprise, the jeg result differs strongly between DPP and AP: The DPP jpeg does not show any banding The AP jpeg whows strong banding This might be caused by the contrast / sharpening settings you have chosen in-camera (see below). Please have a look by yourself - i've added the files as seperate layers into one AP file. My conclusion would be that AP produced JPEGs that are inferior to Canon DPP. In my 6 year usage of DPP, DPP always produced results which are extremely close to JPEGs produced in camera. As my Canon cameras are able to create CR2 and JPG in parallel, i can always compare in-camera JPG with those processed from CR2 by DPP. These match perfectly. In contrast, i never got a matching JPG in Affinity Photo, whatever i tried. Exposure, white balance, contrast are way off from in-camera JPG and DPP result. And i experimented a lot with "Develop Assistant" settings. Current settings are: It would be good if Affinity staff could provide guidance what settings should be used to get JPGs as similar as in-camera (or by DPP). I would expect some differences in principle: AP always ignores the "picture style" information which contains the essential data for the RAW develepment: - lens corrections to be applied (or not) - all basic settings like exposure, contrast: -4 in your picture , sharpening: +3 in your picture, saturation - noise reduction - black and white style Color profile: Adobe RGB in your case _MG_9817.afphoto

You may give the "Web Safe Dither" filter a try, i personally never used this. https://affinity.help/photo/en-US.lproj/index.html?page=pages/Filters/filter_webSafeDither.html?title=Web Safe Dither

Color banding is mainly caused by insufficient color depth, e.g. 8 bit in JPEG. The best option would be to use an export format that supports >8bit, e.g. 16 bit TIFF or PNG, or HEIF (not yet available in Affinity Photo for export) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colour_banding https://affinity.help/photo/en-US.lproj/index.html?page=pages/Appendix/fileformat.html?title=Supported file formats

In windows, you can use the AltGr key instead of Alt key. i found this in an older post in this thread

tested again with OpenCL deactivated: works as expected. Issue seems to be OpenCL related.

Hi, i got a corrupted file while using the patch tool. The file is private, if you can provide a private upload link i can share it with affinity staff only. Used 5 TIF files with perspective filter and masks used a pixel layer atop for final tweaking with patch tool when the beta stumbled. Luccily, a have a stored version before and after the crash. As soon as i swicth from pacth tool to hand/move tool the file ets corrupted.

From my view, 32GB was too little even for an iPhone 3 years ago. Depending on the number of Apps and documents, you will quickly become out of disk space. Offloading documents is tedious and time consuming. When staying at home with good WIFI, this might work. But while travelling with expensive mobile network it felt like a nightmare for me. Running >90% disk usage may degrade your performance, too. Another topic is RAM. On my iPad 2017 (2 GB RAM) Affinity Photo and other Apps crash often, even with 128 GB storage & lots of free space. To sum up: at least 128 GB memory, and a model with 3 GB RAM.

Hi, in Affinity Photo up to 1.8 and 1.9.823 RC4 beta, the info pannel has only 8 bit resolution (or even worse 1% steps). I want to request having option (default when document with 16 / 32 bit color depth is used) to get 16/32 bit information. Thank you.

Hi Dominic, you may apply a gradient fill of type radial to the (formerly) black ball, using a lighter shade in the middle. Regards, Timo

Hi Kermit, you could use „feather“ from the select menu or by shortcut. Or press „refine selection“. please have a look into the tutorial section of this forum, or the help menu. Regards, Timo

Hi 0815, schön das es bei Dir funktioniert hat, und super video! Gruß, Timo

Hi Cliff, depends on your budget. Affinity could use multi cores for some of its functions, but most are still restricted to one core. Select a CPU with highest single-cpu performance, 4 cores enough, more cores rarly of benefit for Affinity (but maybe for other apps). AMD or Intel ok, i personally would prefer AMD. RAM as much as you can afford, at east 32 GB, more if feasable. If you have files of 50 MB, Affinity will require much more as the internal format weights performance over space consumption. Depending on color format (8, 16, 32 bit) it could go beyond reasonable limits. Strictly recommend to pre-process RAW files and export as TIFF with 16 bit color depth - these files could be much larger than your raw files. Stacking RAWs could work, or go crazy (e.g. white balance, noise, ...) depending on type of RAW. Graphics does not matter so much in the moment. Photo 1.9 will be the first release to support GPU on windows, no advise possible at this time (GTX 1080 and later will be fine). Use bigegst and fastes SDD you can afford (1 TB at least). Avoid having any spinning HDD in PC or atatched on USB if possible - sleep mode and 10-20 seconds spin-up time will drive you crazy. If you have any Windows PC at hand, please try how many of your raw files you can process with given RAM, and what happens if you run into a limit (e.g. RAM): does Affinity still work, slows donw drastically, or fails completely. If you could provide a download link for 50 example files, i could test if it works with my 16 core 32 GB RAM PC. As a general hint: Apple MAC might work much better for your (high end) requirement, as the MAC version does support GPU & Apple RAW engines, currently (1.8) unavailable on windows Timo (personal post, not related to Affinity team)

https://player.vimeo.com/video/131644949

old_photo.afphoto

I spend 15 minutes: cropped to the picture copied various parts (flattened) and the moved / resized / adjusting brightness to match left leg to fill in right leg after rotate, adjust size & brightness rigth wall copied 2 times to fill missing part copy of black cloth to fill in lower missing part below another copy of left leg to simulate socks used masks to soften areas between patches used a pixel layer and healing brush to further soften some areas used a dust & scratch removal to hide scratches. apllied mask to anly apply to areas with scratches to avoid overall softening merged visible used photo persona and "details refinemend with 50% / 50% to improve detail & micro contrast used levels adjustment to increase overal contrast You could easily spend additional hours for fine-tuning and a more thorow process to gain better result Have fun Timo

In addition, i would suggest trying to get a better scan: store photo beyond a flat surface and at least 1kg weight for several days to flatten the photo scan only the actual photo size instead of A4 / letter increase scan resolution to maximum available (e.g. 1200 DPI) if possible, adjust scan settings to maximize contrast (black to white), for scan use 16 bit color depth, use tiff format (not jpeg), no compression scan may take hours and require 100 megabytes with these settings, but you can export the result as jpeg later from affinity and get much better results. if you are using an epson scanner and epson scan software, select „professional“ mode, scan a preview, and adjust curves, levels etc before starting actual scan. Do not use windows scan app or twain.

Hi Rob, some basic techniques can be found in this tutorial. Regards, Timo