Ron P.

As far as I can tell, all the brushes in Designer Persona are vector brushes. Double-click on any of them or press the more button. The dialog that opens only provides options for the stroke. Painting with them gives you a Curve layer, not pixel. That said, if you are in the Pixel Persona of Designer then yes you will have some pixel brushes.

Finally power restored, so here's my short video showing how I repaired the closed eyes. Open both images, using File>Open. This opens 2 separate documents/images in Photo, which is what we want when using Global Source. Then I zoomed in on both, ensuring the zoom level was the same. Reasoning is the Aligned Setting Checked. In the Source Image, the image where the sample is taken from, Select the Clone Stamp Tool. Go to the area where you want to sample, in this case the eyes, Alt+ Click to set the sample point. Go to the Context Toolbar (along the top), to the right, and press the Add Global Source button. The Source dialog window will open if not already open. You will see a thumbnail with the image file name. Change to the Destination image, the one you want to replace the eyes. Add a blank pixel layer above your image layer. This is for non-destructive operation. If you mess up, like I did several times prior to getting this final recording, you just delete the pixel layer and add a new on. Select the Clone Stamp Tool if not already selected. Go to the Source Dialog Window, select the Source Thumbnail. Photo will use the Source image to clone onto this (destination) image. Carefully align what is showing in the Clone Icon by your cursor with the image. Drag/paint the sampled source onto this one. DONE As you can see, you're able to really control how much you replace, thus limiting the amount of additional touch-up you may need to do. I've found this method of remove/replace to be very, very powerful, and fast once you do it a few times. I've used PS in the past, and in my opinion, A Photo runs circles around it. 2021-05-16 12-31-36.mp4

On my phone now, no sooner did I complete my previous post, I lost electricity. Hopefully will not be the usual 4 hrs before they restore it.😣

What operation are you referring to? The operation Woosven demonstrated? Or the entire operation of replacing the face? I downloaded your images and using the Clone Tool and the setting of Use Global as the source, was able to just replace the facial parts, mainly the eyes and very near parts, in less then 2 minutes. Yes, in order to do that there's some prerequisites. Know exactly what and how much needs to be replaced. Know your tool(s) needed to complete your task. If your tool(s) are capable of performing your task, but you don't quite understand how, then be willing, able to invest a little time in researching and learning how to use the tool(s). Don't expect your tool(s) to do all the work automatically. Even though with AI it appears they can, sometimes it's just not going to be enough. Give me a few minutes, keeping my fingers crossed due to a storm currently ongoing, I'll get a short video showing what I done.

I can confirm that here. The macro is recording a value less than what is input.

Works fine for me. I can't try with HA, since my GPU doesn't qualify to use it.

Are they RAW files? If so it would be best to develop them first using the Develop Persona or if you have another app such as Canon DPP, exporting to Tiff, or JPG. Open the images in Affinity Photo using File>New Stack.

Welcome to the forums @rabirius, For creating sharp-edged selections try using the Pen Tool. Once you've completed outlining with the pen tool, in the left side of the Context Toolbar for the Pen Tool, you're presented with 2 options, Mask or Selection. Choosing the latter will provide a sharp selection.

@Jaffa, First I confirmed what you found, double-clicking on a shape selects the Node tool. However, I then watched his video and what he does is selects the Move tool first, then double-clicks on a shape, AND points out that doing so selects the node tool. So yes the correct behavior seems to be, when double-clicking on a shape, will cause the node tool to be selected.

Can you provide a crash report for Serif Developers to look at? Affinity Store version - Go to %AppData%\Affinity\Photo\1.0\CrashReports\reports Microsoft Store version - Go to %AppData%\Affinity\Photo\1.0 (Store)\CrashReports\reports You can acccess the AppData folder by pressing the Windows key + R on your keyboard and then just type %AppData% It might also be worth throwing in the log.txt which can be found root of the 1.0 folder.

Same here, I can't confirm this, with either tablet or mouse.

Welcome to the forums, Crashing as in just the App closing or your system crashes (BSOD) type? Big difference on what's causing the crash. Please go here and provide as much info as possible... https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/forum/71-bug-reporting/

Welcome to the forums @David Trotter, Please go here and provide as much info as asked, so someone can provide meaningful help. https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/forum/71-bug-reporting/

Ok, but not what we get before a character is typed, which is what I'm referring to. That's what's different. I know it's no big deal, but it does give the appearance of the wrong tool selected. Screencap showing what I'm referring to. 2021-05-11 15-46-09.mp4

I'm thinking it might be, but I couldn't find any mention of it in the notes. To me it seemed like the Text Frame Tool was stuck, and I couldn't get the Artistic Text Tool. I went completely through all the settings I could find in the beta, comparing it to the retail. My current retail (in both AD AND AP), still show the single line.

In my previous versions as well as the retail versions, it's not this way. That's why it caught my attention.

Don't know if this is a bug, if so it's present in the current Designer Beta too. The Artistic Tool creates a box/frame, when drawing out for adding text. The appearance is the same as if using the Text Frame Tool. Prior to this when releasing your mouse, you get the single cursor blinking line, instead of a box with the control points around it.

Welcome to the forums @Pelagija, Please provide more details to help us provide a meaningful solution. How did you open it? Did you use the Edit in Photo option within LR? If so, LR will create an derivative (TIFF, PSD,) based on the development done in LR. What file format are you using to pass the file to Affinity Photo? How are you going about this? Still opens the edited version indicates you are still passing the file from within LR. To open the RAW file (what RAW format?) you need to open it outside of LR. This can be done a few ways, Within Affinity Photo, File>Open then navigate to the file on your system, select and open it. You can Drag-n-Drop it into Photo, Double-Clicking on it from Explorer (Windows) or Finder (Mac). That is provided your system is set to open that file format using Affinity Photo. You can also choose File>Place in Affinity Photo. Regardless, this will open the file into the Develop Persona in Affinity Photo. If you're not passing it from LR, you must be selecting the file (TIFF, PSD, ect) created by LR, which would have the LR Development. Technically it's not possible to see a RAW file, since they are instructions, data, that need to be demosiac, processed to see. Without going into great detail on that, I'll say again you must be opening the derivative created by LR when passing it to Affinity Photo. If you choose to open and process/develop the file in Affinity Photo, use the File>Open command inside of Affinity Photo.

They stick until you change them, or have to reinstall the app. There's a checkbox in the Assistant Manager, up at the top, Alert when assistant takes action. Uncheck if you don't like it popping up. Unfortunately I don't think it's mentioned in any of Affinity's tutorials. So right now we just have the Help file.. https://affinity.help/photo/en-US.lproj/pages/DesignAids/AssistantManager.html Just done a YouTube search and found a tutorial done by Olivia Sarikas, just on the Assistant Manager

Shouldn't need a macro for those. Just set them in the Assistant Manager. You can set it to add them as Child Layers, instead of on a new layer.

I got my terminology backward(or forward)??? 😄

I think Serif should seriously consider backward version saving. There are competitors, like Paintshop Pro that has had this ability for decades. I just checked my current version, PSP 2020, and it provides the option to save to prior versions going clear back to PSP5 😯 That said, since like other apps that are forward compatible, opening an older version in a current one is no problem. However, for those that are using the app professionally and may have collaborated on projects, this could be very important. A few years/versions later, you're sent a file that was created in said earlier version for changes. That person then needs the file back, BUT does not have the current version. Being able to save the file to the earlier version would make working together much easier, less headaches.

Welcome to the forums, This is the wrong place to post feature or product requests. Serif has a section for that. https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/forum/55-feedback-for-affinity-photo-on-desktop/ Also the request has been made numerous times. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Lightroom+replacement+site%3Aforum.affinity.serif.com&t=ffab&ia=web

Welcome to the forums @TAB, Go to File>Open Navigate to a RAW file, select it, then press Open. This will open in the Develop Persona. Once through making adjustments in the Develop Persona, press the Develop Button, found in the upper left. This applies the adjustments you made, and then opens into the Edit Persona. RAW images must be Demosiac / Developed, because until then, it's just data. Links to a couple of Affinity Tutorials for RAW development. RAW Discover Develop (Legacy) The newest tutorials on Serif's website, RAW Development https://affinity.serif.com/en-us/tutorials/photo/desktop/video/331997643/

Have you tried using the Selection Brush instead of the lasso or a selection marquis? I played around and found the Selection Brush to work better, especially since the color and contrast between your letters and background is good. Use the Selection Brush to select each letter or word, by clicking inside them. It starts out with New, then after the first selection automatically changes to Add. Then go to the Refine Selection. I unchecked the Matte box. You can make any adjustments if needed. At the bottom, the drop-down menu, set it to either one of the 2 last choices, New Layer or New Layer with Mask. I just used New Layer. Why? Because those two options use Color Decontamination, where the others do not. Now you can move them around without the smearing and smudging.