Ron P.

Click on the More button and on the General tab, what is the Accumulation setting?

Affinity Photo has not, and is not capable of hijacking files. Your operating system has simply made the assumption. That could be based on what app you've been using to open those files. What OS are you running, Mac or Windows? In Windows, simply right-click on one of your RAW files, Choose Properties, then in the next dialog window, to the right of Opens With, press the Change button. You will be presented with a long list, depending on how many apps you have installed that are able to open RAW files, to choose from. Select the one you want. I can not help if you're on a Mac, as I don't use them.

So turning a trapezium so it looks like a slope would be easier than a trapazoid? Read what you just wrote. The OP is asking how to change a square to a trapezium, so he can use it for that. I suggest there's not need to change the square when there's a trapezium shape tool already. https://byjus.com/maths/trapezium/

Hi @Flatback, welcome to the forums. In both Photo an Designer, there is a Trapezoid shape. It's in the same shape flyout as the Rectangle, and other shapes. Just click and hold the shape, I think the default is the rectangle, and you should see it. 2022-03-20 08-20-51.mp4

Try this, Macro will record Menu commands, not right-click, but main menu commands. Place your vector shape above your image in the layer stack. Go to Layer>Rasterize to Mask. However macro does not recording moving layers, so your mask will be above the image, not nested.

Welcome @ronwise to the forums, In the Assistant Manager, there's two settings that are probably disabled. The Tone Curve and Export Bias. Enable those, and your RAW images should open lighter. From the Affinity Photo Online Help

Ok, I stand corrected, I was thinking along the lines of increasing the height to match the length without distortion. However if the image is shot using a anamorphic lens, then the multiplication factor should be that of the lens, and 1.33 is common, or 2x.

Wouldn't it be just as easy to use the 4:3 aspect ratio crop preset? Anamorphic is 16:9 or 1.77, and 4:3 is 1.33.

You do not need to increase the stroke width. Simply click on the NO icon, circle with diagonal line through it.

What do you mean by second extension? If you want to change the canvas size, and not keep the aspect ratio, then click on the padlock to unlock the ratio. Type in the amount you want to increase, hit enter, then resize.

Your Welcome

Yes, as a matter of fact I did. Moving the nodes on the color wheel, fine-tunes the range of shift within those. For example in your case, after selecting the Red Hue, and then moving the Saturation to 100%, moving those nodes only make subtle changes, since you have not actually done any shifting. You need to experiment, with moving each one of those, then using the Hue Shift slider see what changes they make or don't make. 2022-03-13 10-42-21.mp4

Welcome to the forums @once2work, There are several available and you're the only one that can say what will work for you. 12 Best Lightroom Alternatives (Free & Paid) Shotkit website 5 Best Alternatives for Mac (Guiding Tech) Lightroom Replacement Programs for Mac (DuckDuck Go Search) I went through this same scenario about 5 yrs ago when Adobe changed LR from perpetual to subscription. Thankfully I can still use LR on my Windows 10 machine. So take some time and research these. There's pros and cons for each.

Welcome to the forums @Mark Baker, By curlicues do you mean Flourish? Do you already have some ready to use? If not you can find numerous doing a search.. Graphic Flourish I apologize, I don't use Publisher, if that's the Affinity App you're using, so can't provide any meaningful help there. If not Publisher, which one?

Welcome to the forums @Rich Laubhan, This sounds like an issue that will happen occasionally. Check the File Type entry, found in the lower-right of the Open Dialog window. Sometimes it gets changed, and will show .txt file type. If it does just change it, type in the file type(s) that's in your photo library, or if there's a drop-down menu, open it and change it to All Documents. 2022-03-13 01-44-30.mp4

Wow... 😲 , I've been using Designer and Photo for about 5yrs and never realized this. That's just slicker than a greased pig 😄

I think this is a bug. I could not locate, using forum and Google searches, any previous reports of this. The text parts and whole text line, disappears when aligning using the Align in the Toolbar. Steps to Recreate Create new document. Size, DPI, is immaterial. Using the Artistic Text Tool, type some text. Using the Align tool in the toolbar, choose to Align to Center, then Align to Middle of Spread. Part of and then the whole text line disappears. It seems like it's masked. However I'm thinking it might be a redraw issue. I can move the text and it appears. Attached screen recording showing this in Designer. I've also tested this in Photo with the same results. 2022-03-11 12-51-53.mp4

Welcome to the forums @Stony Ground, What steps did you take when printing? What were the settings you used? I'm not sure how a printer would translate that you wanted a 13x6 in print to just a 4x6 without having those dimensions entered. You should be able to print a 13x6 image with whatever DPI you want, and the physical dimensions should still be 13x6. Here's a video I came across recently from Pix Imperfect, a PS tutorial content provider, explaining the PPI, DPI, and sizes. PPI vs DPI

Yes the adjustments found under the More Button allow you to create brushes that are only limited by your imagination. In the More dialog, there's General, Dynamics, Texture, and Sub Brushes. Explore the Dynamics, Texture, and Sub Brushes to really get a look your wanting. The Spray & Spatter Brushes have 7 brush presets that are Airbrushes. You can start with one of them and change some of the settings found in the other tabs. What I found is the Finest Spray Rade brush gives a soft airbrush to start with. Maybe change the X and Y Scatter in the Dynamics panel to make the spray wider or narrower. Change the Accumulation, which is like Opacity, or Hardness. You can change the how the each of the settings are applied Dynamically by Pressure or Random or several other possibilities. Have a look at the Affinity Photo Online Help for Modifying Brushes for an explanation.

Welcome to the forums @brenski, There is a way, using Presets to have the UI as you want it to be when you launch AP each time. Arrange your UI, float what you need to, or all, and arrange them as you want them to appear. Go to View>Studio Presets. Add Preset This will be the UI layout you just set up. You will be prompted to Name the Preset. Once done it will continue to use this, until you change to another Preset, which you will have to create, or back to the default. Customizing Workspace, (AP online help) The windowed image can not be set to a fixed window size.

I was typing my reply, which was similar to what v_kyr posted. You will not see that information until you refresh or after saving the file.

That may or may not be true. It depends on the license. You can license your copyrighted work in numerous ways, and with whatever restrictions you choose. One such restriction that is common when licensing for commercial purposes, is the file can not be copied and/or distributed to yet other people. For example you purchase a license to use the item, photo or writings, so you can make posters and flyers, and you will profit by doing so. The copyright holder may, and probably will, allow that to happen for a specified time period, and those are the only things that the item can be used for. So if you then produce copies of the file given to you by license, and distribute them in any other way, to anyone that is not specified in the license agreement, you're violating the terms of the license, and can be held liable. Now suppose if you're not allowed by the license to produce flyers or posters, but just digital images for use on your website. You then produce fliers and posters using a printer or print service. Is the owner of the copyright able to sue the printer manufacturer or print service for violating the license granted to the person that purchase it? The printer or print service is fully able to reproduce whatever is put to it. They do not know the item given to them, is being done so in violation of any license agreement. The person wanting the copies is using them in an "illegal" manner. If you agree, the copyright holder can, then you also agree that someone injured in a car crash can sue the car manufacturer since they provided the means for the driver of the car that crashed into them. Now all that said, here in the US, there's a federal law that says the manufacturers can not be held liable, can not be sued. Without that law,(I don't recall the specific law off the top of my head, but has been in the news due to a certain faction wanting to destroy one of our God given rights), one could. There's words in the legal world that have a tremendous weight, words like knowingly and willfully, and intent. So what's being discussed here in this thread, Serif's product removing, allowing copyright content to be used in an illegal manner. Serif would have to knowingly, willfully or with intent, wrote their code to do that. While it might be able to, does not mean that is what Serif intended it to do, and they did not know the code would do that. So if people are using their product in a way that does, they are not liable. The counter to that, is if they do know, and fail to correct it, they could be held liable.

Affinity Photo is not able to read Canon's Picture Styles. In fact I think there's very few editors that can. Canon does provide Digital Photo Professional, and I know Lightroom, are both able to read and use Picture Styles.

One other setting to try on the Sharpen Tool is changing the Mode from Clarity to Harsh or Unsharp Mask.. Clarity applies a real subtle sharpening. You also may need to zoom in to near or at 100% to see if it's making a difference. Finally, to have a comparison, try duplicating the layer, then applying the sharpen or blur. Now to see if there's anything being applied, simply uncheck/check the layer your working on to see a comparison to your original (bottom layer). It's a real quick before/after viewing.

Try checking in the ~/Library/Application Support/Affinity Photo/autosave folder to see if there's any files. If so I think you can safely delete them. The autosave folder is where Affinity saves those files. I think sometimes they don't get removed once the file has been recovered and saved normally.