Ron P.
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Posts posted by Ron P.
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27 minutes ago, N.P.M. said:
Ehh, the tool in the faq is also applicable for windows 10.
I seen that, but when I looked there was no link to download it. Other than that it talked about using command line. Not worth it to me.
You can go to Advanced Options and it provides a longer time period. I have mine set to pause until 11/23/2022.
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5 minutes ago, RedSnapper said:
I AM USING WINDOWS 10.
Did you check to see if you had any of those windows updates installed? I didn't think I did, until I tried to replicate an issue, and the app (Designer) crashed. Check to see if which and when updates were installed.
Now to make matters worse, with Win10, we do not have the built in ability to hide updates once we uninstall. So what happens is that a short time later the update is reinstalled by MS. The only workaround I've found is to pause and set the time for checking for updates back as far as it allows.
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Welcome to the forums
Go to the View menu, and make sure Show Context Toolbar and Show Toolbar are checked. The Develop button is part of a Context Toolbar.
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Welcome to the forums,
Here's one possible solution. I don't know if it works.
Preview CR2 RAW files in Windows 7
That's for the older Canon CR2 format. IF you have a newer EOS camera, one that uses the CR3 format, I think you're out of luck. You probably need to think about upgrading your OS to at least Win10 or 11.
Do you have Canon's DPP? They provide it free for their cameras. It is an excellent RAW developer for their proprietary format.
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I think this is what you're referring to. Once you register/sign in, it no longer appears, until you sign out. You access it by clicking the My Account icon located on the far right of the toolbar.
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Welcome to the forums
Are you using a mouse or pen tablet? Those brush settings work best using a pen tablet. The drop-down menu that's labeled Pressure, located below the sliders, is where the twist or thinning of the stroke is made. Click on the icon to the right of Pressure. You'll see various Profile Presets. You should see a graph, that resembles the Curves adjustment. You can click to add nodes, and drag them. When you do, watch the preview to the top. It will change to reflect the changes you're making.
By the looks of your screenshot, you should be able to paint with that brush and it should give you the twist, unless your using a mouse. Using a mouse you can not apply pressure. You can change the Pressure to Velocity, and it should do about the same when using a mouse.
https://affinity.help/designer/en-US.lproj/pages/Tools/tools_Brush.html
https://affinity.help/designer/en-US.lproj/pages/Painting/modifyStrokes.html
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34 minutes ago, enginestar said:
Is there a a super quick way of doing or is it a lengthy task?
No super-quick way if you're wanting it to look real and natural.
34 minutes ago, enginestar said:I see videos that are 20 min long!
I don't fancy sitting through such a long video.
It's going to take investing some time to learn. The most difficult part is getting a good selection of the hair. Then knowing what to do with it.
Super-quick will get you a cheesy look, like you just painted on your image.
Here's a good one to learn from
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Probably has to do with one of the Windows Updates..
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Welcome to the forums,
Where are you trying to download from? MAS or Serif's / Affinity store, your account? That error seems to be like one generated when connection to a server is lost, or very busy.
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Welcome to the forums,
Try checking to see if your text is using any partial pixels. Make sure you have the Transform studio open (View>Studio>Transform). Then select your text and look at the W, H, X & Y entries. They should be Integers, no numbers to the right of the decimal. If not, then change them, round up or down. Then export and see if that helps.
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I just managed to Export a PDF from CorelDraw (2017) and opened with Affinity Designer. All the text was still text.
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Try exporting from CorelDraw as SVG. In the SVG Export dialog, make sure to set it to export text as text.
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FWIW, I have a bunch of old camcorder video, shot with a Sony DC TRV120. They look nothing like those.
Screenshot from a frame from that camcorder.
EDIT:
I done some further digging and located some old footage, shot with a VHS camcorder. from those, I'd say add noise, and a slight blur, not much contrast would get you close.
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Since the HA was already disabled and you're experiencing crashing, have you tried enabling it? However, you're GPU must meet the specs for HA. FWIW, mine does not, so it does not allow me to enable it. You have posted any info on your PC. What GPU are you using? Do you work off of internal HDD? Are they spinning platters, or SSD? Serif recommends to work off of internal drives, not external, network (NAS), or internet (OneDrive, iCloud and the like).
5 hours ago, Chris26 said:I just noticed my RAM usage in preferences/Performance says 4096 Mb when I only have 4000mb - could this be a problem, should I lower it to say 3800 Mb?
Are you sure about those numbers? 4,000Mb is only 4 gig. It would difficult to run most any current photo, video, apps and all other things that a pc may be running in the background.
I have 32gig of RAM, which is roughly 32,000Mb, and have been running the Ram usage limit around 29,000 (29 gig). I could and probably should go a lot lower, since I don't do any real intense work with AP or AD.
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It works however, unless you experiment, work with the sliders to get a feel how they affect each other, it does seem like the filter is picky.
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31 minutes ago, R C-R said:
I only ask because I do not have any hazy photos of my own to test with
Here's a couple of mine. Great Smokey Mountains.
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What video editing software are you using?
Are you using a screenshot of a frame from your video for the thumbnail, or using an image not in your video?
Have you tried closing your video editing software first? Does AP still crash?
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20 hours ago, grahamsmythe said:
Bit of a shame that CMD J has already been taken, so I'll have to use something else.
Why not change it? CMD (or CTL in Windows) is not a hard-wired command. Just change the Go to Page shortcut to CMD + J. Then for the Duplicate Selection, which CMD+J is the default, change it to CMD+ Page-up. Then you will have the shortcut you're used to.
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Are you wanting to move/relocate the selection without affecting the pixels? Wanting to copy the pixels in the selection?
Is the layer locked? It will have the padlock on the right side of the layer in the layers panel. Click it or the padlock located at the top-right of the layers panel to unlock it. Then you can use the move tool to move the selection.
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Those end options are found in the Stroke Drop-down menu. Just my thinking, for the circle, I'd just use a Circle Shape without a fill. It seems the circle end for the line(stroke) gets a little fat.
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I think the tree getting darker is an illusion, due to the background being dark.
There's several ways to lighten up the tree a little. Apply a Curves, or Levels Adjustment to the tree. One quick trick when using a curves adjustment, is to change the Opacity for the Curves to 50%. This is in the lower-left of the Curves dialog window. It makes it easier to control when moving the points on the graph.
You could also Dodge the tree. I always use a non-destructive approach, by adding a blank pixel layer above the layer I want to dodge or burn. I change the blend mode of that pixel layer to Overlay. Select your paintbrush tool, make sure the colors are set to Black and White. Use a very low opacity and flow settings, of around 10%. Then paint over the tree (on the blank pixel layer) using White color to lighten. Black will darken.
It was said, and I used, a pixel layer filled with 50% grey for the dodge/burn, however learned that filling the layer was not necessary, the blank pixel layer does the same.
Problemas con tipografía
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
This is a known issue, please try this.