Butler To Cats

Place-and-hold two fingers on the canvas. Draw the shape with your Pencil or another finger.
Press-and-hold three fingers to get a constrained shape drawn from the centre (Rectangle tool draws a square, Ellipse tool draws a circle).
Works well in Designer, in Photo I found it worked better if I set touch to gestures only (gallery > Settings cogwheel icon > Tools > Touch for gestures only).

Vector Assets: Camouflage
Added some vector assets based on Camouflage consisting of:
1. Mesh (10)
2. Composites (7)
3. Textures 01 (10)
4. Branch (10)
5. Plants:Leaves (32)
6. Plant:Forms (11)
7. Textures 02 (10)

With the exception of Composites detailing has been removed.
samples as below:
Vector Assets Camouflage_01.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 02.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 03.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 04.pdf

Version 01: 6 categories and 43 Vector Assets in 6 Categories
Version 02: Categories and 90 vector Assets in 7 Categories
vectorAssets - Camouflage 01.zip
 
 
vectorAssets - Camouflage.zip

Hello,
here some styles, you may like...
Some of the styles are two layer based: Glass, SwampCamping and SanFrancisco.
( As soon as I have more time, I will write an additional tutorial. )
Have fun.

TextFX_05.afdesign
MartinsTextStyles1.afstyles

While 0,0,0 for black is correct for RGB (screen, additive) work, this would be incorrect for using CMYK, which is a printing (subtractive) standard.
RGB and CMYK have completely different uses and should not be compared. If you are not intending your output to go to print, do not use CMYK.
 
Printing a dark ("rich") black commercially usually requires a mix of the coloured (CMY) inks in addition to the K (black) ink in order to produce a darker black colour on paper than you can get using only black (K) ink, which will usually only show on paper as a dark grey (true black printed inks are very difficult to achieve in practice with wet ink, ignoring powder/laser ink which has different issues). This why the printing industry uses the term rich black rather than true black (although you might see CMYK 0,0,0,100 as "plain black" - something commercial print customers might not be satisfied with on paper).
With some papers (especially coated paper), producing a rich black on paper (without wetness problems) will require noticeably less than 100% K ink and a mix of the other C,M,Y inks.
 
This does not translate exactly to RGB on screen, but in practice the CMYK you are seeing as RGB 32, 32, 32 on screen will produce a darker ("rich") black on paper than CMYK 0,0,0,100 (because of the practical lack of real-world true-black wet inks).
Exact mixes of CMYK for "rich black" on paper will vary according to printer, ink, and especially type of paper used (which is why CMYK swatches in software usually specify the paper type) - consult your commercial print expert.
 
As a subtractive (printing) process, the theoretically darkest mix with real-world ink would be CMYK 100,100,100,100 rather than CMYK 0,0,0,100 - however, in practice with real-world paper, this would be far too wet for the paper (with wet ink) and produces other issues with powder/laser ink. CMYK 100,100,100,100 is used for thin-line registration marks (the small marks and thin lines avoid the wetness problems) and is known as "registration black" - it will also show up any problems with CMYK alignment.
 
Software that uses  CMYK 0, 0, 0, 100 for printing "rich black" on paper (rather than "plain black") is telling lies about real-world printing conditions and real-world inks, and should stick to on-screen RGB where it is telling the truth.

TGA - a vintage lossless format with optional transparency.
Produces larger (less compressed) files than PNG.
Its main advantage is that it is an extremely simple format technically (I know, I've written code to support it, decades ago), making it easy for game programmers and others (e.g. raytracing, animation hobbyists) to write their own handling code, something that was particularly important in the early days of game design and graphics, as there were no (or very few) standard libraries available for image handling.
Still used in some legacy, open source, and home-made code for its simplicity, and often supported as "another lossless format with transparency" in commercial software that supports a very long list of image formats.
From the graphics user point of view (as opposed to the programmer), usually no real advantage over PNG in modern software.

If you want to talk to people, show off your work, or see other people's artwork, go to the forum (forum: place of public discussion).
You can have a forum account if you purchased your Affinity product through the Microsoft or Apple Mac stores (they do not share their customer information with Serif).
You might have a forum account even if you don't have an Affinity product, if you want to ask questions before purchasing.
Your forum account identifies you as an individual in the discussions, but is not linked to any purchases.
If you want to purchase something directly from Serif, or download your purchase, go to the Serif store (store: a shop, a place where merchandise is kept).
You will have a store account only if you have purchased something directly from Serif, and the email and password do not have to be the same as your forum account.
If you purchased your Affinity product through the Microsoft or Apple app stores, you will not have a Serif store account, but you might have a forum account.
For example, you might use a business email (for keeping your tax information separate) to purchase an Affinity product (store account) and a personal email for talking on the forum (forum account). Each account will have a different password.
Even if you use the same email for both, your store account and forum account will (probably) still have a different password (you could use the same password for both, but it is not a good security practice).

@DM1  Heh  I didn't realise it was an option, thank you!
Went looking for it (for other thread readers, Home/Gallery > cogwheel icon in top right = Preferences > General >  Automatically update help), and it was  turned on (I have delved through the Preferences before, but I did not remember that one).

I think the help file for iPad Designer is still' a work in progress'.  There are further updates to the latest photo beta Help file so Designer won't be far behind. Have you got auto update turned on for Help file?

After holding down the two finger modifier, if your next action is interpreted as a tap, you get polygon selection. If your next action is interpreted as contact-and-dragging, you get lasso selection. Need to be sure your Pencil doesn't bounce or your finger isn't tentative.
I must admit I prefer the on-screen keys:
Preferences > Interface > On-screen modifier keys: On > Done.
Select the object first with the Move tool then change to the Node tool, or alternatively select the object by tapping it with the Node tool. Click the little arrow to the right of the context-specific options at the bottom of the screen (I'm using a Mini, so possibly on larger screens this might not be necessary) - it reveals the Constrain and Ignore Snapping on-screen keys. When no nodes are selected, they have selection functions instead. For Lasso selection, hold a finger on the Ignore Snapping key and then drag a lasso selection with the Apple Pencil or your finger. Raise the Pencil or finger first (tends to be moderately intuitive as you've finished drawing your selection), then take your finger off the Ignore Snapping key. Notes: The Constrain key allows multiple cumulative rectangle node selection areas. Once you have dragged your selection, the keys do what their labels suggest.

Go back to the Home/Gallery. Tap the little question mark in the top right area.  In the top left search area, type in Move. From the quick results, tap to select Move Tool.  

Go back to the Home/Gallery. Tap the little question mark in the top right area.  In the top left search area, type in Move. From the quick results, tap to select Move Tool.  

@Pbernardon/Pascal, use a Recolour adjustment and adjust Saturation (intensity of output colour), Hue (which output colour), and Lightness (for increased fading).
Sepia is not a single preset, sepia formulations varied and the exact effect will depend on how you wish to replicate exposure to light, temperature, contact with covering material, and other factors (for example, if my understanding is correct, well protected sepia photographs tend more to a darker reddish brown hue, less protected photographs tend to be lighter and more yellow).
See the first minute of this example on YouTube using the desktop version  of Affinity Photo (credit: Drippy Cat), but the same effect can be reproduced easily with the iPad version of Affinity Designer.
Yes! Especially now that Affinity Designer runs on the new iPad Mini.

You need to choose the ‘Grid’ option from the Document menu. You should then see a ‘Grid Mode’ option on the Context menu, and setting that to ‘Isometric’ will make the isometric functions appear on the Commands menu.

I can confirm that the Keyboard Shortcuts feature does in fact work on my iPad Pro 9.7" (iOS 12.3.1) with a Bluetooth keyboard. Of course, I couldn't test all of them, but most of the most common ones that I use — as found in the Help under "Keyboard Shortcuts" — are working. 
Of course, due to the difference in the desktop vs touch interface, not all of the desktop version shortcuts will be found. And perhaps other shortcuts will be added based upon user requests. But it's very functional. The list of keyboard shortcuts is now quite extensive.
 

My suggestion would be to check the integrity of the downloaded installer file before redownloading. To do this, right-click the installer file in an Explorer window and choose ‘Properties’. In the Properties dialog, go to the Digital Signatures tab and click on an entry in the signature list to highlight that entry. The ‘Details’ button will become enabled, and when you press it and wait for several seconds you will get a message telling you whether or not the digital signature is OK. If it’s not OK, or if the Digital Signatures tab is missing, you have a corrupt or incomplete download and you need to download a fresh copy of the installer file (and if it is OK, the problem lies elsewhere and there’s no point in downloading the installer file all over again).

Hello, and welcome!
I believe the Affinity Store version is identical to the Microsoft Store version, only the registration and update processes are different.
Note: Part of the reason you are probably having trouble is that, unlike FireAlpaca and Medibang Paint, Affinity Designer is, at its heart, a vector program rather than a paint (raster) program. There is a Pixel persona, which is more like your paint/sketch experience, a raster/paint environment within Designer. You could use only the Pixel persona, and create only pixel layers to paint onto, which would be more like FireAlpaca or Medibang Paint, but you would be missing out on much of the power of the Designer program. Choose between Personas by clicking on the Persona icons at the top. Here's a tutorial example of only working with the Pixel persona (credit: Frankentoon).
Oh, yeah, Personas - think of two artists working closely together, one cuts out pieces of paper and pieces of string and pastes them onto layers (the Draw persona), the other one (the Pixel persona) paints on those paper shapes or onto transparent layers (your previous experience). Each artist uses different tools and has different ways of working.
You've only ever worked with the Pixel persona in your paint programs, now you are also dealing with its more technical sibling, the Draw persona (draw as in using a pencil with various shaped rulers, or even scissors with paper, more or less, not draw as in freehand sketch). From a painting viewpoint, you might start by thinking of those vector objects as permanent selection areas - you are firstly creating your selection areas (vector shapes, pieces of paper), then manipulating them or painting onto (into) them - it's not exactly true, but it's one way to start thinking in vectors.
If you've made good use of the curve snap, panel material, and panel tools in FireAlpaca and Medibang Paint, those are a couple of baby steps into vectors.
Working with vectors, the Draw persona, can be incredibly powerful once you've got your head around it, then combine it with raster tools - see a similar approach in video here (both examples by Frankentoon  (Enrique Figueroa) - I'm a big fan of his work, tutorials, and brushes - hmm, the Gallery is broken for me at the moment). 
A few starting points:
Affinity Designer official (Serif) tutorials (for the desktop version, not the iPad) The Affinity Designer Workbook (available in print only, no ebook)- information and project-based tutorials for the desktop (not iPad) version The free vector inking chapter from the paid but not expensive Advanced Illustration ebook (yes, Frankentoon again) 2 hour, 42 minute tutorial on YouTube There are several Affinity Designer courses on paid platforms like Udemy, Skillshare, etc Points you mentioned:
The undo equivalent is Ctrl+Z or Edit menu > Undo, or use the History Panel to pick any point to undo to (you could multiple undo with a single click) or use the History slider. No, there is no undo button. The gradient fills are very powerful (not just linear or  circular, multiple colours, and you can edit them at any stage of your artwork, not only when you first create them). You still have "normal" layers in the Layers panel (they are labelled "Layer"), but it also shows each object on that layer - instead of "painting" on a layer (remember, you can still do that), a lot of the time you're sticking many paper cutout shapes , or strands of wool or wire, "onto" (into?) the layer, and you can still have access to any one of them (you can also paint on them). Colouring "normally" - you could create a new Pixel layer, change to the Pixel persona, then paint as "normal", as shown in previous links, or you can learn to do it the vector way: first you create a coloured shape with your vector tools (it's like a selection already filled with a base colour), maybe change it to a gradient or other fill rather than a flat colour, then maybe paint onto that shape. Sketching: Probably use the Pixel persona for that.

@Phyphia

You're zooming in at 400% in your example image. Any pixel based brush will look pixelated then. Changing the dpi will not really change the pixelating of the brushes. You could have a dpi of several hundred, but if your canvas is only something like 100x100 pixels, that is the quality you are going to get.

I'd suggest working on a larger canvas if you are going to use pixel brushes, because unlike vector graphics that can scale to any size without losing image quality, a pixel will not keep its quality if upscaled. It's easier to downscale a pixel image than it is to upscale for that very reason. I work with at least 4-5k pixels in width and/or height to get crisp image quality for pixel art when I export later (either same image size or downscaled) as well as make brushes with the quality that matches that canvas size. If your imported Photoshop brushes have small textures they will produce blurry results as well, so keep that in mind.

Hello, and welcome!
I believe the Affinity Store version is identical to the Microsoft Store version, only the registration and update processes are different.
Note: Part of the reason you are probably having trouble is that, unlike FireAlpaca and Medibang Paint, Affinity Designer is, at its heart, a vector program rather than a paint (raster) program. There is a Pixel persona, which is more like your paint/sketch experience, a raster/paint environment within Designer. You could use only the Pixel persona, and create only pixel layers to paint onto, which would be more like FireAlpaca or Medibang Paint, but you would be missing out on much of the power of the Designer program. Choose between Personas by clicking on the Persona icons at the top. Here's a tutorial example of only working with the Pixel persona (credit: Frankentoon).
Oh, yeah, Personas - think of two artists working closely together, one cuts out pieces of paper and pieces of string and pastes them onto layers (the Draw persona), the other one (the Pixel persona) paints on those paper shapes or onto transparent layers (your previous experience). Each artist uses different tools and has different ways of working.
You've only ever worked with the Pixel persona in your paint programs, now you are also dealing with its more technical sibling, the Draw persona (draw as in using a pencil with various shaped rulers, or even scissors with paper, more or less, not draw as in freehand sketch). From a painting viewpoint, you might start by thinking of those vector objects as permanent selection areas - you are firstly creating your selection areas (vector shapes, pieces of paper), then manipulating them or painting onto (into) them - it's not exactly true, but it's one way to start thinking in vectors.
If you've made good use of the curve snap, panel material, and panel tools in FireAlpaca and Medibang Paint, those are a couple of baby steps into vectors.
Working with vectors, the Draw persona, can be incredibly powerful once you've got your head around it, then combine it with raster tools - see a similar approach in video here (both examples by Frankentoon  (Enrique Figueroa) - I'm a big fan of his work, tutorials, and brushes - hmm, the Gallery is broken for me at the moment). 
A few starting points:
Affinity Designer official (Serif) tutorials (for the desktop version, not the iPad) The Affinity Designer Workbook (available in print only, no ebook)- information and project-based tutorials for the desktop (not iPad) version The free vector inking chapter from the paid but not expensive Advanced Illustration ebook (yes, Frankentoon again) 2 hour, 42 minute tutorial on YouTube There are several Affinity Designer courses on paid platforms like Udemy, Skillshare, etc Points you mentioned:
The undo equivalent is Ctrl+Z or Edit menu > Undo, or use the History Panel to pick any point to undo to (you could multiple undo with a single click) or use the History slider. No, there is no undo button. The gradient fills are very powerful (not just linear or  circular, multiple colours, and you can edit them at any stage of your artwork, not only when you first create them). You still have "normal" layers in the Layers panel (they are labelled "Layer"), but it also shows each object on that layer - instead of "painting" on a layer (remember, you can still do that), a lot of the time you're sticking many paper cutout shapes , or strands of wool or wire, "onto" (into?) the layer, and you can still have access to any one of them (you can also paint on them). Colouring "normally" - you could create a new Pixel layer, change to the Pixel persona, then paint as "normal", as shown in previous links, or you can learn to do it the vector way: first you create a coloured shape with your vector tools (it's like a selection already filled with a base colour), maybe change it to a gradient or other fill rather than a flat colour, then maybe paint onto that shape. Sketching: Probably use the Pixel persona for that.

http://www.modbook.com/
Admittedly, it's a third-party modified MacBook + Wacom digitizer Frankenstein's monster. On the plus side, it should run the Mac(desktop)OSX versions of Affinity products.

I rediscovered this website while I was cleaning out some old browser bookmarks for web design stuff and thought I’d share it in case anyone else found it useful: https://trianglify.io/
With it you can quickly generate some simple triangle-based graphics - see attached example - which can be exported as either PNG or SVG and then used in your Affinity projects.
The output isn’t perfect – e.g. the vertices in the SVGs are not exactly aligned and the PNGs sometimes have ‘gaps’ – but they might be of some use, maybe as a starting point for something else.

I'm not sure if you can do the equivalent of "new from clipboard" on iPad to get the dimensions automatically, but you can follow up the Paste operation demonstrated above with:
Document icon > Canvas > Clip Canvas to get a document the size of the newly pasted content.

After fiddling a lot with GPU drivers (creator vs gaming drivers and versions of those) G-sync was disabled by accident, and I noticed the lagging was gone.
So after a bit more testing I found out that when G-sync is set to work with windowed mode too, it became an issue with Affinity. The reason I thought it was an Affinity problem especially, and with Threadripper is I had recently built a brand new computer, and Affinity were the only apps that had this issue. 3D, video, compositing and other photo apps have not had this lagging issue at all.
 
I tried recording it, but in the videos it played fine, which also goes to tell that it was a G-sync issue, not Affinity directly.
Conclusion: enable G-sync only for full screen mode.

Yes! Many, many ways. How will depend, as formerly suggested, on your software knowledge, artistic skill, and envisaged output.
For example:
Take a photo of a cat, draw on (raster or vector) antennae, as per My Favorite Martian. Ta-da! Alien cat. Paint green spots or stripes on a photo of a cat, maybe using @Wosven's fur brushes, painting on another layer above the photo and experimenting with blending modes: Ta-da! Alien cat. Your green cat with purple ears is a good example of this technique. As per @Alfred's instructions for the astronaut cat, merge a cut-out photo of a cat's head with a photo of an octopus, or a close-up photo of an ant. Ta-da! Alien cat. Paint it as original art. Use your own pencil sketch of an alien cat and @Pariah73 's painting tutorial.

Yes! Many, many ways. How will depend, as formerly suggested, on your software knowledge, artistic skill, and envisaged output.
For example:
Take a photo of a cat, draw on (raster or vector) antennae, as per My Favorite Martian. Ta-da! Alien cat. Paint green spots or stripes on a photo of a cat, maybe using @Wosven's fur brushes, painting on another layer above the photo and experimenting with blending modes: Ta-da! Alien cat. Your green cat with purple ears is a good example of this technique. As per @Alfred's instructions for the astronaut cat, merge a cut-out photo of a cat's head with a photo of an octopus, or a close-up photo of an ant. Ta-da! Alien cat. Paint it as original art. Use your own pencil sketch of an alien cat and @Pariah73 's painting tutorial.

This is mostly theoretical knowledge only, I don't currently have an iPad:
 
Probably something like Xender or SHAREit - temporarily makes your iPad into a web server, as I understand it, either using your home WiFi or making your iPad a hotspot (neither requires internet access, it's working on purely local networking).
 
I think SHAREit requires an app on both ends (iPad and computer), while Xender uses a web browser on the computer end. SHAREit includes other features (e.g. Powerpoint slide controller), while Xender seems to be purely file transfer.
 
There are some other apps that do something similar, and I think iTunes can do direct file transfer (they've bolted everything they can onto that monster, and I can understand your reluctance to use it - I've used it in the past).
 
iMazing apparently does direct cable transfer without iTunes.
 
Alternatively, you can use a USB drive or stick with the appropriate adapter (for some USB devices you might need to supply external power to the adapter via the Lightning port beside the USB port Note: it is not a second data port, it is for extra power).