jackamus

I have just watched the video and I will have to have a go with this on a new set of images.

Sorry David, I have just read you last post and I will be looking at the video tutorial on Stacking in AP.

David, I downloaded the file you sent me and I need to know how this was done? It looked very good!

This problem only occurred because I'm playing around with 30 time lapse images. Next time I do it I'll remember to get the stack right to start with. I don't think it is worth adding as a feature.

Is there a way to reverse the layer stack?

AF 1.5.1 OS = El Capitan 10.11.6

Why is it that when I select a jpeg image measuring 1968 x 1476 pix and place it on a page that the image size has now increased to 6109 x 4581pix?

I've no idea what you are talking about! I appreciated all that you said.

Thanks MEB.

Clicking the actual Adjustment thumbnail rather then the layer did the trick thanks.

A better question would have been: How do I edit an Adjustment layer if I am not happy with the original result?

There isn't an FX icon next to the layer. The adjustment layer I used was the 'Exposure' feature and I want to get rid of it. If I go back and do it again I then get another Adjustment layer.

How do you delete an adjustment layer without deleting the original?

That about wraps up this thread!

I appreciate the thought and help you are offering but in this particular case this is a step too far. There is one thing I will try with my cheap Samsung camera and that is not to use the zoom (2.5 X) but simply set the camera to maximum resolution (16mpixels) which should give me a final lower resolution of 6.4 million. This should be good enough for time-lapse video.

My £60 Samsung camera (not smart phone! I might add) has an alignment grid too. No flash hot-spots as I only gloss varnish the painting when I am totally finished. I have another bridge camera (Panasonic FZ72) which has a good feature in that it can be set to always return to the last zoom position when switching on. With my Samsung I have to reset the zoom each time which, if not careful, can add to the final 'registration' problem of the photos. Another problem is, even with two cameras, one will always be out of action for the duration of the project. What I really need is a cheap camera that has a return to zoom feature. Curry's tell me it is only Panasonic that does it - unless some one knows different?

Hi David, Actually I have already considered much of what you have suggested except for the two lights. This is not going to be very practical for me. I think my easiest option to achieve even lighting is to use a flash. At the moment, although it is a cheap digital camera, it does have a 'Fill-in' flash feature. This tends to remove the uneven lighting caused by the window in my studio. However this is my second trial on a new painting. I can't use a tripod as my studio is not large enough so I have a wooden bar, with the camera firmly attached, which I place across the door frame at the same height every time and pointing at the centre of the painting. When I've finished the painting I'll check out the results on my computer.

I think you are right. I did try it and as you say it is fiddly. I will leave it and make sure that when I do my next painting I will make sure I photograph it accurately.

Hi David, 'Registration' that's the word I should have been using! Thanks for that but I did do something similar however I will go back and try it the way you have suggested.

Hi Leigh, I have 26 photos which are basically time-lapse but they were taken by a camera that wasn't always in exactly the same position. These are progress photos of a painting I have done and I want to create a kind of time-lapse video. I have some software that will allow me to do that but unless all the images are exactly the same size the software will stretch the image to fit. This causes the image in the finished video to 'wobble'. The problem now is that I did manually crop them using AD and produced a reasonable video. However if it helps I have attached a Dropbox link to an AD file where you can resize them to recreate the original cropping problem. There is another aspect to cropping and that is the car must always be in the same place withing the cropped area. Again I manually adjusted this using AD. https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobsym9bw9l4ghj/Cropping%20test.afdesign?dl=0

Is it possible to crop about 20 grouped rectangles, all slightly different size, to a common cropped size?

That makes sense. Thanks

Having said that I do use Shift when I'm nudging objects and nodes to speed up movement.

When I hold down the Shift key as well it just creates a blue highlight area when I press an arrow key

Thanks MED this is ideal. Incidentally what are these increments points or mm?