toltec

If you take a document with 3 objects

and hide one layer in the Export Persona


If you output with "Don't export layers hidden by Export persona" ticked"

You get this when exported.

 
If "Don't export layers hidden by Export persona" is unticked

You get this

Even if it is hidden in the layers panel.


 
Basically, if unticked, it ignores the fact you hid the layer in the layers panel and outputs it anyway.
 
A bit like telling a child "don't touch that". They will anyway 
 
P.S. This has absolutely nothing to do with slices, even although it is in the Export Persona.

There is certainly a simpler and quicker method in Photo, I don't know about better?
First thing is to apply a Dust and Scratches Live Filter layer and adjust the slider until the stubble disappears.

Select the filter layer and invert it, Layer > Invert which effectively removes the dust and scratches effect.
Set the Dust and Scratches layer blend mode to Lighten.

On the filter layer (built in mask), paint over the stubble using a paint brush with white paint, which paints the dust and scratches effect just where you want. 
A little bit of retouching does no harm.

Would have been a little bit better if I had the original image.
 

Very 

There is certainly a simpler and quicker method in Photo, I don't know about better?
First thing is to apply a Dust and Scratches Live Filter layer and adjust the slider until the stubble disappears.

Select the filter layer and invert it, Layer > Invert which effectively removes the dust and scratches effect.
Set the Dust and Scratches layer blend mode to Lighten.

On the filter layer (built in mask), paint over the stubble using a paint brush with white paint, which paints the dust and scratches effect just where you want. 
A little bit of retouching does no harm.

Would have been a little bit better if I had the original image.
 

There is certainly a simpler and quicker method in Photo, I don't know about better?
First thing is to apply a Dust and Scratches Live Filter layer and adjust the slider until the stubble disappears.

Select the filter layer and invert it, Layer > Invert which effectively removes the dust and scratches effect.
Set the Dust and Scratches layer blend mode to Lighten.

On the filter layer (built in mask), paint over the stubble using a paint brush with white paint, which paints the dust and scratches effect just where you want. 
A little bit of retouching does no harm.

Would have been a little bit better if I had the original image.
 

Thanks for all your help yesterday guys. Worked a treat.

Hi @blackxacto
Basically, holding down shift draws a straight line from the last place you clicked, to where you click now. That is why is seemed to sometimes draw across the page, you pressed shift too soon. Press shift after clicking on the start point of your straight line.
So, click on the start point, press down shift and click on the end point to draw a straight line between the points.
Release the shift key to paint as normal.
If you click on a start point, then hold down shift, you can keep clicking to add new straight lines. Like drawing in polygon mode with a pen. As soon as you release shift, it paints as normal.
Note. You can't align to a grid. For that, use the pen tool to draw vector lines and then rasterise them.
 

I think R-CR means this.

If you do a search and click on the swatch that appears

It adds it here

You can do that, if you create a path around the outside as Alfred suggested. Set the thickness of the outside line to, say 6 mm (you can enter 6 mm in the points box, Designer will translate.) then Expand Stroke.
Result a 6 mm offset path 

In preferences, it is also possible to set it so that lines are always in mm, (actually document units). not points which might make it easier ?

You can access presets from the Adjustments panel in the Studio.

If you create your own presets by clicking on Add Preset in the Gradient Map panel, they will appear in there too.

Make a new layer, Layer > New Layer. that will be a transparent layer. Then Load to Pixel Selection (as you did), that loads the selection to the new, transparent layer. Then go Edit > Fill and fill it with the colour you want.
Click on the Swatch to choose the colour.

Hide (or delete) the background layer.

Note that the Document must be set to have a Transparent Background Document > Transparent Background.

Easiest way is to select any item and click on either Fill or Stroke on the Context Toolbar (third menu bar from the top of the window).

Fill will fill the object, Stroke will colour the outline of the object
 
Open up the main group and select an item, then click on a colour in the Fill swatch.


 
You can also select any item (layer) and click on a colour in the colour panel

Note that the correct colour well must be selected.

If the donut shaped well is selected (on top) clicking on a colour colours the stroke outline)

If the fill colour well is selected (now overlapping the stroke) the colour you click on fills the object you have selected.
 
However, as Gabe said, many of your objects are not closed, so it causes issues with filling.

 
An open object

 
A closed object

Hi hujikoda,
Select the group layer in the Layers panel then go to menu File ▸ Export... and select Selection with (or without) background from the Area dropdown.
Alternatively create a slice from that group (in the Layers panel in Export Persona) and export as PNG from there. There's no need to create artboards just for export.

Actually, although I agree in principle, during my years in the print trade you would be amazed at how many people used Word to lay out pages before submitting them for print. It is actually pretty good, it even has built in image editing, text effects etc. The main problem was lack of bleed.
Anyway, Designer is not an image editing program, but it often gets used for that.
The thing is, so many modern programs do a bit of everything so you can use them for what you want.
P.S. Out of all the programs we used to print from, Publisher was the worst for problems. Word was more reliable.
Go figure 

When you move the outline to the road and copy and paste, select the Move tool to move the road over the dog.
BTW, instead of copy and paste, you can press Ctrl + J to duplicate the selection area to a new layer.
 

There are several utilities that work very well with Photo.
I use and can highly recommend Faststone Image Viewer (free for non-commercial use). It scans directly and can be set to launch the scanned image directly into Photo, with a shortcut. For scanning, there is effectively no difference from a typical image editor opening a TWAIN panel but there are many other benefits, like basic cropping and editing plus screengrab and DAM. Although not yet Affinity native format.

http://www.faststone.org
Another one is Vuescan 

You said you wanted it to be "really same as in Photoshop." How else do you expect people to interpret that other than as having the same UI choices? There are a number of reasons that is not going to happen in Affinity Photo, all of which have been explained in numerous topics & in great detail in these forums by the staff & developers.
Really? What about the universal native file format that any app in the Affinity suite can open without conversion or loss? Or the very high memory efficiency or pan & zoom refresh rates? Maybe the minimal dependance on modal dialogs? Serialized file storage or the ability to handle pixel dimensions that choke Photoshop? Sure, you can find some of these things in other apps but good luck trying to find them all in one app, much less one in this price range.
The developers have made it very clear that the primary goal of the "clean slate" design approach they chose to adopt for the Affinity range was to be free of the limitations of legacy code bases that bog down & bloat apps like Adobe's & their own Windows-only Plus line. It isn't about 'improving' what already exists by bolting on even more of the same old stuff. It is about designing from the ground up to take advantage of the newest & most efficient emerging technologies wherever possible.
If you don't like that approach to software design, you have plenty of other choices, but the Affinity approach is not going to be the right one for you.

OK, so maybe as I suggested a dropdown menu available from the Selection part of the Toolbar ? It would look like the Quick Mask bit. No real estate lost but always available.

Selections are an important part of Photo editing, so those options would indeed be very useful.

There are several utilities that work very well with Photo.
I use and can highly recommend Faststone Image Viewer (free for non-commercial use). It scans directly and can be set to launch the scanned image directly into Photo, with a shortcut. For scanning, there is effectively no difference from a typical image editor opening a TWAIN panel but there are many other benefits, like basic cropping and editing plus screengrab and DAM. Although not yet Affinity native format.

http://www.faststone.org
Another one is Vuescan 

I don't know if it would help you until "Sticky settings" appear ? but you could create a macro.
The attached one adds a Gaussian filter layer, sets Preserve Alpha and opens the slider panel.
The library panel can have a keyboard shortcut applied, like Alt + L
So press Alt + L, click on the blur filter macro then Alt + L to close the Library again. Or of course, you could leave the Library open.
 
Blurred.afmacros

Oh, when I tried all of them a while back it seemed to crop them.
One of those "Specsavers" moments. 
I have amended my post to save any confusion.

Then in other short words you should be using Photoshop because Affinity Photo is never going to do everything the same way, nor should it. If you take some time to browse through the forum you will see why. Among other reasons, many of us like Affinity Photo precisely because it does not do things in the same way as Photoshop.

Export slice resolution:
1x -As set in the document.
2x -Double the document resolution.
3x -Three times the document resolution.
100w -100 pixels wide. Height in proportion to original slice ratio.
50h -50 pixels high. Width in proportion to original slice ratio.
64p -64 Sets the longest edge to 64 pixels.
64p, 2x -Sets the longest edge to 128 pixels.
32w, 32h -Creates an image, 32 pixels wide by 32 pixels high. Stretches the image to fit those dimensions.
Edit. Changed 32w, 32h to indicate it stretches, instead of crops. Thanks Gabe.

If you click here it adds a new slice

Click here to change the size
 
Edit, Damn, beaten by Gabe.

Why not? In Affinity Photo in particular, didn't you ever used bezier curves/paths to create/generate selections or masks rather than using raster based selection tools? It's quite useful. Affinity Designer doesn't have those buttons in the context toolbar.