toltec

As @MEB says or you can right click on a shape and choose Add to Swatches > From Fill. Make sure that none of the gradients handles are selected or it adds the handle colour as solid colour, not the whole gradient. Press escape to deselect them.

What happens with this file ? Right click and you should be able to save it as a PNG I 'erased white paper' then exported it as a PNG. Note.Your image has a bit of a residue, and is not completely transparent so I increased the contrast a bit before 'erasing white paper'. However, I am only working from what you uploaded, not the original. That PNG file loaded on to a different file with a background.

There will be no difference between export resolution using Photo or Designer. Photo can handle text and vector files just as well as Designer can, and vice versa with image files. The only possible drawback with Photo is that you cannot create documents with page bleed.

You must save the document in a format that supports transparency, like PNG or TIFF. JPEGs don't support transparency, so the background will be white.

Might you be confusing the ‘Save History with Document’ option with 'Snapshots' ?

It is perhaps worth pointing out that one drawback of the ‘Save History with Document’ option, is that the file sizes will be larger on your disc. Sometimes considerably so,. It is also worth mentioning Snapshots as they are very useful when working with history. Snapshots save the current state of your document, complete with all layers and edits. Photo creates a snapshot (called 'Background'), when you load a document but you can create them at any time. They are good for experimenting, because by creating snapshots as you work, it is possible to make changes, create a snapshot, make more changes, create another snapshot and so on. Then you can then move between the snapshots at will, which is effectively like having different documents, but all inside one Photo document. You can't do that with history, because if you go back and make a change, you can't move forwards again because you have created a new 'timeline'. It is also easy to create a new independent document from any one of the snapshots. Make a Snapshot by going Document > Add Snapshot and giving it a name. Go to any snapshot by going Document > Restore Snapshot and selecting the one you want. Four Snapshots including the default 'Background' that Photo created as the document was loaded. There is a dedicated Studio panel, View > Studio > Snapshots where you can delete them or create a separate document from one. Snapshots are always saved inside the .afphoto file, whether the ‘Save History with Document’ option is on or not. They are not saved in JPEGs etc.

Without seeing the image, a bit hard because there are lots of methods, each one depending on what is there. It might be possible to get away with using a Shadows and Highlight Adjustment and just adjust the highlights, Failing that, an easy method to try. . . Select the wall and refine the edges as necessary. Select > Refine Edges Go Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Levels and simply adjust the White Level slider. The selection will mask the Adjustment to the selected area only. i.e. the Wall I selected the sky and used that to simulate a wall.

Not in Designer. In Photo you could write (a very short) macro. Sorry. If you want to copy and position an object in one go, it would probably be better to press down Ctrl (PC) then click and drag the object. That copies it and lets you drag it to where you want. Not quite what you want but the same effect?

Damn, too slow again

You can't really crop a page to an image. In normal Document mode, Designer works like Quark Xpress. i.e a page layout program. If you want to crop to an image, you need to use an Artboard. If desperate, you can convert the artboard back to a "cropped" document. See this recent thread.

You can't copy part of a layer, unless you mean a pixel layer. If so, make a pixel selection then press Ctrl + J. It will copy just the selected area to a new layer. Note that it must be a Pixel layer, not an Image layer. If it is an Image layer, right click and choose 'rasterise' If you wan't to copy a complete later, press down Ctrl and click drag on a layer to duplicate the whole thing. Or right click and choose Duplicate. All the controls to show tools or toolbars are in the view menu.

Right click and choose Release That should do it although you might have to do it twice to get it to be a main layer.

The most common method for that is to build a Wordpress site, where you can limit access to certain pages (password protection). You can also use plug-ins for Wordpress if you want to run a paid membership site. This site lists some examples, some free, some paid. https://www.wpkube.com/best-wordpress-membership-plugins-match-budget/

OK someone else

Here is one to start with. There are others (I think) so I’m sure someone will post them.

To be honest, that would be a better job for Affinity Designer and Artboards. Designer would be the perfect program for the job but you could use Photo which is just as good as Photoshop. Don't waste your money on Photoshop, Designer is far cheaper. A CD jacket If you get in trouble, I'm sure anyone here would knock up a quick template for you, or show you how.

Hi @dizeyner It sounds like you are using Designer and the Vector Crop tool, as @R C-R suggested Designer in default, document mode is a 'page layout program'. A bit like a single page version of Quark, InDesign or even (at a stretch) Word. In that case it works exactly like every other page layout program. You create pages and place objects on the page, then print it out, maybe with bleed and crop marks. You cannot trim Word or Quark pages to an image placed on the page! If you want to create a canvas type document, that you can then crop to a single image you need to either use Photo, which is designed for that sort of thing, which is why it has a canvas crop tool. That works pretty much exactly like any other image editing program. The crop tool crops, you have preset aspect ratios, can enter a size etc. Drag and crop! Designer is much better than Quark, Word etc because if you use artboards, you can trim to what you want, just like Photo. If you have a page, click on the Artboard Tool, select Document and Insert Artboard. You can then "crop" the page by dragging the handles. That will convert your page (document) into an Artboard. Dragging a handle to resize an Artboard to "crop" the canvas. You can also convert a selection on the page to an Artboard to save you the trouble of moving handles to crop it afterwards. It will then be cropped to your selection. It is even possible to convert the cropped Artboard back into a normal document (a page) by going Layer > Convert Artboard to Object. but there is no real reason to do this. That is really no more work or no harder that using Photo, which would be the normal canvas based program for that sort of operation. Try doing any of that in Quark or Word !!! There is also the option to create slices, either from a dragged selection area, or from a selection. It's all very flexible for a 'page layout program'.

I would select the red using the flood select tool. Play around with the tolerance setting until happy. Duplicate that to a new layer, (ctrl + j) then invert the background layer. That way the red is untouched. p.s. The “colour replacement” tool is really a “hue replacement” tool. It doesn’t work on black, white or very low saturation colours.

Oh no, don't say that. !! I used it on about 100 photos that only had grey in them and I thought it did a really good job. A minor tweak and a Preset and it saved me loads of time. I shall have to redo all those pictures now and stop recommending Photo to everybody

You can use the Develop Persona and the white balance tool. That will work on whites or greys. You can Shift click and add extra sample points to average out the reading. You can also apply a White Balance Adjustment layer. Layers > New Adjustment Layer > White Balance Adjustment If you click on the Picker, like the Develop Persona you can click on whites or greys to balance the image and also Shift click to add multiple sample points. It has to be white or grey, it won't work on colours !

Not sure what you mean?. There is the Status Bar at the very bottom of the Program window. This is on when you choose a tool and it displays options relevant to the tool selected. If you can't see it, is the bottom of your window off the screen? They won't appear unless you have a document open! There are the pop-up tool-tips that display when you hover over a tool. You can change the delay (how quickly they appear) in Edit > Preferences > User Interface. Then there are the tips on the Toolbar. If you right click on the Toolbar, choose Icons and Text to display them.

All soft proofing does is temporarily adjust the image you see so that it matches the final print better. If you did it from the beginning, you permanently alter the image. Soft proofing compensates for the fact that you monitor cannot match the output from a professional printer. Lots of reasons for that. However, because the soft proofing layer matches by distorting the colours in your image, you do not want to send the distorted image to be printed. e.g. if your monitor made the image on your screen look too blue. a soft proof layer would reduce the blue in the image so that it looked better (less blue). But, because the soft proof layer has removed blue from the image, if you sent the altered image to the printer, there would not be enough blue in the image any more. So turn the layer off. As I said, it is purely a temporary method of adjusting what you see locally.

Yes, it was a bit tricky on an iPad with fat fingers. I must admit it took me two or three attempts but i got there in the end Your idea would probably work a bit better depending on the radius of the corner. The rounded edge from an ellipse is a bit more er, rounded. Or can be. Still, some different ideas for the OP to try P.S. It might be easier to draw a rectangle, add a couple of nodes and "lose" one corner before adding a circle ?

I’m not too familiar with the iPad version, so may be missing something buT you can use Boolean operations Create a rectangle and duplicate it. Draw a circle on top in one corner that very slightly overlaps the rectangle. It must overlap the edges or the Boolean operation won’t work. Select the circle and the top rectangle, in Geometry, choose Divide, which will leave you with several odd shapes. In the layers studio, delete everything except the original rectangle and the bit that looks like a triangle with a concave inner, basically the opposite of a rounded corner. You will use that to cut the corner off. Select both objects and in geometry, choose subtract. The triangle bit will chop the corner off, leaving you with one rounded corner. It is a lot easier to do than it is to describe.

So how much was the two year subscription to Adobe compared to a one off licence fee for Affinity Photo on Windows ? With that sort of money saving, you could pay someone to update the apps for you and still be better off If you have so much money to waste, I'm surprised you are even considering a move from Adobe