toltec

Have you tried doing that in InDesign or Quark XPress? They are both Page Layout programs like Designer. You set the page size first, then drop images on it. You can't just resize pages. If you want to crop a Designer page (like Photo or Photoshop) convert the page into an Artboard. Then you can do what you want.

Make a duplicate of the image you want to be a mask. Apply a black and white adjustment and adjust to suit, but click on Merge in the Adjustment panel. Make sure the 'Mask' layer is selected in the Layers panel, then do as MEB suggests and go Layer > Rasterise to Mask. P.S. Make sure it is not an Image layer (Placed).

What ???, an actual physical burglary. That is SO last century Most people in this century would install a key logger, hack your bank account, steal your identity, order a new iPad or similar from Amazon (to be delivered by drone), all without leaving their bedroom.

Yes, the video works, but I'm afraid I can't help with your no node problem. Sorry.

No. Well, I can hear something but it is all white!

Nine times out of ten it's because you have the wrong layer selected when you click an adjustment ?. Layer selected Click on the Black and White Adjustment And it adds an Adjustment layer above the one I want to adjust.

Do you mean just in black and white? Select the adjustment layer and in the layers panel, tap the More button ... then tap Solo.

Hi @pjglad Select the adjustment layer in the Layers Studio. Go to the Channels Studio. Tap on the "More" button next to the adjustment layer and there is an option to 'Invert' in there.

I'm the good looking one

If you select the Selection Studio, then select the lasso tool (actually called the Polygon Marquee Tool) you can change the type on the Context menu to either Freehand Polygonal Magnetic

Yes. Probably with a disclaimer. "Serif bears no responsibility for any loss of data or damage to your equipment caused by using cheap Chinese keyboards" P.S. I have just bought one too, but can't figure out how to connect it as it didn't come with a connecting cable. I hate technology

A proper computer Seriously, under Transforming Objects it does say To nudge objects (Smart Keyboard only): Select one or more objects. Tap an arrow key to nudge by a single unit of measurement. You can change nudge distances via Preferences (Tools tab). There seems to be nothing about "active modifiers" though.

Unless someone can come up with a clever solution, can't you just draw a rectangle, convert it to curves, set the fill to 50% transparent (or whatever) and then just modify the shape? Shape being edited using the node tool.

There is a ‘Protect Alpha’ button on the context menu of the Paintbrush Tool which stops you painting on transparent areas. There is a Preserve alpha on many filters which stops the transparent areas affecting the result of the filter.

You are in 2:1 isometric mode, so you need to adjust the spacing manually using the two buttons on the right (spacing and divisions). It won’t change automatically. Set to Auto (not 2:1 isometric) and the grid resizes as you zoom. Turn the grid off with the Show Grid button (the eye on the left)

If not convenient for now, buy a laptop but try and get one where the screen display does not appear to change too much as you alter the viewing angle. That will probably do you for a while but be careful how you view it (as I described earlier). Use a calibration device on it!!! With the RGB workflow printer, get your proofs made and use a soft proof to match the display to the proof (more or less). If you are designing in CMYK for the CMYK workflow printer, I would recommend that you use a different approach and buy a Pantone CMYK swatch. Not a ‘normal’ Pantone colour swatch. You need the uncoated part, because obviously materials are not coated. https://www.pantone.com/color-bridge-coated-uncoated That will show you what CMYK colours should look like when you use them. Then it’s up to the printer company to match them. Don’t try to do it visually on the monitor, that’s too much like hard work Literally, ‘print by numbers’. Design a test page in CMYK using the swatch colours and get that printed but talk to the printers first so they know what you are after and ask for advice. Especially about using Pantone colours etc. They will know best. A CMYK swatch is interesting because it’s amazing how it shows the limitations of using just cyan, magenta and yellow inks with some colours. Good luck

If you click on the Layer Studio, then click on the button that looks like a stack of layers (2nd from left) , Rasterise is in there.

I just tried several times with PNG files and JPEG files and had no problems. iPad Air2, latest OS. I was saving to my iPad.

Well, now I know the process, it makes it easier for me, but harder for you Forget what I said about Pantone spot colours, that won't happen with the Direct to Garment process. Absolutely the first thing you need to do is sort out your viewing. I am not a fan of using laptops because the displays are not really designed for colour accuracy and the colours you see on screen can change depending on viewing angle and ambient lighting. However, assuming you don't want to buy a new computer and monitor just yet, you must calibrate what you have, Buy a Spyder (or similar) calibration device https://www.datacolor.com/photography-design/product-overview/spyder5-family/ they are not expensive and you can use it on any computer. After calibrating, make sure that you always view your laptop at the same angle and under similar ambient lighting conditions. Obviously, you can design anywhere, but view the colours where you can assess them properly. (and consistently). Make sure that the laptop is always plugged in to the mains as most dim the display to save batteries when not plugged in. Because of the type of printing process, you will need to do some work. First thing is to design a calibration page. Something with a stock photo and a range of colours on it. Something like this from Adobe. or use that, search for Adobe Calibration Image. Get that printed by the different printers as a sample (ideally on a couple of different items as colours will vary a bit between materials). Now you will need to see how the print compares to the 'calibration image' on your newly calibrated screen If it is 'off colour', this is where Affinity's Soft Proofing might come in handy. See if any of the preset profiles get the colour close .Under no circumstance adjust your calibrated screen !!! Design something you like, apply the soft proof layer temporarily and that should be pretty much what you will get. Some colours just wont look good, like oranges and greens because CMYK can't reproduce them. It is all about being able to design something that can be printed! Not the other way round. Remember that the soft proof layer is only there to temporarily adjust you monitor for viewing. Make sure you delete it or turn it off before sending your design to be printed or it will mess up the whole process. That's the best place to start.

I’m not sure why you want to make snapshots from the Liquify Persona. Are you trying to make some sort of distortion sequence ? If so, you will have to Apply the distortion each time. So, Liquify > Apply > create Snapshot Go to the Liquify Studio again, distort some more > Apply > create Snapshot etc etc. Each step will be on a separate Snapshot.

Works for me except in the pixel Persona with a selection tool active, then it deselects a pixel selection. (Almost identical PC spec). You can press Escape instead.

Edit > Defaults > Revert. Bear in mind that you can save almost any style you want as a default style (Edit > Defaults > Save), so if you used it to save something odd, that is what you will get.

DPI is irrelevant, it's all about the number of pixels. A typical monitor is 1920 pixels wide. So 400 pixels is very narrow. A typical smart phone at 1080 pixels wide (portrait format). In landscape format it would be the same as a monitor. Some smart phones are much higher resolution, which would make it worse.

Sigh! Where has all the trust gone

Matching colours is such a tough subject. Made 10 times worse when you are printing on fabrics. I spent a lot of time trying to do this for litho and silkscreen printing and it never works that well. I must admit I don't know anything about printing on things like pillows but know something about tee-shirts, as long as you are talking about four-colour process and trying to match colours is very tough. The biggest problem is dot gain, which is where the dots of the printing enlarges when printed. This is a big problem on material, as ink soaks in and spreads. If you have ever spilt something on a new tee-shirt, you will be very familiar with the process . That is where using the correct printer profiles comes in. Another problem is that the "white" of the fabric varies. The last thing you want for matching is a computer that displays lots of RGB colours. Because no matter what is displays, the printer can't print. Printers use three colours plus black and can print only a fraction of normal RGB, let alone Adobe "full" RGB. What you need is a monitor that is calibrated. Using something like a Spyder colour calibration device, it will try and match what you see to what you print. That will mean making your display look dull and muddy, because that is what your print will be. Pretty much any computer screen can display CMYK colours but the screen will need to be calibrated. That means a proper monitor, a calibration device and proper software. So forget laptop screens and especially, forget iPads. Even then, I'm not sure how well this will work when printing on fabrics, but it will be a damn sight better than using an iPad. However, what are you printing? Are you trying to match something like a photo, or creating patterns. If you are printing patterns, then I would normally expect that to be done using spot colours so that whatever colour you want can be printed, just make sure you select the "u" (uncoated) colours, not "c" (coated) colours. Choose a colour from a swatch (Pantone) then you printer can match that because that is the colour of the ink. Trying to match it on the computer does not apply. Just design using spot colours from the swatch but again, forget iPad because Affinity Designer does not support creating in spot colours. Unless there is something physically wrong with you Mac, you would be better off to buy a separate monitor and a calibration device. I am not sure how this works with Macs but it works on a PC laptop. Or, if practical buy a Pantone swatch and use spot colours instead.