toltec
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Posts posted by toltec
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8 minutes ago, Lonely Tears said:
Supposed to help quality no?
Absolutely not!!!
Refine (as in Refine Edges) is designed to separate hair and improve edges after you cut something out of the background. It would probably make things worse!
Watch this
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Why did you click Refine after scaling the Owl?
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I’m sure it’s a bug.
I noticed a few times that bleed doesn’t bleed. From memory it’s normally when objects are 2 up, side by side, but there might be other times it doesn’t work.
Try a few options and list the results. You can then submit a bug report so Serif can fix it.
I’ll try a few myself. It’s an important feature for professional printing.
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45 minutes ago, carl123 said:
What is cmd+f ?
( or presumably ctrl+f on Windows )
I don’t think it’s a f. I think it might be a rotated j with a bar through the middle.
One of those fancy fonts
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4 minutes ago, firstdefence said:
To get a harder edge would it not be easier to just create a star shape, You can adjust the opacity of the shapes fill to get the star dimensions correct
Wot ‘e said.
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23 minutes ago, Lonely Tears said:
Quick question. I've outlined some star shapes and grown them to 2 pixels. I'd just like to fill that selection with a solid colour but the bucket tool doesn't do anything? It IS a pixel layer and I do have the correct layer selected.
It’s a lot easier if you make the outline selection then go Edit > Fill.
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5 hours ago, Junkbondster said:
I’ve been trying for days to figure out how to add a vignette with no luck. I’m selecting the vignette filter under colors and when I adjust any of the controls...nothing happens. What is the secret?
I applied a positive and negative vignette to a bird image. The grabs show the settings for each. Hope that helps
otherwise I don’t know why it isn’t working for you. Was the file opened as normal?
All the controls worked as expected for hardness, exposure , scale and shape.
Original bird.
A rather exaggerated Negative exposure.
An equally exaggerated Positive exposure.
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1 hour ago, GameProf said:
It's been almost a year, and this is a critical feature for me. Are there grids on iPad yet? I'm doing precision laser-engraving work, and I'd love to use Designer, but without grids, it's not going to work.
Thanks,
– Jeremy
Designer has grids
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1 hour ago, unwildbill said:
Windows 10. Loved the editing, old family pics, want to slideshow them at reunion! Using "Open with...", I'm offered IE or Affinity, but when I select IE, they still show up in Affinity!
What opens files is determined by the settings in Windows, but most apps like to take control and change the settings!
Right click on any picture (like a JPEG) and all the way down the bottom, click on ‘properties’. There is an ‘Opens with’ bit and a ‘Change’ button. Click on that and set the JPEGs to open with whatever program you want. That will apply to all JPEG files.
You will have to do it with other file types too, like PNGs I suspect.
Then whenever you double click, the program you chose should load the file types you set it for.
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There is a way that you might find easier. It works for me
First thing, run Affinity Photo, or Designer.
Drag up from the bottom of the screen to get the app bar.
Tap (give it a moment) and drag up Photos until the window floats above Affinity Photo (see below).
Go to Export in Affinity Photo and you can just drag the ‘JPEG’ icon (a generous term for it) onto the Photos window. It does seem to like to be dragged on to an album.
The Photos window can be dragged off the screen to the right, and should remain there. Just drag it in by swiping in from the right hand side of the screen every time you need it.
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Select the image layer, click on the fx Studio and it does put a border around the image.
Like my bird image above with a contour fx border. But it could have been solid.
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10 minutes ago, R C-R said:
No.
Very clear, and concise answer @R C-R
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42 minutes ago, goldie talks speech said:
It could be because the only way to save a pdf from silhouette studio is to go to print and then save as pdf from the print panel.
The Business edition of Silhouette Studio saves in PDF and SVG So If you need to do this often, it might be worth upgrading?
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As far as I can remember, in Photoshop, stroke path creates a border selection around a selection. It’s not what I would use for a border.
In Photo, you can add a border to anything by using the fx (layer effects) Studio. Select Outline and put a solid line or gradient border.
I’m not sure that’s what you mean, or want?
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1 hour ago, Trxr said:
I have resized an image to 2.5 x 3.5, but no matter what I do, the image increases dramatically in size when I export, either through email, google drive, or iPhoto. Any idea what I’m doing wrong? I suspect my iPad might be overriding the parameters of the file.
Thanks,
Jeff
I expect it is because you are thinking in ‘physical’ inches whereas your intended software programs are thinking in ‘quantity’ of pixels.
If you are looking at the document sizing option. 2.5 inches at 600 DPI is 6 times bigger than 2.5 inches at 100 DPI as far iPhoto etc is concerned. When it comes to pixels, quantity matters!
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4 hours ago, Brianmeg said:
I bought Photo (version 1.6.7) from the Apple App Store yesterday and viewed the welcome tutorial.
I'm using a MacBook Pro, mid-2010. 17" 2.66 GHz 8gb ram under MacOS 10.13.6.
I have tried to use the Undo Brush but note a couple of things, 1, that the version of Photo I have doesn't appear to work like that in the tutorial and 2, I do what appears to be the right thing but the undo function just does not work. I also note that in the tutorial there is mention of selecting an undo layer in the Adjustments menu but I can't find such an option so selected the tool directly as I'm still in an adjustment layer. Obviously I'm doing something wrong as all the other adjustments I've tried worked fine.
Anyone got any ideas?
The undo brush undoes to a particular step in the History. i.e. before you adjusted the brightness of the image.
To choose a history step, click on on the camera icon in the History panel. The brush will then undo to that point. I selected the Curves adjustment step.
There is no such thing as an undo layer. I think it means select a layer (camera) to undo to?
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The difference between Print and Press Ready is that Press Ready is CMYK. I think that’s the only difference?
If you want to show your designs on a website too,I would suggest using Print (RGB). There are other considerations too, depending on the type of printing process. Some fabric printers use more than the four CMYK colours to increase the range of colours they can reproduce, such an additional red and a green. Both hard to reproduce with just CMYK. Using CMYK limits the range of colours in the file, hence the reason RGB is better as it contains a wider colour range.
If you are creating vector images? DPI is irrelevant. It only applies to bitmaps, not vectors but set 300 dpi anyway. -
8 minutes ago, Kopernikus said:
When I create the smaller white rectangle and move it "under" my picture, the picture also has the white rectangle. Attached is my example. I'm quite close.
You haven’t masked the white rectangle to the image layer.
Put it above the image layer, right click on it and choose, Mask to Below.
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You must apply the Gaussian blur effect to the mask, not the image.
Once you have masked the image with the rectangle, expand the image layer (the mask layer will be nested inside) and make sure only the mask layer is selected when you apply the blur effect. Click on the mask thumbnail to select it.
See my first post.
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4 hours ago, Love2Design said:
Hmmm, that's really weird they said that then...
So the other thing I'm hung up on is seeing they said their printer can print red and green and cmyk though for a larger color gamut and an rgb workflow , how would the red and green part effect my work if I tried designing in cmyk? Cmyk doesn't have red really or green? If I design in rgb then the printer converts it to the closest colors.
I expect it’s a “lost in translation” thing.
Printers use CMYK as the basic inks because mixing them gives you most colours from inks. Mixing RGB inks just would not work, as I said, you cannot get yellow.
What they might mean is that their printer has additional inks, as well as CMYK. It is not uncommon for printers to have 6 or more colours to increase the range of colours they can print. I have a Canon inkjet printer that has 8 inks. As well as CMYK, it has red, green and a lighter ‘photo’ version of Cyan and of Magenta (for subtle toning). The red and green inks really help because oranges and greens especially, are very hard to produce with CMYK. The green ink is obvious and the red mixes very well with yellow to make orange.
That would explain why they use an RGB workflow. The wider colour range of RGB can be translated into CMYK+RG (might be more colours) to give a much wider printable range. If your image has already been converted to CMYK the extra colours of RGB have gone forever.
For that, calibrating your monitor and using Soft proofing layers should be ideal.
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Go to the Layer FX Studio and select ‘Outer Shadow’.
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46 minutes ago, Love2Design said:I asked them after that to be clear, "The printer is converting an rgb design then to cmyk inks?" and they said "No, our printer can print both, there is no conversion."So I'm assuming they must have a different printer then?
There is no such thing as an RGB printer.
RGB is light. CMYK is ink.
If you mix Red and Green light, you get Yellow. If you mix Red and Green ink, you get Brown.
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otherwise I don’t know why it isn’t working for you. Was the file opened as normal?
So the other thing I'm hung up on is seeing they said their printer can print red and green and cmyk though for a larger color gamut and an rgb workflow , how would the red and green part effect my work if I tried designing in cmyk? Cmyk doesn't have red really or green? If I design in rgb then the printer converts it to the closest colors. 
Fill outline selection?
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
P.S. Can you upload the owl. I’d like to try something.