toltec
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Posts posted by toltec
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No.
Some RGB colours just can’t be reproduced by CMYK.
Greens and oranges being a particular problem.
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1 hour ago, wwvuillemot said:
I cannot for the life of me figure out how to select a portion of the raster layer to scale it, and or move it. This is monsterously trivial with Procreate ... I am into hour two without any luck.
You are still in the Selection Persona, go back to the Photo Persona after you have made the selection and use the Move Tool.
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7 hours ago, αℓƒяє∂ said:7 hours ago, Psionman said:
instruction book
Book.”a written or printed work consisting of pages glued or sewn together along one side and bound in covers”.I despair of young people these days
I expect many think a pencil is something that attaches to an iPad -
4 hours ago, MyAmazingDiscoveries.com said:
I tried AirDrop, but it sent it to my Camera Roll. I want it to automatically open in Designer. Any ideas?
AirDrop should work, that’s what it’s designed for, but . . .
If both iPads are on the same wifi network, you can get apps (App Store) that transfer files using the local WiFi network. One such is Air Transfer.
If the iPads are not in the same location, use an online storage, iCloud or Google Drive. I don’t know about iCloud sharing but Google drive has a share option.. If you upload a file to Drive, you can send a download link to anybody via an email. The recipient just has to click on the link to download the file. I’ve used that quite a lot and it works flawlessly.
Google Drive comes with 5 gb of free storage, is included with a gmail account and of course, a gmail account is free. Unlike emails, there is no file size limitations (well, 5gb I suppose).
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4 hours ago, tkarl__nn said:
I agree completely. But for AP, you must agree with me that the vast majority of Tutorials are for Landscape Photography. That's not necessarily representative of Photography in general. AP needs a wider variety of Photographic Disciplines embraced with their Tutorials. Can we agree on that?
I think one problem is the lack of readily available subjects. These days you can’t just use people’s images, like you could a while back. You have to get permission which is not always easy, or possible, especially if the subjects are a bit unsure of what you are doing.. There are so many Photoshop users that there is a much wider image ‘pool’.
Generally speaking, landscapes don’t sue if you use their images
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Because you have selected every single node inside, you are not moving the inner shape, but actually moving every single node at once.
See below, firstdefence to the rescue
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1 hour ago, thomasbricker said:
What I mean by bitmap is in Photoshop you can save a grayscale image as a “bitmap” tiff, reducing the image to either black or white pixels. (With a 50% threshold or dithered affect)
It is only in that format that Illustrator “understands” a placed Photoshop file that it can “colorize” to any color you specify.
Graphic designers have been using this method for ages because printers like the simplicity of the file types being used for their stripping purposes.
Also, because the image is a bitmap tiff, Illustrator “ignores” the background color, making it essentially behave like a PNG or transparent Gif.
But that was then and this is now.
One of the beautiful things about Affinity Designer is that it understands pixel based and vector based information within the one app.
And you can add a Color Overlay effect to any layer, thus achieving what I was after.
What I wound up doing, was going to the photo file, and selecting the black pixels, copying them and pasting them to a separate layer, thus separating it fom the background. I then saved that file with no background as a PNG. I then placed the PNG in Designer and applied Color Overlay effect to the layer. This allows me to specify any color I want. So that works like a charm.
Now as we all know, when it comes to computer graphics, there are always about 5 ways to do any given thing.
What I’m wondering is, in the “Affinity World” there is probably some super cool way of doing this that I am not aware of.
What is the most efficient way of achieving this end result?
That is why I asked question.
Maybe seven
Out of curiosity, does it need to end up with a transparent background? You don’t need the images to be transparent to change the black in Designer.
I would
1. Apply a Threshold adjustment to create black and white only.
2. Apply a Gradient map adjustment to change the black to any colour you want.
If you really want a transparent background, when you apply the Threshold adjustment, merge the adjustment (click Merge on the top of the adjustment panel), go Select > Select Tonal Range, > Select highlights and delete them (white pixels) then apply the Gradient map adjustment.
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36 minutes ago, John Rostron said:
I could use a non-breaking space if I knew how to do so!
John
Text > Insert Character > Non-Breaking Space or press Alt + Space.
- Alfred and John Rostron
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1
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1
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It should work the way you think
Put the cursor between the 0 and the p and enter a value in the kerning box.
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19 minutes ago, shizumiaoki said:
Okay, so there is no way to mass select items within a group such as on the macOS version with holding down the CMD key and drag select? you have to select one by one?
You can tap on one layer, then tap with two fingers on a second layer to select both, plus all layers in between. Like using shift on the desktop.
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You would have to mask the bottom half of the ‘glowed’ ellipse and put half an ’unglowed’ ellipse over it.
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45 minutes ago, Frank Meeks said:
I have an iMac and my camera is Canon Rebel xsi. I download photos by using the SD card.
That’s OK, wherever you download your photos to on your iMac, you can work on them from there.
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After entering 820 in the first box, try clicking in the second box (where it says 312). If the aspect ratio is locked (the padlock in the middle) you won’t see both dimension until you do.
Then try with the padlock off.
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25 minutes ago, SigsCreations said:
sounds like control c control v is the best option. That I can do left handed and so don't have to take my hand off the mouse or pen
You could always change the ‘Duplicate’ keyboard shortcut to something like Alt + A.
One left thumb, one left finger, one command. No finger stretching
The Duplicate shortcut is in the Edit section for Designer and in the Layer section for Photo. Don’t ask me why
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Try Pressing Ctrl + J (Windows) to duplicate instead of right clicking with the mouse and see if that fixes it.
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1 hour ago, SigsCreations said:
Do I not have them docked right?
No
Drag the Studio panel to the right of the document window until it is highlighted in blue, then drop it and it will dock.
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3 hours ago, KarolinaBS said:I created some own styles. Then I exported to the iPad iCloud. And shockingly the file was as attached... Document again. Even when I wanted to import it back again I couldn’t! I think this is a bug ... and the attachment you sent me was from Affinity Photo... maybe that’s why...
I just tried from Designer, I created a few styles in a new category and exported them to my iCloud. I deleted the category from Designer (just in case) and was then able to import the category straight back into Designer from iCloud, so it’s not a general bug.
FWIW it showed up as a Style file with a Photo icon, like from R C-R so I think that is just how the iPad sees styles files. There was no Photo in sight when I did it.
Designer 1.6.1.40
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2 hours ago, iMac1943 said:
Hi toltec, when I start a new drawing, the setup I use is this:
Do you mean, for the screen printing, I should change the DPI to 72?
No, absolutely not!!!
Do not confuse the DPI box on the screen with Dots Per Inch on the page (fabric in your case). This is where it confuses people.
When printing (in greyscale), the printer uses varying size dots to simulate shades of grey. The bigger the dot, the darker the grey, the smaller the dot, the lighter the grey, like in the dotty image I posted earlier. Created in AP with the halftone filter BTW.
The printing resolution (measured in lines per inch) is actually how many rows of dots the printer creates on the paper/fabric per inch. The more dots, the better the resolution as the eye can’t see them.
In software programs they use DPI (incorrectly) to measure pixel density, or use (equally incorrectly) PPI for the same thing (DPI or PPI means the same on screen). But it is totally wrong as there are no inches on a screen. Well, there are, but they are never real inches as 72 pixels on a 50” TV takes up a hell of a lot more space than 72 pixels do on a smart phone. So using inches as a screen image measurement is totally daft, but we are stuck with it.
Pixels per inch is relevant for printing because you normally need twice as many pixels per inch as there are printer dots to create a decent image. If you are printing an image 2” x 2” at 150 lines per inch (which means 150 dots per inch being printed) you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. i.e. 2 pixels per dot. It doesn’t matter if you create it as 3” x 3” at 200 DPI/PPI or 6” x 6” at 100 DPI/LPI in Photo, it will still contain the same number of pixels (600 x 600) see?
Just ignore anything to do with screen resolution, but you can use the DPI setting to work out how many pixels you need when printing. So if you need an image 600 x 600 pixels for a 2” x 2” print at 150 LPI. If you enter 2” x 2” at 300 DPI, Photo will work out that you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. That’s a lot more useful when working out how many pixels you need for an image 1 5/8” x 3 1/4”.
None of that applies to your situation, because of the way you are creating the screen. On an imagesetter, I could have simply set it to create 45 LPI (or dots in every inch). In fact I remember once making a film at about 30 lines per inch for a special printing project and you could actually count the dots
).
Unfortunately, you have no control over LPI on your printer, so you will have to create the dots yourself.
You could do that by using a brush (as a few people have suggested) or make a screen using the halftone filter, as I demonstrated. The trick will be finding something coarse enough for your printer/silkscreen screen to reproduce. Either way, you will have to create the dots yourself!
BTW, what you set in the DPI box doesn’t really matter if you are printing vectors or text. It is for raster images.
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The target is the little target thing on the info panel. Like a circle with a cross in it, at the bottom of the three little icons. You can drag that to the image. The sampler (as @R C-Rsays) is the whole group of icons and read outs.
You can add more ‘samplers’ to the info panel and drag the target from each one to the page so that you can read the colour values from different places at the same time.
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1 hour ago, Fixx said:
Basically yes. But halftoning (% colours, if used) will need special treatment as needed lpi is so low.
So how does that relate to printing text ?
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39 minutes ago, iMac1943 said:
Thank you Fixx but I dont know what low lpi is. You also say it’s difficult in AD/AP. I think it’s a bridge to far for me.
Line Per Inch is how many dots a printer prints per inch of tee-shirt. The lower the number of dots, the coarser the image.
Lines is from an 19th century process, but it is dots now.
Unlike Litho printing which is typically printed with 175 or 150 dots per inch, silkscreen can only manage to print about 50 dots per inch. The screens are the limiting factor. However, with the way you are printing it on your chalk paper, I don't know if that process could manage to print at 50 dots per inch. You may have to go lower (less dots per inch).
That's why I suggested experimenting with the halftone filter in Photo?
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32 minutes ago, haakoo said:
pixel persona
You can use a Gradient Map adjustment.
Blue
To green
The Map. Set what colour you want using the handle on the left and the swatch.
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27 minutes ago, haakoo said:
I expect many think a pencil is something that attaches to an iPad 
Merge shapes and color separation
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
If you created the White, the Blue, the Grey and the Red as Spot colours, they would output exactly as you show above, each one on a separate film (which would be black) or plate. As long as you tick honour spot colours when you output.
Do you need to see them as separate black images in Designer first?