toltec

If you created the White, the Blue, the Grey and the Red as Spot colours, they would output exactly as you show above, each one on a separate film (which would be black) or plate. As long as you tick honour spot colours when you output. Do you need to see them as separate black images in Designer first?

No. Some RGB colours just can’t be reproduced by CMYK. Greens and oranges being a particular problem.

You are still in the Selection Persona, go back to the Photo Persona after you have made the selection and use the Move Tool.

Book. ”a written or printed work consisting of pages glued or sewn together along one side and bound in covers”. I despair of young people these days I expect many think a pencil is something that attaches to an iPad

AirDrop should work, that’s what it’s designed for, but . . . If both iPads are on the same wifi network, you can get apps (App Store) that transfer files using the local WiFi network. One such is Air Transfer. If the iPads are not in the same location, use an online storage, iCloud or Google Drive. I don’t know about iCloud sharing but Google drive has a share option.. If you upload a file to Drive, you can send a download link to anybody via an email. The recipient just has to click on the link to download the file. I’ve used that quite a lot and it works flawlessly. Google Drive comes with 5 gb of free storage, is included with a gmail account and of course, a gmail account is free. Unlike emails, there is no file size limitations (well, 5gb I suppose).

I think one problem is the lack of readily available subjects. These days you can’t just use people’s images, like you could a while back. You have to get permission which is not always easy, or possible, especially if the subjects are a bit unsure of what you are doing.. There are so many Photoshop users that there is a much wider image ‘pool’. Generally speaking, landscapes don’t sue if you use their images

Because you have selected every single node inside, you are not moving the inner shape, but actually moving every single node at once. See below, firstdefence to the rescue

Maybe seven Out of curiosity, does it need to end up with a transparent background? You don’t need the images to be transparent to change the black in Designer. I would 1. Apply a Threshold adjustment to create black and white only. 2. Apply a Gradient map adjustment to change the black to any colour you want. If you really want a transparent background, when you apply the Threshold adjustment, merge the adjustment (click Merge on the top of the adjustment panel), go Select > Select Tonal Range, > Select highlights and delete them (white pixels) then apply the Gradient map adjustment.

Text > Insert Character > Non-Breaking Space or press Alt + Space.

It should work the way you think Put the cursor between the 0 and the p and enter a value in the kerning box.

You can tap on one layer, then tap with two fingers on a second layer to select both, plus all layers in between. Like using shift on the desktop.

You would have to mask the bottom half of the ‘glowed’ ellipse and put half an ’unglowed’ ellipse over it.

That’s OK, wherever you download your photos to on your iMac, you can work on them from there.

After entering 820 in the first box, try clicking in the second box (where it says 312). If the aspect ratio is locked (the padlock in the middle) you won’t see both dimension until you do. Then try with the padlock off.

You could always change the ‘Duplicate’ keyboard shortcut to something like Alt + A. One left thumb, one left finger, one command. No finger stretching The Duplicate shortcut is in the Edit section for Designer and in the Layer section for Photo. Don’t ask me why

Try Pressing Ctrl + J (Windows) to duplicate instead of right clicking with the mouse and see if that fixes it.

No Drag the Studio panel to the right of the document window until it is highlighted in blue, then drop it and it will dock.

I just tried from Designer, I created a few styles in a new category and exported them to my iCloud. I deleted the category from Designer (just in case) and was then able to import the category straight back into Designer from iCloud, so it’s not a general bug. FWIW it showed up as a Style file with a Photo icon, like from R C-R so I think that is just how the iPad sees styles files. There was no Photo in sight when I did it. Designer 1.6.1.40

No, not yet.

No, absolutely not!!! Do not confuse the DPI box on the screen with Dots Per Inch on the page (fabric in your case). This is where it confuses people. When printing (in greyscale), the printer uses varying size dots to simulate shades of grey. The bigger the dot, the darker the grey, the smaller the dot, the lighter the grey, like in the dotty image I posted earlier. Created in AP with the halftone filter BTW. The printing resolution (measured in lines per inch) is actually how many rows of dots the printer creates on the paper/fabric per inch. The more dots, the better the resolution as the eye can’t see them. In software programs they use DPI (incorrectly) to measure pixel density, or use (equally incorrectly) PPI for the same thing (DPI or PPI means the same on screen). But it is totally wrong as there are no inches on a screen. Well, there are, but they are never real inches as 72 pixels on a 50” TV takes up a hell of a lot more space than 72 pixels do on a smart phone. So using inches as a screen image measurement is totally daft, but we are stuck with it. Pixels per inch is relevant for printing because you normally need twice as many pixels per inch as there are printer dots to create a decent image. If you are printing an image 2” x 2” at 150 lines per inch (which means 150 dots per inch being printed) you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. i.e. 2 pixels per dot. It doesn’t matter if you create it as 3” x 3” at 200 DPI/PPI or 6” x 6” at 100 DPI/LPI in Photo, it will still contain the same number of pixels (600 x 600) see? Just ignore anything to do with screen resolution, but you can use the DPI setting to work out how many pixels you need when printing. So if you need an image 600 x 600 pixels for a 2” x 2” print at 150 LPI. If you enter 2” x 2” at 300 DPI, Photo will work out that you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. That’s a lot more useful when working out how many pixels you need for an image 1 5/8” x 3 1/4”. None of that applies to your situation, because of the way you are creating the screen. On an imagesetter, I could have simply set it to create 45 LPI (or dots in every inch). In fact I remember once making a film at about 30 lines per inch for a special printing project and you could actually count the dots ). Unfortunately, you have no control over LPI on your printer, so you will have to create the dots yourself. You could do that by using a brush (as a few people have suggested) or make a screen using the halftone filter, as I demonstrated. The trick will be finding something coarse enough for your printer/silkscreen screen to reproduce. Either way, you will have to create the dots yourself! BTW, what you set in the DPI box doesn’t really matter if you are printing vectors or text. It is for raster images.

The target is the little target thing on the info panel. Like a circle with a cross in it, at the bottom of the three little icons. You can drag that to the image. The sampler (as @R C-Rsays) is the whole group of icons and read outs. You can add more ‘samplers’ to the info panel and drag the target from each one to the page so that you can read the colour values from different places at the same time.

So how does that relate to printing text ?

Line Per Inch is how many dots a printer prints per inch of tee-shirt. The lower the number of dots, the coarser the image. Lines is from an 19th century process, but it is dots now. Unlike Litho printing which is typically printed with 175 or 150 dots per inch, silkscreen can only manage to print about 50 dots per inch. The screens are the limiting factor. However, with the way you are printing it on your chalk paper, I don't know if that process could manage to print at 50 dots per inch. You may have to go lower (less dots per inch). That's why I suggested experimenting with the halftone filter in Photo?

You can use a Gradient Map adjustment. Blue To green The Map. Set what colour you want using the handle on the left and the swatch.