toltec

In normal ‘document’ mode, Affinity Designer works like a page layout program, such as Quark or Word for that matter. You set a page size, apply bleed, then place objects on the page. Neither Quark, Word or Designer (or any such program as far as I know) trims a page to an image placed on it? That’s why there are canvas based programs like Photoshop or Photo, which are based around an image and make that job easy. The choices are to use Photo (which is designed for that purpose) or use Designer’s artboard feature which does allow you to trim to a canvas (or artboard). Photo does not ‘clip’ if there is a layer that extends outside the masked area, hidden or not. Could that be your problem?

I miss the light user interface. To use the iPad versions of both, I have to stick stickers on the iPad edges or keep pressing the help (?) button. if I didn’t own the desktop version I certainly wouldn’t have bought the iPad versions. As it it, I don’t use them that much.

You could place a vector shape on top and change the Layer Blend Mode to ‘Erase’. That will make a hole where the shape was. It will erase everything below it, so you might want to nest it in the layer you make a ‘hole’ in.

It' simply a matter of typing it one one line and then adjusting the orange or green handles. The green handle starts 'Pete' See the position of the orange line in the (second image) to starts 'Est 1977' You can use baseline shift to move the text below the line.

The reason you can select Customise Toolbar or do anything is because Affinity Photo thinks you are already in the middle of customising the Toolbar. That’s why the menu option is ‘greyed out’, it won’t let you Customise the Toolbar twice! If you can’t find the Customise Toolbar panel to close it, try quitting the program, then pressing and holding down the Control key while you launch Photo again. You will get a Clear User Data panel, with the first three options ticked. Press Clear and see if that does it.

Try clicking on that

No! Photo has Personas, not all tools show in all Personas. In addition, the Context Toolbar changes, depending on what tool you have selected, so what you saw in the video may not be what you actually get unless you have the same tool selected. In fact, it is also possible to customise the Toolbar by adding or removing tools. Bear in mind too that many of the videos are a few years old, or created on a Macintosh. Don’t expect your version to look exactly the same as anybody else’s! You do have the latest version BTW.

Yes, Designer only, sorry Roll on Christmas

Photo on the iPad has a High Pass filter.

@TisErinHerself I think you could save the grid as an Asset. That would save you having to keep cutting and pasting, or if you forgot to load a "template" or didn't have one.

I have an Air 2 and it works fine.

Your mask doesn't look like a mask. It is all white?

The easiest way round it is to draw an object one inch on the screen. Or a ruler of some sort. Do not use the Affinity rulers for this!!! Adjust the zoom level in Designer until your drawn ruler is exactly one inch on the screen. The zoom level will probably be something silly like 132% or whatever. Now, whenever you want to view your design at 'full' size, just set the zoom in Affinity to 132%, and you will be seeing the design at 100%, although the page rulers won't agree.

No you were clear, but what you ask is impossible because your monitor is not displaying an inch at one inch. The issues is with your monitor (or its settings) not with the software. A monitor can display at many different resolutions and sizes and to a point, you are right, "Actual Size" is a bit misleading because Affinity has no way of knowing what "actual size" is on a display, like PPI, DPI and so on. The problem is your monitor/settings. What you will need to do is find a monitor (or display settings) that displays one inch at a physical monitor inch. @h_ddoes have a monitor that more or less does this, but you need to know the size of his monitor for this to be useful. If the display is on a 15.6 " monitor for a laptop, that is one thing but I can set my 27" monitor to the same 1440 x 900 resolution However, because my monitor is 27", at 1440 my inch is much bigger than an @h_d inch. Not that I'm one to boast What you can try is to change the display resolution of your monitor. I suspect it is currently at 1920 x 1080 (?). Set Designer in inches so you have a ruler as a reference, then change the display resolution of your monitor to something like 1440 x 900. You will see that the display inch varies in size a lot from 1920 x 1080, which is what I was trying to explain. Software simply cannot know the settings such as size, resolution or any adjustments you have set on your monitor.. In Windows, right click on the background and there is a choice Try setting your monitor to different display resolutions until you find one that closely displays one inch as one inch. Most separate monitors have a horizontal and vertical adjustment. You would be able to adjust that until hopefully, your monitor is displaying one inch at exactly one inch. If you are using a loptop I am not sure you can.

What size is your monitor? The problem with "actual" size is that there are the same number of pixels in a 1920 X 1080 phone as there are in a 1920 X 1080 50" HD TV. So how would the software know the exact physical size of your 1920 X 1080 display? In other words, you can't do it

Try View > Studio > Reset Studio

I assume you are using Photo, forget it in Designer. The answer is: Yes, it is possible but then, it is possible to climb Mount Everest without oxygen I used to do that in Photoshop for T shirt printing, where RGB (or CMYK) images were printed using 10 or 12 spot colours, when four colour process could not be used. Like on a red shirt. I did that using channels, but you can't do that in Affinity (no proper channel support) and I certainly wouldn't tackle it with an iPad. If you just want it for a screen image (not output as solid colours for printing) you could use 'select sampled colours' and create a layer from each colour. The problem is, you will get a lot of overlap, or missing bits, so it will take you a long time. It will also be almost impossibly tough on an iPad. It was quite tough on a Mac with Photoshop and a 24" monitor! My tip would be, use Photoshop on a big screen computer. Sometimes you do need to use the right tools for the job!

Hi Mark A quick explanation using the windsurfer as an example. 1. Load the background image. This will be the one that you use for the sea and the first step in the sequence. 2. Place the next image in the sequence, (File > Place) and Rasterise the layer (Layer > Rasterise). Don't worry too much about the positioning for now. 3. Make a selection of the surfer using the Selection Brush Tool. 4. Go Select > Refine Edges and clean up around the edges of your selection. 5. In the 'Output' menu, at the bottom of the Refine Edges panel, choose 'New Layer' and click Apply. 6. Place the next image in the sequence, rasterize the layer, extract him, and so on . . . . Once all the action steps are in place, you can use the Move Tool and reposition the surfers as you like. Notes: Step 5 will leave the original, placed layers intact but hidden, so delete the layers if you want to. It might be easier to select the sea, rather than the windsurfer (depends on your image) if so, do that and and once selected, go Select > Invert Pixel Selection before Refining the Edges.

Use the Document menu > Defaults > Revert.

Document menu > Snapping > Force Pixel Alignment

How good is your eyesight? I have an Asus i7 with a backlit keyboard (like option 1) and it is very hard to read the keys. The backlighting isn’t very good and the keys are much harder to read than a standard keyboard. It seems to be more designed for youthful gamers who like pretty lights than for actual people who need to type. I often use the laptop it subdued lighting or outside in bright light and in each case, the backlit keyboard is almost impossible to read. I ended up buying stick on letters. Looks a bit naff on an £1000+ laptop, but I do need to type stuff. I don’t think the specifications are different enough to matter.

Alfred, you need to get out more .

Oh yes, I was looking for that a while back but totally missed it. Should have gone to Specsavers

You can certainly reduce resolution but there is no sample by Colour Range on the iPad. Edit. There is a Sample Selection Tool on the Tools panel . I totally missed that The Desktop version can also select by Sampled Colour Range, but it is not as good as Photoshop as you can't do it from a selected area. Just the whole image.

There is a difference between Clipping and Masking., although both do similar things. I don't think there is such a thing as a "Clipping Mask" ? Clipping would be better for your purpose. If you clip an image, in a shape. You can resize the shape without image distortion Change the shape, without image distortion. Resize the image inside the shape Or replace the image inside the shape (without removing the old image first. 1. Drag the image to the nesting position of the clipping shape. Nesting position 2. To adjust just the shape, without affecting the image. Click Lock Children on the Context Toolbar. 3. To adjust the image size or position inside the shape, without affecting the shape, double click so the image's blue bounding box appears. 4. To replace the image*. Double click and click Replace Image on the Context Toolbar. * This only works with an image you 'Place' on top of the main image (File > Place). You can clip the background image but you can't 'Replace' it using step 4. You can save a bit of time on the process. 1 Create a shape. 2 Click Insert inside the selection. 3. Go File > Place and the image you load will be automatically clipped inside the shape, drag the Place handle to position and size it. This saves you having to drag the image on the shape to clip it.. All the other moving, sizing and replacing operations work as listed above. P.S. If you select the shape tool (or the Node tool if it was a hand drawn path, rather than a shape) you can adjust the shape. Maybe convert the shape to curves and use the Node Tool? In case the Groom didn't show up