toltec

Yes, it is a feature I'd like to see, if only because it would help the migration of us long term PS users. Using channels is quite common. I have come across a few others too, some like this I have found a workaround, some not. I must admit, I had to do one quick image for someone a few days back and reverted to Photoshop. I feel so ashamed :( I once created a 9 channel file for tee shirt printing. If you do have to do a lot, go for the one click macro!

Still three clicks but if after "Erase paper" you use "erase" in the greyscale layers blending mode, you can adjust opacity to vary the effect.

Well, that included adjustments to the grey channel. I assumed you wanted to edit it, like channel masking. Right click, greyscale layer, colours - erase paper, mask to below Thats just three clicks, how is that much worse than PS? How long does it take you to make one click? There are other ways but I think they all involve 3 clicks, sorry. And as MBd says, you could make a macro, then it's only one click! If I find a way with two clicks I'll let you know. Sure AP is not as good as PS at some things but it's better at others and costs a fraction of the price.

Several ways, depending on what you want it for but this might do it. I have found several ways to do a similar thing but i'm still learning. Right click on the appropriate Channel of the Pixel Layer Channel (not composite), called background? Create greyscale layer. Select the grey layer, adjust contrast, levels etc etc. Filter - Colours - Erase White Paper. Right click on the grey layer and select Mask to Below. You might have to invert it first? Voila, a mask on the Alpha. Not 2 seconds but under 30 seconds.

Let us know, won't you.

I wish people would forget about inches. i.e DPI (dots, per inch) unless they are printing. Printers use dots and an inch is always an inch. Displays use pixels and an inch is not an inch (at least not when you put the word inch side by side with pixel). How many inches does a 1920 X 1080 pixel image occupy on a 50 plasma TV compared to a 2540 X 1440 pixel phone? And thats only a 2K phone! If you want your image to fully occupy a typical monitor or HDTV at 1920 x 1080 pixels use an image 1920 x 1080 pixels. Make sure you are not over compressing the JPEG file. This is set to be 960 pixels wide. I exported it at 85% compression straight from Affinity photo as a JPEG and the file size is 126 kb. It should occupy half the width of your 1920 x 1080 device! With instagram, you could make it a bit bigger, i.e. 1080 or Instagram will simply reduce it to 1080 wide. I did this at 960 to see if it is half the width of ANY device you view it on. As long as the browser is set to 100%. It's only a stock photo and has been compressed, changed and compressed again, so not ideal.

There are two little vertical bars to the left of the tabs of each group of panels. Looks like the pause button of a VCR. If you click on that you can drag that group of panels off. You can "reassemble" the three groups and drag the bunch in one go by dragging the top one (pause). However, you seem to be working back to front. Put the main Affinity window complete with tools on one monitor, undock just the picture by dragging on the top (its tab) and just move that. No?

I'm not 100% sure that this is what you mean but does the "Reverse curve" on the context toolbar not do what you want?

I got my bank statement this morning and I can assure you "less is less".

Yeah, that does make a big difference. Out of curiosity I tried that in Photo and it didn't work for either for Z, Y or X. :rolleyes:

Wow. That's very impressive.

That's odd :wacko:. I have done that sort of subtracting a lot, is the shape not a vector ? Still, your ERASE method is well worth knowing.

Select both layers Layer - Geometry - Subtract

Well, I don't have that many fingers. OK, I might have been guilty of trying to oversimplify things :wacko:

I rather like the colour replacement brush but if the "colour" you want to change lacks "colour" it is useless. i.e. black, white or grey.

Affinity has many ways to do that. There are edge selection tools with some first rate "edge refinement" tools to perfect the outline. You can blend the edges (feather) to get rid of unwanted bits You can also use the pen tool to draw round the edges to do the same thing or combine all of the above. Alternatively, you could simply select the car and use an adjustment layer to work on it alone. That allows you to "switch off" and "switch on" the adjustment at will. Affinity has many ways to do many things.

I'll take the first four because that's fairly easy. A vector is a computer drawing that you can reshape, stretch, enlarge at any time without making it look pixelated and fuzzy. Even when you increase it's size a lot. Text is basically made up of vector shapes, thats why you can make a letter fill a screen and look sharp until you rasterize it, which turns Vectors into pixelated, bitmap images so it does look all pixelated at bigger sizes. Try typing small text on a layer, rasterizing the layer and zooming in compared to typing a really big letter. That is the difference between a vector and rasterized image. You merge visible layers to simplify things. If you save as a JPEG it does this automatically because JPEGs can't understand layers. 16 bit has twice as much colour information as 8 bit. 99 times out of a hundred nobody can tell! Colour management would indeed take a lot more explaining.

If you go to View, Show Grid there is a grid. Shortcut Ctrl ' (apostrophe) If you go to View, Grid and Axis Manager you can change it's spacing and all sorts of other stuff.

Like lots of mentions of Best Photo App for editing non-destructively. :D

You have to remember my age, sonny! In my day it was 15" CRT screens and I think a Mac FX which was state-of-the-art. But yes, I did end up with a 3 button mouse but Apple never implemented it as well as Acorn did. And the PC still doesn't, 25 years on despite copying Acorn's layout. Maybe things have improved with the Mac ? I just found Macs very poor at productivity. With the Acorn you could bring up a context menu anywhere, reverse direction with the right button or drag the window with it. So useful for moving around an image. Like editing around an image with a brush or the pen, middle mouse button to bring up the context menu, set things like opacity, flow, brush width, right button to pan, delete or move nodes. Much faster than waving the mouse around and it leaves the left hand free for modifier keys or coffee. You don't even have to take your eyes off the point of focus which again, slows you down. Don't get me wrong, you lot have done a simply brilliant job with all the features but image editing productivity could be a lot better. But then so could Photoshop. Nobody ever pays attention to that sort of thing though.

What you will see, always, is the top layer, not the selected layer Drag the bottom layer above and you will see that or turn off the view of the top layer and you will see the layer immediately below.

Well, contradictions aside ;) you would think a company that could come up with something like Affinity could manage an index, wouldn't you?

By tools do you mean the panels? Layers, Adjustments etc or the tools on the toolbar. Hand tool, Move tool etc. The panels just drag off and you can move them outside the Affinity window. As for the tools on the toolbar, go to View "Dock tools" and tick it off and you can drag it to where you want too. Tick on it again to put it back. It is also possible to double click in the margins around the toolbar to undock or dock it again.

I just tried with a JPEG file. Not HDR I right clicked on the "Background" green channel, (at the time there was only one layer) clicked on Create Greyscale Layer and immediately got a greyscale layer (grey icon) above the colour layer (colour icon) So it's not HDR. Small help I know :(

That would be a good place to start, although it would not help a People who don't know what things are called b The huge gaps in the help files