toltec

Well, I prefer Windows. Apart from the viruses, the ransomware, the resource hunger, the fact Windows 10 takes control of your machine for hours at a time the fact every time it updates, something stops working It's a close thing, obviously

I think you need to clarify that. Using inches for websites does not work either. At 1000 px your web image will appear at a very different size on a 52" tv or a smart phone. You don't need to use Photoshop. Us poor Affinity Photo users can do that too

No. You will have to use an online tracing service like https://vectormagic.com or use something like Inkscape which has a very good built in tracer.

There are over 200 videos from Serif but these 4 should point you in the right direction for "compositing" images. The fourth one is the most relevant for you but I do recommend you watch the first three first so you understand the basics of sizes, layers and placing multiple images in one file. Affinity Photo - Document Setup Affinity Photo - Layers Overview Affinity Photo - Placing Images Affinity Photo - Cutting Out They are on youtube and vimeo so just google them. Note, after placing images (third video), the placed images will be "Image" layers. That prevents a lot of editing so select each placed image layer and go Layer > Rasterise. Don't worry about why for now. If you get stuck, just ask

Yes.

The resolution (pixel size) is set by the size you entered in Pixels in document setup. The DPI has no effect at all on resolution. If you used a page size (like A4) the dpi would affect things i.e. If you create a bitmap inside Designer at two inches wide, it should be 800 pixels wide if the document is set at 400 dpi. It should be 600 pixels wide if the document is set at 300 dpi. That is the theory. That is the only time the dpi affects the size. The dpi does affect how Designer sizes the image when you import (place) it. If you set a 4 inch wide picture at 300 dpi, it should be placed in your 300 dpi affinity document at 4 inches wide. If you set it 72 dpi, even if it is the same pixel size, it would be placed at a different size. See the picture. Exactly the same file, but the top one is set at 300dpi and arrived at 4 inches wide (place), the bottom was changed to 72 dpi (at the same pixel resolution). and arrived much bigger. If you set the pixel size of your document to 6000 x 4000 (or much, much bigger) the file would be much, much larger, no matter what you put in the dpi. box. That only applies to bitmaps. Vector files will be the same.

Quite right right. Nobody likes being treated like a second class citizen. One thing about New View, if you don't pull the tabs off, you can have two zoom levels and press Ctrl + Tab to swap between views. I use that a lot as it much faster to set up than Viewpoints.

You can drag tabs off the toolbars and display them side by side. Go View > New View to get two views of the same document. If you press Ctrl J (duplicate layer) it will "Save Selection as New Layer."

Yes. You can paint on it You can also put something behind (or on top) and "merge the two layers, so they become as one. Effectively filling the hole.

English translation

I don't know if you can do this on an iPad. In Windows I typed the text put a black rectangle behind the text subtracted the text (boolean) Obviously, didn't do the fancy close together text but the principle is the same. Very quick and easy. Just an alternative idea.

It looks like Mac "Separated mode"? and one window has gone astray. You could try "altogether" mode first to see if that will reset things. I don't know about Affinity on a Mac. If not do as IanSG says.

If you start blending like that, to be honest there is not much point. 9 times out of 10 it would be cheaper and easier using 4 colour process. You are trying to mix too many processes. Spot colours and bitmaps (basically RGB) etc. I don't actually know of any software that does that except for silk screen printing stuff. Because T Shirts are often printed on coloured shirts, 4 colour process is impossible because there is no white background. The prints are usually many more colours, one of which usually has to be white. There is some very specialised and very expensive software for that. http://www.ultraseps.com

The chequerboard does not exist. It is just what Affinity uses to display a hole, because a monitor, like a piece of paper, displays white where a hole would be. Here is a document, with a hole (as indicated by the chequerboard display). Note, I did have to fake it by making a screengrab of the flowers AND the chequerboard, or the background would appear white on this page. Note: Only one layer, no chequerboard layer !!! It is just a display. To "fill" it, I placed a layer with a picture of a sky behind the flowers. The hole (as indicated by the chequerboard) allows the sky to show through. To fill the hole, just put any picture layer behind the image and it will show through. Just one thought. You haven't done a screengrab at any time have you? If you do a screengrab of an image displaying the chequerboard, it becomes part of the image. i.e. no longer transparent. That is what I did with the first picture of the flowers. Otherwise it would just have just shown the white background when I posted it. If you did, you need to delete it.

Not sure what you mean, but you don't crop layers. You crop the whole document, which crops ALL layers. Also, one thing to bear in mind, Affinity does not discard the bit you crop. It is still there. Go Document > Unclip Canvas and it will reappear.

Exactly, it's only a guide. Work the way YOU like. I only follow guides or rules until I find a better way Or, at least, better for me.

The chequerboard indicates transparency. It is not a layer as such. It is a background. Any type of bitmap is on a pixel layer Text on a text layer A shape on a curve layer (although there are several variations) Adjustment on an adjustment layer Filter on a filter layer Mask on a mask layer. Lots of layers !! An "Image" layer is something else. It is an image that is "placed" (either you "place" it from a file or cut and paste something). It is independent of the main picture, it has its own resolution so you can resize it without losing quality. However, it means Affinity locks it from most editing. I think mainly due to exporting it again in PDF files but there may be other reasons. ? Look in the layers panel, if it says "Image" rather than "Pixel" then you need to rasterise it To edit an "image" layer, you need to go Layer > Rasterise. Now you can edit it like a normal layer, although it does still keep its own resolution. Technically, an Image layer is already a raster/pixel layer (bitmap), you are just telling Affinity you want to treat it like a normal pixel layer.

99.9% of the time this sort of problem is because, A, You have the wrong layer selected, B. The layer is locked, C. It is an Image layer. A. Select the right layer, B. Unlock it C. Rasterise it. If not, can you post a screengrab of the whole Affinity window.

I suspect your printer is printing a bit too small. It's not got any sort of "fit to page" or "best fit" option set, has it? Desktop printers are not brilliant when it comes to accuracy.

this is what the printer needs. What colour ink he uses decides what colour you get.

Why does it have to be rasterised? The problem is, when you Rasterise something, you are turning it into a pixel layer, which has to be RGB or CMYK. Or I suppose greyscale but I think all software treats that as RGB internally. it has to display it on an RGB screen. A spot colour has to be separate from that process. With your image Ideally create a white and a red vector layer set as spot colours and output as two spot colours. I don't know how you are printing this but remember, it does not matter what colour you design in when using spot colours. Your printer will need the red and the white as solid black films. That is all spot colours are when he makes the films or plates. Even CMYK are just 4 solid black films (with dots to simulate greys). Years ago I used to do spot colour printing from a program that only did CMYK separations, I used to set everything as black and magenta (sometimes plus cyan). I still ended up with two perfect (100% black) spot colour films. I just put PMS 245 (or whatever) ink on the "magenta" plate, If the white letter in the middle is cut out, it will be grey then? Where the background shows through.

Should not get any panel. This is Develop on mine. Windows 1.5.2.69. I just selected the layer and pressed "Develop"

Where it says Light 1. Add a spot Click on the colour bar under "spot" and change it More than once if you want. That's how I got three colours.

You mean like this ?

If you set the font, then go Edit > Defaults > Save it will remember the font you set.