toltec
-
Posts
3,560 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by toltec
-
-
Sorry, don't have the book
1, I think you will find your problem is due to Snapping.
You can control snapping by going View > Snapping Manager and/or using the snapping options to the right of "Snap:" on the Context toolbar. You can turn all snapping on/off by clicking on the Magnet.
2. With the Pen tool selected, click on the last node so it turns blue. Draw more nodes.
-
7 hours ago, jon515 said:
Good evening, I have Affinity photo for my iPad Pro, I was wondering what the benefit would be for the Affinity Photo app for my MacBook Air?
There are a lot more features in the proper Mac version. Not to mention use of a larger screen, more powerful machine (I assume) a mouse, graphic tablets, proper place to save files etc.
It depends on how serious you are about photo editing vs budget constraints. To my mind, it is well worth the cost, and I don't even get commission
-
1 hour ago, R C-R said:
Expanding slightly on what toltec said, to make this as simple as possible, start by duplicating the first rectangle with a keyboard shortcut (CMD+j on a Mac & I think CTRL+j on Windows) instead of copying & pasting.
Then, in the Transform panel click the chain link icon next to the w & h fields to disable proportional changes & click on the center anchor point. This lets Affinity do the math for you: enter w-(2*xx) in the w field & h-(2*xx) in the h field, replacing xx with the desired gap in the current document units. Your second rectangle will be perfectly centered with the desired gap all around the edges.
The same technique can be used to make the duplicate larger by the desired gap by changing the subtractions to additions.
Very clever. 5 star tip
Ctrl J is correct.
-
Only really by using the Transform panel and doing some calculations. i.e 20mm smaller both ways to get a 10mm gap all round.
When you drag the inner box the auto alignment guides will help you centre it in the outer box, or you select both boxes and go Arrange > Align Centre then Arrange > Align Middle.
-
30 minutes ago, Tekl said:
@toltec I know about those interactive shortcuts, but I can only use one hand at the moment ;-). My requested shortcuts would also be great for the shortcut buttons on a graphic tablet..
Then again, I find that my tablet relegates the keyboard to the other side of the desk. So the keyboard option is not for me but I certainly second your vote for Shift + [ ]
Indeed, it would be nice if they could be assigned to tablet shortcut buttons.
I must say, that as size has the brackets and opacity has numbers, it is a bit odd that there is no hardness control. Unless, like many Affinity features, it is well hidden and totally undocumented.
-
3 hours ago, Tekl said:
Hi there,
maybe I'm just blind, but I'm missing shortcut to jump to the next or previous brush in the brushes studio (suggestion: , and .). I'm also missing simple keyboard shortcuts for decreasing and increasing the brush hardness like the shortcuts [ and ] for the brush size. My suggestion would be Shift+[ and Shift+].
Greetz, Tekl
If you have Windows, hold down Alt and both mouse buttons and drag. Mac is Ctrl + Alt and drag
As you drag right and left the brush size increases / decreases
As you drag up or down the hardness increases / decreases
You can press a keyboard number like 33 to set 33% opacity, etc.
I can't vouch for a Mac, but on a PC, when you start to drag you can release Alt and the right mouse button. The size / hardness will continue to change until you release the left button
-
It will stay zoomed in, so you can just use the crop tool (shortcut is C) and draw a crop box. Double click inside the box or press "Apply" to crop. If ever you need, you can restore the "cropped" area by going Document > Unclip Canvas.
If you want to keep the original, uncropped image, and have a cropped version. The easiest solution is to draw a selection marquee around the area you like.
Press Ctrl C (to copy)
Go File > New From Clipboard.
That will create a completely new document from the area you like. You can save it, print it, do what you want but you will still have the original in case you need it.
-
If all else fails but it is a last resort.
Resetting lets you choose whether to keep your files or remove them, and then reinstalls Windows. To get started, go to Settings > Update & security > Reset this PC > Get started and choose an option.
NoteIf you can't open Settings, you can get to reset by restarting your PC from the sign-in screen. Press the Windows logo key Windows logo key +L to get to the sign-in screen, then hold the Shift key down while you select Power > Restart in the lower-right corner of the screen. After your PC restarts, select Troubleshoot > Reset this PC.
If you can't get to the sign-in screen, use a recovery drive or installation media to reset your PC.
You will have to re-install all your software. So it is really a LAST resort.
-
You should not lose any files but you do lose software. This depends on the restore point.
The trouble is, you may not be able to go back far enough. On system 10 you don't seem to get many by default. So bloated.
-
-
I would not do that.. that sounds semi-suicidal
Can you not try system restore or something?
-
Does it matter so much?
Make a duplicate layer and run the Mesh Warp Tool on that.
You can always run the Mesh Warp again to tweak or redo the original layer.
-
-
If I was you, I would try running Piriform CCleaner to clean up your registry. I've found it very good at cleaning the registry of stuff left behind, and removing rubbish in general. I've used it on numerous computers and never had any issues. You do get the option to back-up the registry first. Which makes sense!
It's never a good idea to mess around with the registry using information from a 17 year old website. That link is for Windows 2000. I suspect you are using something newer and very different?
p.s. You might need to run it more than once. I think the free version only cleans up so many in one pass.
-
11 hours ago, EGGON said:
Having only downloaded Affinity today, I am working my way through it and reading parts of the forum, it appears that I have wasted my money.
The whole programme seems to be in BETA and is not ready for general photography use. Take the raw converter as an instance. A converted file cannot be reinserted into the converter to further enhance it.
One has to start again from scratch and continue in the converter, covering what has already been done and then continuing beyond the original work to complete the conversion to what is required.
On straightening a photograph, there is no fine adjustment, it either doesn't straighten it enough, or it goes too far.
On cropping the shot, after cropping to requirements, the picture jumps across the window and has to be re-aligned centrally. I am surprised at some of the reports that it is one of the best programmes and is compatible with Photoshop. I'm sorry, but it is not. Photoshop is non destructive and by a moderators own admission, Affinity is not non destructive and that puts it only marginally beyond Googles own Picasa programme, which is now defunct. I'm sorry, but that is how I find it. I know that it is nowhere near the price that Photoshop is, but you get what you pay for.
Regards;
EGGON.
As a long time PS user, I had problems getting used to it too.
What do you mean by RAW converter? Affinity opens and edits files using what it calls a "Develop Persona" which opens RAW files and converts them into Affinity files. If you want you can load the "converted" files into Develop again and continue with editing them or edit them in Photo. What else do you need? If you have converted something you would not convert it back, would you. You use it and edit it.
I think the straighten option is pretty good. It does depends on you drawing the Straighten tool line accurately in the first place but you can easily adjust it afterwards. Click outside the crop box (or even redraw it, if it help) and you can fine tune the rotation. I have no problems getting things straight. You can also straighten by using the crop box, as you click outside and start to rotate, Affinity draws a finer grid to help you align to.
Whenever I crop something, it centres and zooms to the exact centre of the window?? Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.5.2.69
What do you mean destructive? Affinity does some things non-destructively that Photoshop destroys, filters, cropping etc. If you are just talking about RAW, you can save snapshots while working but that's only a tiny part of Photos capabilities. For some thing Affinity is better, some not.
I think Affinity have done a great job in one year. When PS was one year old it was sh!t and cost hundreds. It has improved year by year but cost me thousands in upgrades.
If Affinity has 75% to 80% of PS functionality but only cost 10% of the price (or whatever) you don't get what you pay for do you?. You pay way over the top for a few extra features with PS and will continue to do so, month by month forever.
And considering the pace of Affinity development so far, my money's on Affinity (literally).
- Mark Ingram and Mithferion
-
2
-
-
59 minutes ago, R C-R said:
Just to make things that much more confusing, when I do the clipping with the donut shape in AD 1.5.5 on my Mac, the interior of the donut shape does not clip the other objects unless I change its total angle to less than 360° (producing a slit in the donut), & then it does:
This does not happen when I use a cog with a hole in it instead of a donut as the clipping layer so I assume this is a bug in the implementation of the donut tool's logic.
Edit: I just checked with the latest Mac 1.6.0 (Beta 7) AD version & the behavior is the same.
I tried by turning the donut into curves first, still the same.
Oddly, if I used the letter O it was OK
-
1 hour ago, MikeW said:
Seems to me they are just objects.
Yes the second one.
They are object layers in the Layers panel.
The same way adjustment layers are adjustment layers in the Layers panel.
etc etc
The common factor is "layer" therefore they are layers. Surely?
-
View > Dock Tools or Double click on the top of the panel.
-
What about a Compound layer ?
-
In the example I posted, I just clicked on this
or you could just go Layer > New Layer or press Ctrl + Shift + N.
Either option will produce a blank, Perlin Noise ready, pixel layer.
If you then just go Filter > Noise > Perlin Noise it will use whatever two colours you have selected in the colours panel. You can change the colours and the "noise" will update to reflect this. Once you press "Apply" it is set in pixels and can't be changed.
-
Ooh er.
Now, that is really weird.
I'm afraid I'm stumped with that one. Nothing looks wrong with the layer structure.
-
Try Layer > Merge Visible and see if that is colour. That is like a screen snapshot (not a history snapshot) layer of everything.
-
I just tried. Loaded an image, applied a recolour layer and exported as jpeg. A three step process
Works fine.
Have you done anything different?
Windows 1.5.2.69
Using a PNG or JPG in your vector art
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
Designer does not have a vector tracing facility, so wont convert pixel art to vectors.
There are online vector tracing services,
https://vectormagic.com cost 8 dollars a month but you only need one month
there are several similar services
or you could download and use
http://autotrace.sourceforge.net
or inkscape, which has a pretty good tracing feature and would certainly do that. That's what I use.
https://inkscape.org/en/