toltec

You can't but you can set a keyboard shortcut. I think Shift + Ctrl + X is best because it is not currently used and X pops up in two other colour change shortcuts. X to swap colours and Shift X to swap Line and Fill colours. Keeps things sensible. In Edit > Preferences > Keyboard Shortcuts select Miscellaneous from the second dropdown menu (File). Just type Shift + Ctrl + X in the box. Click Close and you're done. The other alternative is to use Swatches. There is a Black and a White swatch permanently on display.

Flow (I think) in English. Non! You can click on the letter "Flux" and drag, but no shortcut.

Yes, it does seem some tools go to Primary, some to Secondary. MEB ? You can always just press the x key to swap between the colours, but it won't solve the problem.

Have you checked the opacity in Swatches or Colours and the Context toolbar?

You might want to read this thread https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/45483-cannot-uninstall-reinstall-affinity-designer/

Not 100% sure this is what you mean but you can go Edit > Defaults > Save. Affinity will remember what two colours you are currently using and start with those, or use them in a new document. Although the documents will start with the Primary colour (bottom right) selected.

Not sure what you mean by "shade". If you have a group selected, the gradient tool will add a gradient fill inside the group objects.

Yes I know what you mean but no. It seems not. The easiest way to achieve that would be as dmstraker says but after making a selection, press Ctrl J to duplicate the selection on to a new layer, move the area, then press Ctrl E to merge the two layers. Same thing but you do have to press a couple of commands.

This one erases the overlay. Paint On / Paint Off In the Overlays panel you can add extra Overlays. Delete etc. Just like adding more selection areas. I quite like them but it a matter of personal choice.

In the job I mentioned (from memory) 100 of the 200 images were 6 x 4 photos, 98 were slides. The images had to be used at sizes from 2 x 1 inches to 5 x 4 (ish). Those 198 were very quick and easy to do in PS. It would be a nightmare in AP. I am not talking about radical resizing, just normal cropping and sizing to fit, mostly downsizing. The sort of thing some people need to do for hundreds of photos every week. AP can't handle that sort of work flow. PS can. If I had something that needed upsizing, I would treat it individually, different resampling methods, retouching, removing moire etc. In fact one of the "other" pictures was a slide that was drum scanned to fit on the cover, the other was actually a cloth puppet. I am not saying it must resize and resample, just that it must be an option. Work flow matters ! I don't do that sort of thing now so it doesn't matter but I would absolutely have to use PS if I did. Simply couldn't afford the loss of time. No professional can.

Well done! Pleased to hear you sorted it in the end

First point. Obviously, I would never consider upsampling. I never mentioned it. I am talking about making a photograph fit a specific photograph sized hole at a specific resolution. I did a book once for a University, around 200 photos, each picture needed to be at a different size to match the customers layout. The customer had used low resolution placement images to indicate what picture went where. I had to measure the size and then needed to scan the images (which shows how long ago this was) and size each one to fit. It was being printed litho using 175 line screen, so each image needed to be 350dpi. I scanned them all at 600 dpi (no other way, really). In PS, I just measured each image from the book, resized and cropped the images in one go. Easy. Although it took quite a while If I had to do it your way (or in Affinity) I would probably still be working on it Obviously, with a frame based DTP program it would be less important as I could have used the frames to crop. But that was not possible. The image size had to be spot on to stop the text re-flowing.

Would be OK as a quick fix if you could constrain the crop box. If you get the "shape" right, it easy enough to resample afterwards. At the moment it needs a lot of fiddling around.

Well, (another program I used to use) managed to do exactly that for a good part of 30 years. Set it to the destination size like 100mm x 100mm draw a crop box any size (now constrained to a ratio of 100 x 100) and . . . No sorry, that is it. A 100mm x 100mm resized and cropped image, Fast and easy and it seemed to be a professional quality result.

As carl123 said, use the perspective tool Quick example It is a lot easier to get it square if you set Source rather Than destination. You can draw the grid lines over the border, then apply will distort the shape to the grid. Otherwise you have to do it by eye. Don't use the outside grid lines or it will remove the border. As pic 2

It should absolutely be an option. Like er, other software. Otherwise you get that ridiculous performance I described above. Absolute dimensions is daft, because it is only absolute to a dimension. Not a crop area. The minute you set it, you can't adjust the crop. If you do set it in inches, it changes size depending on document dpi. You cant even set it, then scale up because Affinity does not constrain the box to a ratio. The minute you start to move it, it goes all screwy. If you need an image at a precise size and dpi (a very common operation). Affinity just can't do it? For litho printing it would not be uncommon to need 100 like that for a magazine or book. Web stuff can be the same, maybe worse So how do I get an image 100 x 100 mm at 300 dpi ?

The other big advantage of vector fills is noise. Surely the ease of applying a vector fill, applying a gradient and noise makes it much faster and you can edit it later, rather than having to recreate. And as MEB says, you can use the shapes as clipping layers.

Unfortunately, Affinity makes this very difficult. Go to Document > Resize Document and set the DPI to 300. Make sure Resample is NOT ticked. You are just telling Affinity to use 300 dpi as the base resolution. Go to Crop and in Mode, select Absolute Dimensions Set the units to millimetres, then enter the dimensions Affinity will not crop and resize at the same time! So unless you are very lucky, the crop area wont be anything like what you want. As a solution, for a 100 mm x 100 mm crop at 300 dpi. I found it best to do a freehand crop first, as close as you can get to the right area. Go to resize document, set 300 dpi and set one side of the dimensions to 100 mm. Unless your initial crop was spot on, make sure the other size is a little bit bigger to allow for a small crop). That will get you halfway there. Now, go to Crop, set the Units to Millimetres, set the Absolute Dimension to 100 x 100 Click Apply and that will get you a 100 mm square image at 300dpi. A very awkward way to do what should be an easy operation I know but it will do it.

I'm not sure if this will do what you want ? Each third of the scene has a separate (masked) adjustment applied. I made a selection of one third, then applied an adjustment layer. Repeated this for the other two thirds. Each third now has a separate adjustment layer. The adjustment layers are nested in the image to keep it tidy. To edit the top third adjustment. Double click on the layer thumbnail. To edit the middle third adjustment. Double click on the layer thumbnail. To edit the bottom third adjustment. Double click on the layer thumbnail. You can Ctrl + Click on the thumbnail to edit the selection area (mask). Not 100% sure about your inserting between layers? You could use the selections to split it into three separate layers. Make a selection each time (from the thumbnail) and press Ctrl J to get a separate layer. The adjustment layers would still be there as a targeted selection area for each separate layer. Although I cant see any point in doing that. If you add something (composit) it would be selected (masked) on its own layer and fit on top of the stack ? It would have its own adjustment. Although you could put it under the adjustment layers and they would affect it according to their own mask. If I put the boat below the black and white adjustment layer, it would turn B&W. The other layers would not affect it in that position due to their masks.

Incidentally, done in Photo I typed this using the Artistic text tool. Then selected the Mesh Warp tool and dragged the middle up.

What do you mean import? You can type directly in Photo You can cut and paste text. You can open a text file. Draw a text frame, go Text > Import Text from File.

To be brutally honest, you can't. Designer lacks any sort of moulding or distorting. You could distort it in Photo, but it renders the text as an image. You could convert the text to curves and edit the individual nodes, if you have a few spare hours but that is just not practical, unless you fancy a challenge. This sort of moulding is very easy in most drawing packages and will come to Designer, in time,

Ah yes, you didn't say and my instructions were for Windows. I cant confirm it works on a Mac although I think so. If you make a selection, it is easier if you copy it and make a new document but you can print the selection. Not the whole image. Draw a marquee, press Print and when the Print Dialogue box comes up, under Range: choose "Selection". (currently Document) Under Fit Type, Scale etc you can decide how to zoom it to the printers page, or not. Obviously it will depend on your printer and will look a bit different on a Mac

I remember many a happy hour trying to find out what typeface I needed to match. It prompted me to buy a book called "Rookledge's International typefinder" 1990. Over 700 typefaces laid out, categorised by serif, sans serif etc. Funnily enough, it is above my desk now, although I haven't opened it in years. There are so many now and of course each typeface is so easy to modify. Yes, tracing is best.

I think the problem is in your PC somewhere. We had a lot of problems at work with updated Windows machines. The new ones with Win 10 installed are much less trouble. (Less for Windows 10, anyway). I prefer Win 7 and dread the day MS stop supporting it As an experiment, why not try and download a trial of Affinity Photo. Just to see what happens.