GarryP
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Posts posted by GarryP
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As soon as you add an Effect to a layer, everything in that layer (including its child layers) will be rasterised upon export to any file type*.
There’s no way to stop this from happening other than to redesign the document so that an Effect is not applied to the layer which you don’t want rasterised.
In this case you can probably duplicate the text layer and only add the Shadow Effect to the lower copy.
* You can stop this from happening by selecting “Rasterise : Nothing” upon export (if available) but that will cause the Effect to be lost.
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As soon as you add an Effect to a layer, everything in that layer (including its child layers) will be rasterised upon export to any file type*.
There’s no way to stop this from happening other than to redesign the document so that an Effect is not used.
Someone may be able to help you with that but they will need to have much more information about the construction of the document, e.g. the document itself and a good description of your requirements. (The Emboss Effect may be very difficult to replicate without an Effect.)
* You can stop this from happening by selecting “Rasterise : Nothing” upon export (if available) but that will cause the Effect to be lost.
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I can see how it could be annoying, especially when the Layers Panel is ‘busy’ – all that drag+scroll+drag+scroll+where’s-it-gone-etc.
It’s not happened to me yet (fingers crossed, touch wood) and I hope it’s fixed before I have the misfortune to come across it.
(I wonder if it’s only happening to Windows users.)
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Here’s an interesting technique, if you don’t mind the result being rasterised, to create a ‘roughened’/distressed version of a shape, or some text, or various other things.
Note: Only for Photo (or the Photo Persona of Publisher), either V1 or V2.
Note: This only works well on simple single-shade backgrounds (because of the Gradient Map).
See attached video.
- First add a Live Procedural Texture of Urban Camoflage – the higher the Square Count the smoother the ‘roughening’.
- Then add a Live Median Blur – setting Preserve Alpha to ON may produce better results.
- Then add a Gradient Map Adjustment – make sure both middle gradient stops are at the same position.
- (Maybe add a very slight Live Gaussian Blur on top to ‘take the edge off’ a bit.)
Experiment: Try changing the Blend Modes of the various Filters/Adjustments to see what weird stuff you can make.
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57 minutes ago, MmmMaarten said:
Also auto-scroll is turned on. Auto-scroll is 'just' not working.
What I’m seeing in your video isn’t to do with Auto-scroll.
As I mentioned above, to the other user:
On 9/7/2023 at 9:16 AM, GarryP said:The “Auto-scroll” option you are referring to is used to auto-scroll the Layers Panel to show the layer which has been selected on the canvas
...it's not about scrolling the Layers Panel when you are dragging layers around in it.
The problem you and the other user are getting is caused by something different (although internally it might have something to do with it, I don't know).
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Make sure that you have “Save thumbnails with documents” set to ON in Settings / General, in each Affinity application – see attached images.
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Thanks for trying (I didn’t know if it would do anything but it was worth having a go, just in case).
Good to know that the software is working again after the restart.
It would be interesting to know if there were a replicable workflow which made the problem happen again in a consistent manner. -
Welcome to the forums @Cobra Commander
The “Auto-scroll” option you are referring to is used to auto-scroll the Layers Panel to show the layer which has been selected on the canvas, and is still there in V2 (as can be seen in your video).
What is happening in your video seems to be related to something else, but I don’t know what and I cannot replicate it.
Sometimes, after dragging lots of layers, I get a very apparent slow-down (fixable by a re-launch of the application) but I’ve not been able to get into a situation where I cannot scroll the Layers Panel at all while dragging a layer.The problem seems to be similar to this issue from a while back: https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/163166-layers-stack-suddenly-stopped-moving-when-repositioning-layers/
Can you try dragging the Layers Panel out of the Panel Group, so it’s a non-docked panel on its own (you can put it back later), and then do what you are doing? Does that make a difference?
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Welcome to the forums @slajerek
If you are using the Colour Picker Tool on the Toolbar – as opposed to, for example, the Colour Picker in the Colour Panel – the colour you picked will be automatically applied to the selection if “Apply to Selection” option is set to ON in the tool’s Context Toolbar.
(When an Image layer has a colour applied to it, it’s the same as using a Recolour Adjustment.)
If you are using that tool and don’t want to the colour to be applied then un-tick (uncheck) that option.
If you can’t see the Context Toolbar under the main Toolbar then use menu “View → Show Context Toolbar”.Note: The Colour Picker on the Colours Panel or Swatches Panel will not automatically apply the colour to the selection.
When you are using the Colour Picker Tool on the Toolbar, and you have already clicked to pick a colour, the ESC key will work the same as clicking, i.e. it will pick (and apply, if set to do so) the colour under the mouse pointer. (I don’t know if this is expected behaviour, but that’s what happens for me on Windows.)
Note: The applied colour will have no visual effect on Pixel layers, as opposed to Image layers or other types of layer.
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For power duplication to work, make sure that between the rotation/movement and power duplication (Ctrl/Cmd+J) steps you don’t select something else or deselect, otherwise the power duplication will think you have ‘started again’.
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You can use the Transform Panel to give precise sizes to layers.
Select a layer, go to the Transform Panel, and enter the Width and Height in the W and H fields respectively.Unfortunately you will need to do this for each Picture Frame individually as multiply-selected layers are resized relative to the ‘key selected layer’.
Note: Depending on the Picture Frame Properties of each Picture Frame layer, you might not get what you want/expect because of scaling/stretching. Be careful and check that each image still looks right.
(If you knew from the start that you wanted each Picture Frame to be the same size, and you knew what that size would be, you could create an Asset of a Picture Frame of the correct size and then just drag a new copy of the Asset to the page when required.)
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4 hours ago, tipforeveryone said:
Whatever you use like Add, Subtract etc with other shape will make both of them disappear (deleted)
In this case, if you select the Curve layer and then set the Fill Mode to Alternate (via the Layer menu) you should be able to use the Geometry functionality as required.
If you type fill mode into the Help search you will find more information about this, with a special note about imported Illustrator objects.
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You might be interested in this lively discussion:
The ‘pros and cons’ of each side of the debate have been stated there but a ‘consensus’ between users was not reached. -
36 minutes ago, Chakie said:
The 3D shape here is really a standard cone without a bottom and with most of the top cut off. When you "slice open" such a cone you end up with a perfectly flat surface
Ah, that explains it.
I found these which might be of some use:
https://www.cmrp.com/cone-calculator
https://craig-russell.co.uk/cone-calculator/You will need to convert your circumferences into diameters/radii before doing the calculation.
Then you should be able to create two circles – for the arcs – and a Pie shape – for the sides – and use the Shape Builder Tool to get the shape you want.
(There are probably other things out there on the web which will also help.)
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I’ve read the given information more than once and think I’ve managed to figure out what’s wanted, up to a point, conceptually, but I’m still struggling to understand the full requirements or how to get the result.
It sounds to me like you want to make what’s in my attached example A, but curved as in my example B (example is just a mock-up and not accurate).
Unfortunately I don’t know how the three given dimensions can be retained, while curving the design, without knowing the amount by which the design needs to be ‘curved’, while also keeping everything in proportion and the correct lengths.
Whenever I try to make one thing the right length, the act of doing so changes the lengths of the other things.Maybe someone else will know, but I suspect that you have come up against a limitation of generalised software which simply wasn’t designed to do this very specific sort of thing.
(I believe the thing you are trying to calculate is: “The ‘amount of bend’ by which the ‘sides’ stay straight, while the arcs are ‘concentric’ and ‘perpendicular’, while everything remains at the specific lengths, and the proportions are still correct”, which is beyond my meagre maths knowledge.)
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Do you only need to draw shapes that would have arcs which would both be parts of a (different, but with the same centre point) circle, as would be drawn by the Donut Tool when height and width proportions are constrained, or do things get more difficult?
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8 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:
Try the Donut Shape Tool.
I was going to suggest that but the OP wants to be able to set the exact lengths of the curves and straight lines, and the Donut Tool only does percentages and degrees.
There’s probably some basic maths that will convert to percentages and angles from the lengths but I can’t think of it at the moment.
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Right-click on the page you want to change in the Pages Panel, then select “Spread Properties” from the menu, then select the new page size and orientation that you want, then press OK.
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39 minutes ago, chriscaldwell said:
I attached another example to see if I'm more accurate in this shadow placement, just wondering if it should be more to the right of the floating device.
I would say that the offset of the shadow should be about the same for the device as it is for the air bed, in other words much further to the right and maybe up a bit.
You can measure the distance from the lop-left of the bed to its shadow top-left and then use the same distance for the offset of the floating device’s shadow.
9 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:Also, the rectangular shadow tapers unrealistically, I think.
If the image is from real life then the pool could be changing depth across its length, which could account for the ‘taper’ (I think).
Maybe the size of the shadow of the floating device needs to have this taken into mind also.
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In the SVG example it seems like all of the ‘lines’ have been expanded into filled/closed curves (as mentioned above).
Because of this, if you are not using Designer, it might be difficult to make the ‘lines’ thinner without re-drawing them, but to make them look thicker you could navigate the layer stack to a “Curve” layer and then add a stroke of the appropriate colour. Then repeat with other “Curve” layers.
Or you can use the Contour Tool to make them thinner or thicker, as mentioned above, if you have Designer.
Either way, you might be best prepared do this by doing a lot of ungrouping first as there are way too many groups in that design.
Once the curve layers have been ungrouped you can select them all at the same time and change them all at the same time. -
I was playing around with some stuff and found a fairly simple way to create an ‘offset fill’ effect.
See attached screenshot and use the settings as shown – make note of the Opacity of the White Fill in the Colour Panel.It’s probably not best for perfect results, and the output will be rasterised, but it may be useful for some basic icons.
Note: It only seems to work nicely with shapes that are a single curve, but someone might be able ‘fix’ that.
Note: You may need to tweak some settings when using different colours.
- TrentL, GaryLearnTech and pruus
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Export help!
in Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
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You will get the best answer to that question from your print shop as they will know what they need.