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D23

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Posts posted by D23

  1. I realise that DPI can be difficult to get to grips with but my method works for printing at a bureau.

    A test:

    I scan a photo at 1600DPI (to increase the pixel dimensions), bring it in to AP & change just the DPI to 300 & save it.

    I then send both photos to the bureau (photo 1 at 1600DPI & photo 2 at 300DPI - pixel ) & chose a print size of say 12" x 8".

    The bureau informs me that photo 1 will be a better quality print than photo 2.

    However, I've always understood that 300 - 400DPI is best for printing so that's why I change it.

    So if I wanted an extra large print I would scan the photo at a higher DPI.

    The above is probably all wrong & I welcome being corrected & educated.

  2. I recently watched the tutorial video on macros. I hadn't used them before so I gave it a go.
    I tend to specialize in restoring vintage photos & one of my regular procedures in Photo is to reduce the DPI to 300 without changing the pixel size of the photo.
    This is required because when scanning old photos I often set the scan DPI to 800 or a 1000 in order to enlarge the photo.
    So the procedure is as follows: Select Document/Resize Document, untick Resample, change DPI TO 300, click Resize.
    I recorded this as a macro but surprisingly found that it changed both the DPI and the pixel size.
    Original Document size is 5665 x 3423 DPI 1000
    Running the macro resulted in a pixel size of 4960 x 2965 DPI 300
    Why is this? Where have I gone wrong?

  3. I tend to specialize in restoring vintage photos & Affinity Photo is excellent for that.
    Sometimes the only image I can get is photocopied so that when I scan it the result shows halftone dots & suffers from the Moire effect.
    Affinity's FFT Denoise filter usually takes care of that but I don't really understand how to use it properly. In the dialog box there are various settings available to do with brush size/hardness/flow/opacity etc but I'd like to know more on how to use these & which points to click on (or not).
    I saw one of Affinity's video tutorials which shows it in operation (and a few posts in the forum) but it doesn't explain how different settings affect the result.
    Are there any other guides to using this very useful tool?

  4. Hi

    I use Photo predominantly for restoration of old photos & I find it as good, if not better than Photoshop, except for in one area.
    Photoshop's Dust & Scratches filter seems to be far better than in Photo.
    It maybe because I haven't learned to use Photo's filter properly yet. There isn't a tutorial (as far as I know) since it's a fairly basic tool
    but I get consistently better results with Photoshop.
    Would anyone have any suggestions?

  5. Hi

    Ignore this post. I'm an idiot!

     

    I'm not sure if this is the place to ask this question - if not, apologies.

    I tend to do a lot of vintage photo restoration for which I've used Photoshop in the past. However, I now find that I can do much the same using Affinity Photo. However, there's one part of the process I still use PS for because so far I've yet to find an equivelent method in Photo.

    The photo (Pic 1) attached is typical of a 1920s faded, discolored old photo. In PS I would first add a Threshold layer & in it's dialog box drag the pointer to the left until just a small area of black was visible.
    I would then click on this black area with the Color Sampler tool (leaving a target marker (1) on the photo. Then I'd drag the pointer to the right until just a small area of white was visible & click on this white area with the Color Sampler tool (leaving a target marker (2) on the photo.
    Now I delete the threshold layer & add a Levels layer. Using the black dropper in the Levels dialog box I click the target marker (1) for black & then using the white dropper in the Levels dialog box I click the target marker (2) for white. (see Pic 2)
    Next I add a black to white Gradient Map layer which results in Pic 3. (This is where the where the cleaning up begins - easily done with Photo).

    My question is: How can I achieve the same using Affinity Photo?

     

     

     

  6. Hi Folks


    Had a few crashes in the latest version of Photo (Windows) but only one sent off an auto crash report.

    Crashes happened when loading afphoto files. I load these by right clicking on the file in File Explorer & selecting 'open with'. This only happens intermittantly. No other apps running. Can't reproduce it. Has happened 2 times today, 2 times yesterday.

    See attached for details.

    Photo crash report.pdf

  7. I've been using Affinity Photo since it was released & it's excellent - so much so that I've finally discarded Photoshop.

    However, one thing has bugged me since I've been using it & that is the export feature. If I open Affinity Photo & then select File/Open & select a photo, when I later go to Export it the export location is the same folder where the photo is originally stored. That's all well & good.

    However, that's not the usual method I & many others employ. Normally I find a photo using File Explorer, right-click on it & select 'Open with' then select Affinity.

    When you do it this way, later when exporting, Affinity seems to have no idea where the photo was located, so I have to manually select it's home location. This is a pain.

    No other software I use does this, Photshop for example takes you directly to the photos home folder when saving.

    Is there any chance that Affinity could do this?

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