dmstraker

So you've just rotated your image and now have four nice transparent triangles in the corners. So what do you do? Here's a way of handling it:
Select/Alpha Range/Select Fully Transparent Select/Grow/Shrink... (Radius 1px) Edit/Inpaint This should select the corners and give AP the opportunity to apply its Inpainting algorithm. At best it's a perfect fix. At worst, it's a start and you can clone bits that are not inpainted so well.
 
You do need to do the Grow, by the way, as without it you can get missed pixels and an inpaint that is not fully opaque (I think these are bugs and have reported them - until the fix, you need the Grow).

Phew. I've just ploughed through the full set of in-house AP video tutorials, done by the most excellent James Ritson. To help me learn and provide a reference, I made personal notes along the way. Here they are, complete with links to each video, in case they may be of help for you. No guarantees and all that.
 
Update 25 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 23 March added.
Update 30 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 29 March added.
170314 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170325 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170329 Affinity Photo Video Notes V3.pdf

After resizing the canvas, another way to fill in the transparent border without adding a layer is with Edit/Matte. Set the border colour you like and click OK.

Phew. I've just ploughed through the full set of in-house AP video tutorials, done by the most excellent James Ritson. To help me learn and provide a reference, I made personal notes along the way. Here they are, complete with links to each video, in case they may be of help for you. No guarantees and all that.
 
Update 25 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 23 March added.
Update 30 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 29 March added.
170314 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170325 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170329 Affinity Photo Video Notes V3.pdf

I'm willing to bet that Aristotle wasn't much of a photographer, either! :D

Dave, thanks for the samples and especially trying my image. I see, and it looks somewhat like a really intense HDR, doesn't it? Thanks! I'll go through it again to ck on those white lines in my first attempt.

Back in the day, I would use online cartoon image converters to get an idea on how to have photos of real people as cartoon characters. But since anyone can design those sites, it may not be safe to download from them, so it's good to know of a technique in Affinity Photo.

Here's a way to make a kind of cartoon of an image.
 
Layer/Duplicate layer. Filters/Detect/Detect Edges. Layer/Invert. Blend Mode: Colour Burn. Add Curves above it all and pull up midtones. Play with Opacity to vary strength of effect. Interesting effect with landscapes and architecture. Not tried it on people.

Yes, that's the kind of thing. Looks good!
 
I tried with your original and got the attached. You have more white lines. Did you invert the duplicate or edges? Doesn't matter -- playing with either gives different effect.
 
Dave

Updated notes, covering videos uploaded 29 March. See top post in this topic (file: 170329...).

Phew. I've just ploughed through the full set of in-house AP video tutorials, done by the most excellent James Ritson. To help me learn and provide a reference, I made personal notes along the way. Here they are, complete with links to each video, in case they may be of help for you. No guarantees and all that.
 
Update 25 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 23 March added.
Update 30 Mar 17: File with notes on change up to 29 March added.
170314 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170325 Affinity Photo Video Notes.pdf
170329 Affinity Photo Video Notes V3.pdf

Attached is a simple tones bar that can be used in AP for:
Assessing luminosity of parts of an image. Constraining curves adjustments to specific tones. Variable luminosity-based selection and edit. Details on origin and use are included in a pdf.
mono-tones.zip

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

Hooray for Affinity Photo and for every single person working on it. At last a programme that is serious enough to let me slough off of the Adobe shackles.
 
Hooray also for all the enthusiasts out there who contribute and make this a dynamic and friendly community.
 
(maybe I should change my name to Henry ;) )

Attached is a simple tones bar that can be used in AP for:
Assessing luminosity of parts of an image. Constraining curves adjustments to specific tones. Variable luminosity-based selection and edit. Details on origin and use are included in a pdf.
mono-tones.zip

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

Here's my notes on blend modes.
 
Any additions, corrections, pointers, etc. most welcome.
 
Regards -- Dave
-----------------------------------------------------
 
Update 10-Jun-17: Added version two of document
 
_______________________________
 
Update 22-Jun-17: Added version three of document
 
_______________________________
Updated 29-Jul-17: Added version four of document
----------------------------------------------------
Updated 16-Oct-17 in a separate post here.
_______________________________
Blend modes notes V1.pdf
Blend modes notes V2.pdf
Blend modes notes V3.pdf
Blend modes notes V4.pdf

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

Here's my notes on blend modes.
 
Any additions, corrections, pointers, etc. most welcome.
 
Regards -- Dave
-----------------------------------------------------
 
Update 10-Jun-17: Added version two of document
 
_______________________________
 
Update 22-Jun-17: Added version three of document
 
_______________________________
Updated 29-Jul-17: Added version four of document
----------------------------------------------------
Updated 16-Oct-17 in a separate post here.
_______________________________
Blend modes notes V1.pdf
Blend modes notes V2.pdf
Blend modes notes V3.pdf
Blend modes notes V4.pdf

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

One of the banes of sharpening, especially in landscapes, is that light lines appear around horizons, trees and so on, forcing you to scale back your sharpening efforts. This can be a nuisance when everythings' great, apart from those darned halos!
 
A very simple solution:
 
1. Duplicate the pixel layer.
 
2. Sharpen away. Use Unsharp Mask and turn up the radius as far as you like. Ignore the light halos around things.
 
3. Here's the magic: Blend mode: Darken.
 
Ole! The halos disappear!
 
So what's happening? For those who are not saying 'but that's obvious': 
 
Sharpening finds edges and makes one side lighter and the other side darker to trick the eye into taking greater notice of the edge.
 
In Darken blend mode, Affinity compares pixels in both the duplicate and original images and shows the darker pixel (not the lighter one). Any pixels which have been darkened will be in the sharpened, duplicated layer along edges, and will be shown. Any which have been lightened (on the other side of the sharpened line) will not be shown as the darker pixels from the original layer will be used. Any pixels not affected by the sharpening will be the same, so the blend has no colour-changing effect.
 
Just like that.
 
If there are parts of the picture where you want to keep the light edges in the sharpening, then of course all you need to do is add a white mask to the original layer (or between the original and duplicate) and paint black over the areas to keep this light edging.
 
Note: You can use Difference blend mode to see the sharpened area and guide any masking. Add a temporary Invert layer at the top to make this easier to see, if you like.
 
Corollary: If you blend with Lighten mode, you can probably use this one-sided sharpening to create a glow around things.

Here's my notes on blend modes.
 
Any additions, corrections, pointers, etc. most welcome.
 
Regards -- Dave
-----------------------------------------------------
 
Update 10-Jun-17: Added version two of document
 
_______________________________
 
Update 22-Jun-17: Added version three of document
 
_______________________________
Updated 29-Jul-17: Added version four of document
----------------------------------------------------
Updated 16-Oct-17 in a separate post here.
_______________________________
Blend modes notes V1.pdf
Blend modes notes V2.pdf
Blend modes notes V3.pdf
Blend modes notes V4.pdf