BiffBrown

Attached is Revision A of my Tutorial on how I process and edit color negatives using Affinity Photo. (See Revision B later in this thread for an updated version). My original tutorial generally resulted in good conversions, but sometimes the deep shadows took on a blue cast. That could be corrected during editing, but was not ideal. Rev. A corrects this problem entirely and results in better, more accurate conversions. The process in Rev A is different, but is simpler to implement. 
I do not own a dedicated slide scanner, negative conversion software or plug-ins. Instead of scanning, I used my DSLR, a 100mm macro lens and an LED backlight to photograph color negatives, which I brought into Affinity Photo in their original negative form. I shot RAW, but full sized TIFFs work equally well.
The approach described in this tutorial works with any brand color negative film and preserves the color relationships in the original negative. No special negative film profiles are required. This method works well for me and I hope others find it useful. There are many ways to process color negatives and convert them to positives, but this works reliably for me and yields an image that is easy to edit. 
Best,
Lou Dina
 
Processing Color Negatives in Affinity Photo-Rev A.pdf

I've added a deckled edge frame for use in Photo.
It is a Vector frame, created in Designer, Size = 8x10" 5:4 (203x254mm / 1200x1500px).
Copy the file to your picture in Photo and edit / resize to suit.
Feel free to improve.
 
DeckleFrame 8x10.afdesign

Thank you - I am pleased to know that it is specific to each image. It would help with understanding tone curve production if a future version of the program could have the facility to view the curve.

Hi guys, here's a new video about how to select human hair and animal fur precisely in Affinity Photo. I hope you enjoy and learn something new from this video, thank you!
 

Hi, @Dan C
Thanks for the prompt reply. 
Yes: disabling the Hardware Acceleration has resolved the issue.
Many thanks.
Biff

@Ron P.
I was looking for some answers on the forum and on Google. Found the video which answered a query others had made, so I posted it.
You're welcome.

The Light Leaks macros works on all image sizes in 1.6
In 1.7 it appears to work "correctly" only when your image is about 3500px or more (wide)
You can see this by extending the canvas around your small  image so the canvas size is, say, 5000px wide
If you then run the Flash macro you will see that the main effect is way outside your original image.

To "fix" it, before running the macro from the Library panel change the drop down from "No scale" to "Min Fit"  (some of the other options may also work)
Not sure if it gives exactly the same effect as when run on 1.6 but now the macros do at least work on smaller images
 

As long as you have the appropriate backups it might be worth an experiment
But for the most part, keeping individual JPG/PNG/TIFF image files in a well-organized file system and using File > Place rather than the Assets panel may be less work, and less disk space, overall.

It would be neat to have a Wiki for Affinity products. Start it off using current Help system, then let users extend it. As with Wikipedia, encourage a community of experts to sustain it

Dear Serif
I first bought Affinity Photo as version 1.5 in 2017. I can't remember how much money I gave you, but it didn't seem much. I'd been using Photoshop (hereinafter called 'the former product') but then Adobe introduced a taxation system (ach, ptui!) so I started looking around and found you. James Ritson's 200-odd videos got me to a new level and I was off to the races. It's probably a common story.
Since then, you've made all kinds of improvements to the product, often through listening to the requests of bods like me wittering on in the (very fine) forum. As a keen photographer and old techie, APh is now a permanent partner in my artistic endeavours.
But I'm worried.
I want and need you folks to both survive and thrive. I started my InAffinity channel on YouTube as much to spread the word as to learn and build a beer fund. Other good people have done likewise. But I don't know if this is enough.
During expansion, when Serif products are finding new customers, market penetration pricing can work to keep you going. However, a time comes when you may need to rethink your price policy. I'm not suggesting going to an Adobe model, nor the Luminar smoke and mirrors. In fact I'm not suggesting any magic formula, because magic is an illusion that can get you into trouble. But I am asking and hoping that you have a financing strategy that your customers will buy and which keeps you at the leading edge for the forseeable future and beyond.
And I, for one, would be ok with paying a bit more.
Yours sincerely
Dave

In this free Affinity Photo Tutorial I will show you how to completely transform and breathe new life to a flat, dull almost boring portrait. Portraits are my big love when it comes to photographic subjects. The thing is that sometimes I get a shot that I really like in terms of mood, composition and feeling but the image itself is dull, flat, and uninspiring. Therefore I chose to create a process that allows me to bring those photos to life and treat them the way they deserve, bringing to the light their full potential. In this Affinity Photo Tutorial I will show you this process so you can too take advantage of it and create breath taking portraits no matter what!  

Thanks for the input. I've downloaded your LUTs and found what I was looking for. 

You could have a look at the HaldCLUT colour tables (film emulations - B&W included) for Affinity Photo: it was brought up a few years ago:
Cheers,
Biff

Someone once asked  "If less is more, how much more would more be?"

Stop colors from bleeding on to your masked image.
A better way to mask an Affinity Photo beginner tutorial. 
 

And another thing (sorry, but I keep looking)
The Colour Profiles seem to be stored in /Users/Me/Library/Containers/Affinity Photo/Data/Library/Application Support/profiles (at least that is where my previous post put the ones I imported). 
Biff

I couldn't disagree with you more.

Bingo! You saved my life!  THX

Hi.
It looks like the problems lies in the file path to the Profiles folder. In the updated version it is now /Users/Me/Library/Containers/Affinity Photo/Data/Library/Application Support/profiles and not /Library/ColorSync/Profiles/ as in the older versions. You can use File -> Import ICC Profile in the Photo Persona to import your profiles: this will put them in the correct folder.
Biff

And another thing (sorry, but I keep looking)
The Colour Profiles seem to be stored in /Users/Me/Library/Containers/Affinity Photo/Data/Library/Application Support/profiles (at least that is where my previous post put the ones I imported). 
Biff

One click easy clouds trick Affinity Photo beginner tutorial.
One click easy clouds trick Affinity Photo beginner tutorial. With procedural texture you can create puffy clouds, soft clouds, and clouds with your own color background.
 
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Supplying the original TIFF file and a list of the adjustments that were made in the Develop Persona, and a version of the .afphoto document before and after using that persona would be useful, Biff.
Serif won't be able to log it as a bug without enough information to recreate the problem to allow debugging.

Since your Layers panel is not shown and an Affinity document has not been provided, I will guess that the pixels of the Pixel object have been made sightly transparent somehow. Try using Channels panel to fill the alpha channel of the Pixel object. If that doesn't restore the correct outline effect, then I think you'll need to attach the document.

Software can do 90% of painting output. But for 100%, artist is required i think.

I did this with Topaz Impression. Was rejected from a photo competition as the judge thought it was pen and ink...
Also some present edits in PS and recently using AP...
Enjoy. P.