PaulEC

You'll only be able to use bold and italic versions if the font installed includes those variations. For example, I have Baskerville BT installed with four variations (normal, bold, italic, bold italic), but Baskerville Old Face only has the normal version available.

I'd definitely agree with this. The two things that irritate me most about the Affinity apps are settings that don't stick when you want them to, and those that do, when you don't want them to! It would really be nice if there was some way to tell settings dialogues etc when you want changes to be temporary, and when you want them to stick.

I'm afraid I was wrong. I've stitched flat documents/screenshots before and it seemed to be fine, so I'm not sure why these are distorted! (Maybe being long and thin doesn't help?) I've just tried Microsoft ICE and that seems to give better results. It's no longer available from the Microsoft download page, but it is still available from Internet Archive - Wayback Machine. (https://web.archive.org/web/20180724063025/https://download.microsoft.com/download/7/3/9/73918E0B-C146-40FA-B18C-EADF03FEC4BA/ICE-2.0.3-for-64-bit-Windows.msi)

Best of luck. The way duplicates are created isn't ideal, but, like you say, as long as you check things before you make changes, you shouldn't go far wrong. 😉

As I said, the first one is the original, the second one is the copy. Don't edit the first one, rename the second one before you start editing it!

If there's no overlap on the images it will be difficult to do it automatically, but it's quite easy to create a blank document, big enough for you to manually add the screenshots (or whatever). Just line them up, then flatten, crop and resize (if necessary.) If there is an overlap the panorama function should do the job.

You might like to check out Affinity Publisher as well. Depending on the content you're creating it might be better for doing the interiors. (Multiple pages, Master Pages etc).

The duplicate is added after the original, so you know the first one is the original and the copy comes after it. You can then rename it as you wish. I'd agree that it might be easier if duplicates had incremental numbers, but it doesn't seem to be a real problem.

You don't have to, but sometimes it can help.

Another way, if you want an actual contact sheet of the pages, is to export them as images (jpg/png) then use Irfanview (or similar) to create a contact sheet.

Anything you want to show (eg the hair/head/body) is the foreground, the part you want to hide/make transparent, so you can replace it, is the background.

If you use the refine matte brush and it doesn't work as you wish you can try again, maybe with a smaller brush. Try just doing a bit at a time, rather than going over the whole image at once. Also you can use the foreground/background brushes to tell the software which is which. (Brush on the area not along the edge as you do with the matte brush.) Anything that is semi-transparent, including fine clumps of hair, may well cause problems, but you may be able to improve this after doing the cut-out. One other thing, if you don't already, always work on a copy of your picture, rather than the original. Then if you do screw up you can always try again! Also you can use the history panel to undo the cut out and have another go. It does take a bit of practise to get good cut-outs.

Yes!

That "red" is not part of the picture, it's just an overlay. You can change it to black, white or transparent if you wish. It just shows which parts of the image are selected. In the Output selection try using "New layer with mask".

FWIW - I've got this product and it is very good for adding realistic textures to photos. (Although I can't guarantee it will necessarily be right for what you are trying to do.)

That's true, but I think it would be quite possible to miss it on screen if you weren't looking for it.

I'm wondering if this is an original image by the OP, if not maybe it was "hidden" by the photographer in order to identify it as his?

Not sure what the problem is here! The Master Pages are named "A", "B", "C" etc by default and you can rename them if you want to. If you duplicate one that has been renamed (so it has the same name), just rename the duplicate before you change it.

This is another feature that is available in Publisher. If you have both Designer and Publisher you can use Studio Link to use features from both apps in your project. Publisher is probably a better app to use than Designer if you are working mainly with text and page layouts.

This isn't a bug. These options are in in the Text Menu in Publisher (as per your screen shot), but not in Designer. You could make a feature request.

Just in case anyone comes across this thread and is using Windows, the equivalent location is in the app data. The easiest way to find this is to use the Windows Key + R, then type %appdata% into the search box. There is an Affinity folder containing a subfolder for each app.

I believe that the reasoning behind having a limited range when using a slider is that it is easier to set an amount accurately. You can increase the settings by either typing in the value or by using the mouse wheel.

Right-click in the corner where the rulers meet to change the units. Look at the the Transform Panel or the Resize Document tab (shortcut Ctrl+Alt+I) to see the dimensions.

It would also be really useful if the last brush you used remained highlighted until you choose another one.

I assume that this is the same sort of thing that Jaspero is talking about - I've always found it odd that if you start with a publication with facing pages, put a photo across a spread, then change the document set-up to single pages, the picture is only on one of the two pages. I would have thought that it should still show on both pages.