PaulEC

I usually find it easier to use a keyboard shortcut for this, rather than trying to drag the layers. (Bottom: "Ctrl+Shift+[" - Top: "Ctrl+Shift+]")

Are you sure you are using the "Flood Select Tool", not the "Flood Fill Tool"?

That seems like a good idea, much easier than having to remember which page each chapter starts on, (or having to refer to an index).

The important thing to remember with "Edit in" is that if you close the app you're editing in, the file won't automatically go back to the app it came from, you need to either move it back yourself, or to save it from the app it's open in.

No, only the main one from each app. Some of the options and tools are also slightly different. StudioLink can be very handy, but it is really only for basic operations. not a substitute for using the full versions of Photo and Designer.

I'm assuming that if it is a photo, it is probably a pixel layer. The Transparency Tool doesn't work on pixel layers, so it would have to be converted to an image layer first. Probably the easiest way to fade an edge (edges) would be to use a mask with the Fill Tool or a feathered selection, depending on the exact effect required.

I know that saving to external drives can cause problems, but if that isn't the problem, the only other thing I can think of is that you are trying to include "illegal" characters in the file name (which is unlikely). Hopefully someone else may have other ideas for a solution, maybe mac specific.

Try saving to a different location, such as the desktop.

I congratulate you on being able to afford to switch to Adobe, just to save having to change the units. 😁 (Personally I agree that being able to set a default unit would be handy, but, for me, there are a few more important considerations when I choose which apps to use!)

Thanks for the info. I had assumed that if a new document was created in APub using a CMYK/8 profile then "printed" as a PDF with Primo, telling it not to convert it to RGB, it would end up as CMYK. I hadn't realised that APub still converts the doc to RGB at some point.

I'm not sure if this solves the CMYK/RGB problem, but in Primo's custom settings, you can untick "convert CMYK to RGB".

Going back to the original problem. It seems to work OK using PrimoPDF virtual printer. (The yellow area is the bleed.) [Edit: I set the Paper Size to A4 but if you set it to A3 it just scales the whole thing up!]

I'm no expert on commercial printing, but in my experience (with designing posters, leaflets etc,) yes, they normally print on oversize sheets, then trim to the correct size.

That's OK - It was just that you were talking about A3, A4, A5 etc, so I assumed that they were the finished sizes you wanted. Normally you would print on oversize paper, but obviously there's no problem if you are happy to have the finished posters slightly undersize.

I don't think this is a default shortcut, you have to set it yourself.

If you want to print an A3 poster the paper you print it on will have to be larger than A3 to allow for the bleed and crop mark area. As I understand it, N-Up places a given number of copies of a document on a particular size of paper. So, for example, if you start with a sheet of A3 and place four copies of your A5 document on it they will actually end up smaller than A5 as there has to be space to print the bleed and crop marks etc. You will need to use oversize paper to allow for the A5 doc with the additional space the bleed area takes up around each copy. However, as far as I know, there is no way to set an exact size for each of the four images when printing N-Up, as they are simply fitted to the sheet/paper size.

The "Flood Select Tool" ("Magic Wand") works fine for me, on Windows. There will always be problems using this tool on areas that have low contrast between adjacent areas, hence the need to adjust the tolerance setting. Also, low res. images will inevitably not have such sharp edges as higher res. ones. If possible, start with a higher res. image, cut it out, then lower the res. if you need to.

It isn't a bug! From the help file: "The Transparency Tool allows you to apply and edit transparency gradients to vector and text objects." (You can also use it on an image layer, which is, effectively, a vector object. Which is probably why you've been able to use it in the past.) You can get a similar effect on pixel layers by using a mask. However, as Komatos says, it doesn't look like this is the right tool to use for what you are trying to do. If you could tell us what you want to achieve, we might be able to give more help.

So why did you just post a screen shot that only helped with part of the query? Mentioning that more, "hidden", options are available seems quite reasonable, however, as you clearly have a problem with my trying to help with additional information I'll gladly remove my post!

The OP also asked about the inclusion of hyperlinks etc, "options for export (i.e. set raster DPI, check preview, whether or not to include hyperlinks, etc.)." hence my mentioning using the "More.." button! (It's also handy to check what is included, or not, in the various "flavours" of PDFs!)

Only Screen settings of Colour and Monochrome use the Dot options.

Sometimes you might find it easier to use keyboard shortcuts, rather than dragging layers, (especially when moving a layer from top to bottom): Move down - Ctrl+[ Move up - Ctrl+] Move to bottom - Ctrl+Shift+[ Move to top - Ctrl+Shift+]

I'm not sure if it is exactly the same, but this is my version! untitled.afphoto

View - Studio - untick Histogram. Or just drag the tab to undock it and click on the x.

Sorry if this has been mentioned already (I skipped through most of the thread!), but have you tried closing the Histogram tab to see if the file then opens faster.