PaulEC

Just for future reference, or for anyone else who may have a similar problem, just go to Document > Clip Canvas.

I assume oliiix must be using different software to the rest of us! 😄

It works OK for me, on Windows 10 with latest version of AP.

It's certainly a weird bug, as it doesn't seem to be reproducible. (I have tried several times!) Could you post a video showing exactly what you are doing for this bug to manifest? (Even a screenshot might help.)

My first thought is why the "i" is lower case, when the "D" and "B" are uppercase! Be that as it may, I would have thought that the best way was to do as Catshill said and convert to curves then delete the part you don't want. Alternatively (assuming the background is white) you could just cover the dot with a small white square.

Alternatively, you could replace the whole cap!:

You may be able to get an acceptable result using the Mesh Warp Tool and tidying up with the Clone Tool. I had a quick go, but you would have to take more care and do more fine tuning to get it right. (You'd need to select the area you want and copy/paste it into position, on a new layer, first, of course!)

I'm sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by, " it keeps the background, and leaves behind an imprint of the image". Can you explain what the "issue" is when you remove the background, as it looks like you have already done what you wanted to do, and have removed the background, leaving just the MacBook image!

I never realised you could space the nodes equally like that! This is certainly easier than trying to align everything on a grid (which is how I've done it in the past). To be honest though, I still think it would be handy to be able to set frequency and amplitude (I think those are the right terms!) and for the amount of point or curve (I haven't a clue what that is called!) for lines, without having to adjust the nodes manually. Maybe I'll suggest it sometime, but I have a feeling it was requested years ago and nothing came of it!

Perhaps it would help to look back at one of your previous posts:

You can't have transparency in a JPEG, use PNG instead.

Sorry, I was being a little "tongue in cheek". These are all shapes available in DrawplusX8. (There were some even weirder ones in some of the older versions!) – Possibly the most obscure shape is the phenakistoscope! The thing is there are a lot of shapes that could be useful occasionally, but I'm not sure how many it would be practical to add, or how many would actually get used very often. As you said it is possible to make these shapes in other ways, just not as easily. Actually, I think it would be useful to have wavy lines. (Yes, you can do them with the pen tool, but it's not easy to get them spot on.) But they would be better as lines, rather than shapes.

NB: If you have already created a mask, and still have the selection active, delete the selection before inverting the mask. (Otherwise, you only invert the mask within the selection and the whole thing disappears!)

I think you're right! It seems to work if you use the sliders, but not if you enter the numbers manually. ice_video_20220619-092327.mp4

I'd quite like a callout with bubbles! It would also be nice to have a few more shapes available. How about some of these?

Normally scroll, hold Ctrl to zoom works well for me. My only problem with your idea is that, if you zoom in so the page fills the screen, there is no space left to scroll without zooming out again.

The Sharpen and Blur Tools do not give the same effects as using filters. Sometimes it's better to use a Sharpen/Blur Live Filter on the picture, invert the mask, then paint back in where you want the effect.

👍

Hi @Pat Leong, Welcome to the forums. You don't need to deactivate the apps. They do need to be removed from your old Macbook (they are not transferable to another user), but I'm assuming that restoring the factory settings will do that. If you want to install the apps on a new Mac you will need to go to the store (Affinity or Mac) you purchased them from originally and download/install from there on your new Mac. If you are going over to Windows, unfortunately the apps are not transferable between operating systems, so you would need to purchase the Windows versions.

Why not just rotate the back 180 degrees! How you do double sided printing will depend on the capabilities of your printer!

If you're trying to save to an external/network drive try saving locally instead, for example, to your desktop. (And use a different filename.) It might be better (and more likely to get useful replies) to start a new thread in the appropriate forum section, rather than tacking this post on to one about beta versions. 😉

How do you click on the buttons without moving your mouse? Personally I find keyboard shortcuts easier to use than moving the mouse up to the Menu/Tool Bars. IMO, The History Panel is very useful, but if you don't want it, just do as you said and close it; as you can with any panels that you don't use/want! As others have said, I really don't care one way or the other about having a couple of extra buttons if other people find them useful. But it would be nice if they could be customised, so that they can be removed, to save clutter, for those of us who never use them!

From a quick look "Free convert" converts file types, it doesn't remove backgrounds. How you remove the existing background, to create the transparent background, will depend very much on how complex it is. It's much easier to remove a simple, plain background, with a good contrast to the main subject, than it is with a background with shapes and patterns or that is similar to the subject. It doesn't really matter what the file type is when you open it in AP, you can just save (actually "export" it) as a png in order to keep the transparency.

Just one small point regarding whether the layer visibility checkbox should be on the left or the right, (personally I don't really care if it's a tick box, an eye, or whatever). As it is, on the right, it is with the layer lock and fx indicators. Not only is it easier to "scan" if all three indicators are together, but it also means they line up vertically, which makes it easier to check which layers are visible or not. If it were on the left it would, I assume, shift it's position slightly on any offset child layers.

I like this idea: +1 I suppose this is a bit different, but it might also be handy to be able to save files, or save all, as a new version. (i.e. by automatically appending a numbered suffix.)