PaulEC
-
Posts
2,683 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by PaulEC
-
-
37 minutes ago, thomaso said:
If I hide the lower layer and replace it with a white layer I see the initial look (= the look of the hidden layer). – What makes transparency placed on top of non-transparency darken the latter? Why does the same (semi-)transparency not darken a white layer in the same way it darkens the original image?
If you add a white layer all you are doing is replacing the white that was removed. In the OP's example the upper layer (which has had the white element removed) is now mostly semi-transparent, hence you are "looking through" a semi-transparent layer at the original layer, which means that the darker areas now appear darker because you are looking at the original layer plus the semi-transparent layer above. (Areas that were already quite dark are hardly affected.)
"Why does the same (semi-)transparency not darken a white layer in the same way it darkens the original image?" – Because it is affecting a white layer (so it looks the same). If it is on top of the original image the semi-transparent areas are being added to the ones below, effectively darkening already darker areas, more than the lighter areas.
If you look at at the uncropped image, with a red, rather than white, background, the varying transparency is more obvious.
-
You can only "save" files in the native format, but you can "export" them as any (supported) file type you wish. There is no need to "save" and "export" the same file. (It really doesn't matter if you use the "save" or "export" options, it just depends on the file type you want to use!)
AFAIK no other software can open and edit the native Affinity files.
-
Quite simply "Erase White Paper" removes all the white from an image, not just areas of solid white. (It's really intended to remove the white background from a purely back and white image.) So solid white becomes completely transparent, black stays completely opaque, and all other colours/tones in-between will become semi-transparent in varying degrees.
In your example you are seeing the darker areas on top of (effectively added to) the lower layer. If you hide the lower layer and replace it with a flat coloured layer you can see the varying transparency more easily. A more controllable way to darken an image, in a similar way, is to duplicate the layer, give it a multiply blend mode, then adjust the opacity of the top layer.
-
If I understand the problem correctly, I think you need to be selecting the main figure (as you would normally to cut it out), rather than just the bit that you want to refine. (At the moment you are only selecting the area you want to remove/refine, rather than also selecting what you want to keep.)
-
1: Don't try to use "Erase White Paper" to erase anything other than pure white!
2: Light the original as evenly as possible. Scan, rather than taking a photo, at a high resolution. Sometimes it helps to scan twice, first right way up, second upside down, then combine the results. (Turn the upside down scan by 180 deg then "stack" the images. This can help to remove shadows on uneven paper surface.)
3: Use the Selection Brush tool, Refine, create a mask layer, then tidy up manually. Go in close and take your time.
(Note: Do not use the Erase tool, always use a mask so that you can remove and paint back!)
1 : N'essayez pas d'utiliser "Effacer le papier blanc" pour effacer autre chose que du blanc pur !
2 : Éclairez l'original aussi bien que possible. Numérisez, plutôt que de prendre une photo, à haute résolution. Parfois, il est utile de numériser deux fois, d'abord à l'endroit, ensuite à l'envers, puis de combiner les résultats. (Tournez la numérisation à l'envers de 180 degrés, puis "empilez" les images. Cela peut aider à éliminer les ombres sur une surface de papier inégale.)
3 : Utilisez l'outil Pinceau de sélection, Affinez, créez un calque de masque, puis nettoyez manuellement. Rapprochez-vous et prenez votre temps.
(Remarque : n'utilisez pas l'outil Effacer, utilisez toujours un masque pour pouvoir l'enlever et le repeindre !)
-
-
52 minutes ago, gabisan said:
Are they stored somewhere?
They will only be stored somewhere if you saved them. The software does not save copies by itself.
-
-
Hi @Neil P Welcome to the forums.
You probably will need bleed for the cover and the width of the spine will depend not only on the number of pages, but also on the weight (thickness) of the paper used. The only people who can answer your questions accurately are the printers who will be printing your book!
-
1 hour ago, Fritz_H said:
BTW: an option to completely darken the area outside the cropped part would also help.
-
58 minutes ago, Ulysses13 said:
At the moment the process is a lengthy export of the whole document or series of pages to a folder, where I have to find the image and copy and paste from there.
Select the page you want as a png then: File > Export > Current Page
I wouldn't call that particularly lengthy!
-
11 hours ago, Michael S Harvey said:
Sounds like a job for Serif's Scan Stitch and Share.
Thanks for that. I did use Serif's Scan, Stitch and Share many years ago! (I could be wrong, but I think it came free with an old version of PhotoPlus.)
Actually I did need to stitch some screen grabs a couple of days ago, 'tried using the Panorama tool in APhoto, but, again, I got a slight horizontal distortion. As it's not easy (possible?) to correct horizontal and vertical distortion (not perspective!) separately in APhoto, I used Microsoft ICE instead, which has options for planar motion, and it did the job perfectly!
-
1 hour ago, Dungarven said:
Thanks, PaulEC. What happens if you don't turn it off? I did a lot of work editing that text and hope I don't have to start over!
AFAIK (It's been a while since I've used Word!) If you turn off displaying field codes, it should just display the actual text instead of the field codes.
-
-
-
I'm no expert, but could you use a macro to change the dpi, and just set the new height in the batch dialogue window?
(Personally I'd probably use Irfanview for this sort of thing, as it allows you to set a new size for the long or short side while maintaining the aspect ratio.) -
Try: View > Studio > Reset Studio
-
21 hours ago, AlleyDukakis said:
I'm sick of messing with a sub menu.
I sort of get it with this particular menu, although I can't say a couple of clicks bothers me particularly. But if you extend this to all menus, it will either be a case of scrolling through dozens of items, trying to find the one you want, or having a lot more menus, that you have to remember and navigate. As a general rule I think having sub menus often makes it easier to find a particular item quickly and easily.
-
32 minutes ago, Michael Parsons said:
Does the .afphoto file contain the history of the changes.
Hi @Michael Parsons Welcome to the forums.
Sorry, the history is only saved in the .afphoto file if you specifically tell it to save it (i.e. tick "Save history with document" in the File Menu).
As long as the changes you made were not too drastic, you should still be able to readjust the white balance correctly.
(NB. Going forwards: it's always a good idea to work on a copy of your file, rather than on the original!) 😉
-
-
From a quick look, the apps you mention appear to be stand alone apps for phones or iPads, rather than plugins.
If you want a plugin to "play around" with various image effects, I'd suggest checking out G'MIC (https://gmic.eu/), which is available as a plugin for APhoto.
-
Could you upload the file you are trying to print?
-
-
8 hours ago, Uwe367 said:
If i save from a part of a file a file as .afselection and want to open it later for continues using, photo, designer and publisher tells me, that this is not an affinity document
You need to load it from the Select Menu, rather than opening it like a normal file.
"Erase White Paper" to a duplicate layer causes overall darkening
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
Sorry, not very clear, I meant that the dark areas will become darker, (I suppose really I should have said the midtones will become darker!)