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buddingphotographer

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  1. You're very welcome, so glad you found them useful @Chul! Thanks for the tip; I'm about to start working on a 2023 calendar, so I'll definitely check it out. It's my pleasure, @StudioJason!
  2. You're welcome, @Fuchsia! The calendar is currently set up for letter size paper (8.5x11). If you want to print 2 on a 11x17 page , then I'd suggest exporting the entire calendar from AfPub as a PDF file, and then use your print driver to set up printing "multiple on a sheet" or however your software does it. If you want to include the photos on the top, then... it gets a bit more tricky. I printed on regular 8.5x11 paper and then did a cheap coil binding. But if you want to do it all on 11x17, then I'd suggest making a new AfPub document at 11x17, and then drag-n-drop your exported PDF calendar file into the 11x17 doc. Make 12 pages, set the PDF page number for each one, and then add a picture frame on the top half. (See attachment). Keep in mind that if you're printing double-sided and folding that the photos will have to be on different pages than you might expect. It's actually kinda complicated to figure out, but I'm sure you can do it with some time and patience. (Look at another calendar to see what picture has to go with which month in order for it to come out right once it's all folded). Actually, Adobe Acrobat Reader (PDF software) has a "booklet" printing mode that might work for automatic collation. But in that case you'd need to export your photos as 8.5x11 PDFs mixed in between the month pages. (You can use PDFtk to mix/merge PDF files before printing).
  3. Hi everyone, I make a calendar every year for my large extended family with all the birthdays and anniversaries printed on their respective dates. I started this custom several years ago, and at that time used Microsoft Publisher 2007 to whip up a calendar template for the year, and then added text boxes with all the holidays and special dates. Needless to say, that was not a very efficient way of doing things... Every year I had to manually move every single text box to the new calendar and make sure they all were more or less lined up and evenly spaced. This year I suddenly realized that I had Affinity Publisher at my disposal! So I went searching about these forums to find out a better, more automated way to publish calendars. A few posts, such as this one on calendar automation, and this one on data merges gave me some guidance in the right direction, and eventually I figured out a way to make a calendar in AfPub using the power of data merge to do the heavy lifting of inputting the dates and the power of text styles to make it all look right. Needless to say, this will save me a lot of time in the future! I'm attaching an AfPub template and a sample .csv file. Anyone is welcome to use/customize these if they would like. I'm sure there are more efficient ways of doing things that I might have missed, so I'd appreciate any constructive feedback you might have to offer! Enjoy! If you have questions about how (or why) I did something the way I did, feel free to ask! Downloading the samples and running the data merge correctly should give you results that look like this: Other resources that were useful: Ubuntu Font: https://design.ubuntu.com/font/ Affinity Publisher Data Merge Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU98GmaQsFQ Deep Dive Data Merge in Affinity Publisher: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wav8wuucZUY 2022-afpub-calendar.csv 2022-afpub-calendar-template.afpub
  4. Thank you for chiming in! That's the conclusion I've been coming to. I'm not completely sure that it solves my problem though, wouldn't the running headers still overlap each other as pages are deleted? I'm thinking to simplify things, I should: Center the page numbers on the page Put running headers on separate Master Pages, and apply them last, after all the pagination is more or less solidified.
  5. If you were starting a new book project for a ~150 page book, how would you set up the Master Pages/layout? Background: I've published 2 books now (such as they are), and I kept running into issues when trying to add/delete pages in the middle of the book. It's usually not too bad if I add/delete a 2-page spread, but adding/deleting 1 page causes AfPub to completely repaginate and my Master Pages get all confused and layered on top of each other in a hopeless mess. (I was using running headers, and they got ALL messed up, because the left headers then got applied to the right side...) Another related issue was that I had each chapter in it's own set of (linked) text frames, so I had to manually paste in each chapter from the source document. If the author wanted to make some changes that affected the length of the chapter, I had to manually insert pages and try to make everything work out. Lots of tedious work shifting things around, and making sure nothing broke. The author later decided she didn't want all the chapters to start on a right-side page, but it was too late to change, because deleting all the blank pages on the left caused the issues mentioned above (overlapping running headers, etc) Here is what the Master Pages looked like: A 2-page spread for "chapter beginnings" [Blank on the left / Chapter Title and first paragraphs on the right] A basic 2-page spread for chapter text. (With page numbers and running headers) A 1-page "special" chapter beginning for when the left page isn't blank I'm thinking maybe I should have put the running headers on separate Masters that are added later? Surely there's a better way of doing things? What should I have done initially in my Master Page setup that would have avoided these undesirable scenarios? Summary. Here are the basic questions I'm wondering about: What is a good, simple master page layout that won't "break" when I need to add/delete pages in the middle of the book? Is there a good way to make the entire book "flow" without breaking it up into different frames per chapter? i.e. Copy and paste the entire manuscript all at once instead of chapter-by-chapter. (or better yet, is there a way to "place/link" the text into the book from the source doc so that when I update the text in the doc, it automatically updates in Publisher similar to the way linked images work?) I'm open to all ideas for a better workflow that causes fewer issues in the future. Thanks in advance!
  6. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I've learned a few things about how "color" works, so I guess it was educational. I found that selecting the region I want to re-color and using a HSL Adjustment layer gives me a bit more control over the fine-tuning of color. (Still nothing like I would have thought possible though)
  7. Thanks for the links, @R C-R. I agree, CIC is an excellent place to go for good technical info on all things color and photography. I understand from that article that there are theoretically ~16,000,000 colors available in an 8-bit RGB image. All I want is one color!! (actually, I guess it would be a gradient technically) I realize that "color" and "hue" are not the same thing, but I still don't see why that should prevent me from getting the shade of blue that I need. There has to me some work-around that allows me to adjust the other aspects of "color". I have to, if I want it to look natural. This is a wall in a photo, not a digital painting.
  8. Thanks, I'm beginning to realize that. If I do what you suggested, that's fine until I change the blend mode to "hue", then all of a sudden the "color" suddenly changes to a much brighter blue.
  9. Yes, I'm using a rectangle layer, but as far as I could tell, the principle is the same as a pixel layer. I originally used a pixel layer, then switched to a rectangle layer because it was easier to change the color on a rectangle for testing purposes. I tried reducing the opacity to see if that would bring the color closer to what I wanted, but it didn't.
  10. All I am trying to do is change the color of a wall from light yellow to light blue (as in the screenshot in my first post) I was following this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i45_kBOOqg (Color a layer, then change it to the "Hue" blend mode) It works exactly how I want it to, except that I can't get the shade of blue that I want (far left on the screenshot above) Any ideas?
  11. I realize that there are different gamuts, and I actually tried changing color spaces in the vain hope that I would get a different result. I guess my question really is: How do I get a variation on one of the 360 "hues" available?
  12. Hi guys, I'm trying to replace colors in a photo, and I'm not able to re-create the exact color/tint/hue that I want. Evidently "hue" only refers to approximately 360 different "colors" in affinity. (Pardon my ignorance of the difference in definitions). So am I seriously limited to 360 options for replacement? Surely I'm missing something, what is it?
  13. Actually, I've never used the Export Persona till this week. I found out that it does tell you if there's a conflict, but it overwrites the files, not rename them.
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