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buddingphotographer

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About buddingphotographer

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  1. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I've learned a few things about how "color" works, so I guess it was educational. I found that selecting the region I want to re-color and using a HSL Adjustment layer gives me a bit more control over the fine-tuning of color. (Still nothing like I would have thought possible though)
  2. Thanks for the links, @R C-R. I agree, CIC is an excellent place to go for good technical info on all things color and photography. I understand from that article that there are theoretically ~16,000,000 colors available in an 8-bit RGB image. All I want is one color!! (actually, I guess it would be a gradient technically) I realize that "color" and "hue" are not the same thing, but I still don't see why that should prevent me from getting the shade of blue that I need. There has to me some work-around that allows me to adjust the other aspects of "color". I have to, if I want it to look natural. This is a wall in a photo, not a digital painting.
  3. Thanks, I'm beginning to realize that. If I do what you suggested, that's fine until I change the blend mode to "hue", then all of a sudden the "color" suddenly changes to a much brighter blue.
  4. Yes, I'm using a rectangle layer, but as far as I could tell, the principle is the same as a pixel layer. I originally used a pixel layer, then switched to a rectangle layer because it was easier to change the color on a rectangle for testing purposes. I tried reducing the opacity to see if that would bring the color closer to what I wanted, but it didn't.
  5. All I am trying to do is change the color of a wall from light yellow to light blue (as in the screenshot in my first post) I was following this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i45_kBOOqg (Color a layer, then change it to the "Hue" blend mode) It works exactly how I want it to, except that I can't get the shade of blue that I want (far left on the screenshot above) Any ideas?
  6. I realize that there are different gamuts, and I actually tried changing color spaces in the vain hope that I would get a different result. I guess my question really is: How do I get a variation on one of the 360 "hues" available?
  7. Hi guys, I'm trying to replace colors in a photo, and I'm not able to re-create the exact color/tint/hue that I want. Evidently "hue" only refers to approximately 360 different "colors" in affinity. (Pardon my ignorance of the difference in definitions). So am I seriously limited to 360 options for replacement? Surely I'm missing something, what is it?
  8. buddingphotographer

    Auto increment file names for export

    Actually, I've never used the Export Persona till this week. I found out that it does tell you if there's a conflict, but it overwrites the files, not rename them.
  9. I don't know about anyone else, but I export a lot of "versions" of my project before I'm done with it. Every time I do, I have to change the file-name so that I don't overwrite it. I have used software before, (RawTherapee) which gives a checkbox to add an incremental suffix to the file-name to save me some work. I think that would be an excellent feature for Affinity, for Designer AND Photo, both of which I use frequently. Thanks!
  10. Ok, I guess that works, thanks! I still think it should be a simple enough thing to implement though. Having to "place" an image takes a whole lot longer than just dragging it into Affinity. I'm not asking for precise placement or dimensions; I just want to bring in the image at the DPI that my canvas/document is set to.
  11. Thanks DesignMeister, I guess I didn't make myself clear... I already have a document @ 300 dpi. Now say I want to add a photo to it, so I find a photo in Windows Explorer, and drag it into my 300 dpi document. Now, instead of fitting approximately to the size of my document, the photo becomes many times larger, and I need to zoom far out to see the whole thing, like this: The document in question in the screenshot above is a 300 dpi Letter-size (8.5x11 inch) document, and it looks like a postage stamp compared to a 16 MP photo imported at 72 dpi. I think Affinity is reading the "dpi" value of the photos in question, because I tried a photo that was saved as "300 dpi", and Affinity imports it as 300 dpi. All I'm asking is that Affinity ignore the misleading "dpi" reading that most photos have embedded in them, and import according to the dpi that I set when I create a new document. (Usually 300 dpi)
  12. Hi guys, now I have another question... :) I do a lot of printing, so I use Affinity Photo to create my print designs. Of course, I design with the dpi set at 300. My issue is that every time I add a photo, (drag & drop) it comes in at 72 or 96 DPI, which of course makes it WAY too big. I have to zoom way out and scale it down to fit my document. Is there any way to change how Affinity imports photos to tell it to import to the current document dpi setting? Also, I think there's a bug with zooming. I've crashed it a couple of times by zooming in/out really fast.
  13. Perfect! I figured it was something simple. Thanks so much!
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