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user_0815

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Posts posted by user_0815

  1. 3 hours ago, deepblue said:

    I have already worked through the individual tutorials on YouTube one by one. Some of the videos are based on version 1.8 and version 2.0. Now there is already version 2.3 and a lot has changed between the versions.

    Especially when it comes to cropping objects in Affinity Photo, I would have liked a video that was created with version 2.3.

    Cropping with the Freehand Selection (L) works quite well. It takes a little longer, but the exemption mask is great.

    But I'm still trying to figure out how and with which technique I can get the best results.

    Is the green background not so suitable for cropping?

    Then next time I would prefer to choose a white wall for the photos.

    For masking a colourful background isn't ideal because the colour reflects on the subjects.

    If you want a soft edge on your selection or mask, use the refine feature. (Verfeinern). When the selection is active, click the Refine (Verfeinern) button. There you have different options to make the best selection. This also works for both selections and Masks. See the video.

  2. I was looking for a similar thing, basically to create a mask from the brightness values of an image. Or convert a live luminosity mask to a non-live mask.

    Following the above steps I got to another solution without needing to go to the channels panel.

    1.  Add a live luminosity Mask on top with your settings as needed.
    2.  Merge visible – Keyboard shortcut ⇧⎇⌘E 
    3.  The merged layer is partially transparent. Make a selection from it – Keyboard shortcut ⌘Enter
    4.  Click on Mask icon to create a mask

    The merged layer can then be removed again.

    Step 3 alternatively could be  "Rasterise to mask" which is even faster. But that makes a different result. I don't know why.

  3. 51 minutes ago, R C-R said:

    Specifically, it is the File > Open Recent > More... menu command. Since I use it quite often, I changed it to just Option+O (where Option is the same as the Alt key on Macs), & set that shortcut for the other 2 Affinity apps as well. It still takes a little mental effort for me to remember to use Option+O rather than CMD+O but since there is no way to set the apps to default to opening anything but the New tab on start up it is better than nothing.

    Nice, I wasn't aware of the menu item  File > Open Recent > More... and set it to CMD+O. 👍

  4. I'd like to bring up another finding. By just Adding the HSL adjustment, there is a colour shift in red. No need to do anything else, just add the default HSL adjustment layer.

    As far as I am aware,  this happens when a new 32-bit document is created. Converting to another color space fixes it somehow, for example from Adobe RGB to ROMM RGB.

    How to reproduce:

    1. Create a new 32-bit document.

    2. Add anything of red colour, for example a shape or brush stroke.

    3. Add an HSL adjustment layer on top.

    When I create a 32-bit document form raw via the develop persona, the existing reds from the raw file ("Background" layer) aren't affected, only the ones that are added later.

    Setting the adjustment layer to "Invert contrast" at 50% opacity should make everything grey. But in this case it doesn't. That's why I think it might be a part of the current HSL funkyness. :D

    Please see the attached screen capture.

     

  5. A short follow-up: The aggressive ramp does also apply when opening files that were previously edited in V1. Using V2, the image looks different, depending how much of the HSL adjustment was used. It doesn't need much to get the unwanted funky look.

    Here a screen capture how it impacts opening a file that was created with V1 and is now opened in V2.

    First is Photo V1 where I turn the HSL adjustment on/off. Then I open that file in V2 where the colours are "rather different".

  6. Hi,

    Perhaps I'm the only one working this way, but I'd like to give this feedback anyway.

    When working with groups (or sub-layers in general), I often click on the top layer to see which of the layers are included in the group to have better orientation. In that moment, I usually focus on working just in side the group and I want to see what's going on in there.

    However, clicking on the top layer (for example the "Group" icon) doesn't highlight that little sidebar indicator. Only if I select a member inside the group, it gets highlighted. 

    In other words: Selecting a "Group" layer can be confused as a single individual layer. The sidebar next to the group members is there, but not "activated".  I've attached screenshots to better explain it. Note the grey bars on the left side.

    For me, work would be easier if the sidebar would be highlighted when clicking on the top Group layer – the same way as if any group member is selected.

    Thanks!

    Layer content indicator OFF.jpg

    Layer content indicator ON.jpg

  7. 2 hours ago, Dan C said:

    Thanks for providing a copy of this document for me - I can confirm I'm seeing the same behaviour, though this may be related to your Lens / RAW file specifically.

    I have downloaded a sample RAW file for the Pentax K-1 from Photography Blog, which is using a supported lens and the same issue does not occur -

    image.png

    Do you have any RAW images from this camera that are using a supported lens? Do you see the same issue when opening this within Affinity? :)

    Attached please find a raw file form the Pentax K-1 with the DA* 60-250 lens which is in the list you linked. 

    However, it does happen in any kind of file. For example I've edited a screenshot of an image which shows the same behaviour.

    Please note that it only happens in HSV but not in HSL mode.

     

     

    editing a screenshot of an image.jpg

    sample.jpg

    IMGP8151.PEF

  8. Drawing the mask 1 or 2 pixels inside the object works very nice for applying ~0.5 px blur. 0.2 px wold even be enough.

    Adding a stroke to fine adjust the amount inset would be nice as fine adjustment. But the blur goes away as soon as I add a stroke. Same when I use a separate blur live filter to the curve instead of using the effects panel. The stroke doesn't get blurred. See video.

    However, that's not critical to my work right now, I'm just wondering why.

    4.jpg

    3.jpg

  9. Thanks. This didn't work at first, because my curve didn't have a fill after creating it with the pen tool.. Previously I dragged the pixel layer on to the curve to get it clipped which doesn't require a fill.

     

    However, this didn't get me to what I thought it would be. I'm actually trying to get the edges feathered to transparency. It should blend in to the background a little better than just a harsh edge. Currently it adds white blur from the edge instead of making the edge transparent what I mistakenly thought would happen.

    Any Idea whether that is possible at all?

  10. 1 hour ago, Old Bruce said:

    100% means 1 inch (or cm) on screen equals 1 inch (or cm) in the document. Zoom to fit means the document will fit the window.

    Afaik it's not inch or cm but pixel.

    100% means 1 pixel from the document is displayed by one pixel from the display.

    1 inch at 300 dpi will be displayed larger (300 pixel wide) on screen than 1 inch at 72 dpi (only 72 pixel wide).

     

  11. Over the years I've tried several ways and apps for invoicing. At some point I stuck with the easiest possible way. A master template file which generates the individual invoices. The template never changes. The Invoices are saved via Save as...  and as a PDF. So two files per invoice. For ongoing customers I usually duplicate the last invoice and edit it. Each year exists in it's own folder. The template is on top and the finished invoices are listed below.

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