John Rostron

Yes, I do mean HDR Efex Pro. Since this requires several input files, how do you load them via the Affinity interface? All the other Nik plug-ins work for me, although I may have to rasterize a layer to get it to do so. John

I don't think that Nik HDR has ever worked with Affinity. It uses a different interface since it has to load several images. John

@dronecrasher, as far as I can see, there is little, if anything, to choose between these images. Super Resolution is quite time-consuming (especially when batch-processing is not working properly). Is it really worth the effort? Yesterday I took four burst-mode sets of four different subjects. When I have finished processing them I will report back. John

Dedicated scanner software (such as VueScan and SilverFast) will rotate only in multiples of 90 degrees. They are not general-purpose photo-editing programs. In Affinity photo, you can rotate an image in various ways such as: Use the Crop tool. If you select the crop tool, you can click just outside one of the corners, you will see a curved double-headed arrow. You can use this to drag and freely rotate the image. Use the transform Panel. Here, you can specify the rotation in degrees by the label at the bottom left. You can also choose the centre of rotation using the block of nine squares. John

Use Document > Resize Document (not Resize Canvas). Make sure the lock between width and height is intact (it is by default). Enter the desired width (or height) and click Enter. The height (or width) should appear automatically. You can enter a percentage instead of a pixel value (say 200%). You can select a resizing algorithm. Use Lanczos for enlarging. Click on OK to confrm. You cannot create a template or macro for this. If you try, it will always result in the same pixel dimensions as the one in the recording. Fine if that is what you want. It is possible to do what you want using Filter > Distort > Equations. Have a look at my Tutorial on this. A disadvantage of this is that you cannot specify the scaling algorithm. John

That is what I did. I did no explicit sharpening at any stage. John

I have now taken a 14-shot burst hand-held and without stabilisation. I stacked them at the original size, and at 200% using nearest neighbour. For the 100% stack, I could detect no difference between the original images and either the mean or median of the stack. For the 200% set, the image quality was noticably poorer (from the resizing?) and again there was no improvement. I will try again on a different subject. (My original was a close-up of Ivy stems and roots on a tree trunk.) John

Got to Layer > Merge Visible and it will merge your visible layers. Or you can select two or more layers and go to Layer > Merge Selected. If you posted your Question on the Questions Forum, then you would probably have got this answered sooner. John

Have a look at my tutorial on flag-waving. You might do something similar. John

Assume you have a 2100 by 1500 pixel Image. Select Document > Resize Document Ensure that the lock icon between width and height is intact For the width, enter 1400 (or 1400px); ignore the height (Optional) Select Lanczos as the method Click on OK This should give you a 1400 by 1000 px image. If you force it to 1400 by 1050 (by unlocking the lock), then the image will be distorted slightly. Leaving the lock intact keeps the proportions intact. John

Yes, just that. I am not aware of any other tricks. Obviously you need to reduce the opacity of the layer you are moving. John

I have just taken a 16-shot burst and stacked them. However, I then remembered that I had image stabilization switched on, which somewhat defeats the objective! I shall try again tomorrow. John

With great difficulty! Not too difficult for just a few, but super-resolution stacks are typically much bigger. John

You can change the colour mode within Affinity Photo. Use Document > Color Format > RGB (8bit). If you saved as a higher-bit, then use 16bit. Nik should work with 16-bit images. In Vuescan, use the Settings Input > Media > Color. John

But my ancient Sony A55 has a fixed, translucent mirror, so, I shall have to emulate mirror shake by hand. When the wind stops shaking all the plants in my garden, I shall give it a go. John

Yes, anyone can comment on any thread, You don't have to be a moderator. Feel free to do so yourself. John

I might try it on my cheap (ancient) fairly robust tripod. However I think burst mode is the way to go. John

I downloaded the image and selected just the window onto a separate layer. Applying the FFT filter to this made absolutely no difference. John

Yes, you are posting in the right place. Affinity Photo does offer a mesh warp style of free transform but there is no equivalent on Designer, which is why Callum asked you what software you are using. For scanning, if you use a separate program such as VueScan or the software that came with your scanner then, if you set it to save as .tiff, and if you set Photo as the default program to open .tif files, then following a scan > save, your scanned image will open in Photo. John

@R C-R and @owenr, I take your points. I was just going on the general resizing recommendations. Super-resolution is one of those things that look interesting and makes me think that I must try it some day. The problem seens to be in generating the subtle but non-zero displacement between each image. Perhaps a burst mode, hand held might do it. John

Select one of the Lanczos options. These are better for enlarging. John

The stack does not contain raw files. It contains the developed images from the raw files, which retain the original raw file name. If you develop any raw file, you can see this in the name tab. John

Are your B&W images greyscale images or just RGB desaturated? I recall that nik will not work on greyscales. Try converting the greyscale image to RGB. You might also like to check your scanner settings to see if it is saving as greyscale or RGB.. John

What you say may be true, but I cannot see the logic of it. (Even if it is true, I don't believe it!) Even Raw Therapee has to develop the image before scaling it, so 'scale the RAW file' is not what is happening. Unless you can point me to how I can rescale a raw file in Raw Therapee. I cannot find anything on this in the RawPedia. John

No, as @firstdefence said, resizing the raw has to develop it first before saving as a .dng, so you are not gaining anything. Providing you save or export in a lossless format (such as .afphoto, .png or .tif) you will preserve all necessary infomation. I would load each raw file, develop each using the same preset for each, apply, resize 200% and then save/export. Then you can load your files into an appropriate stack. John