John Rostron

In the book Real World Image Sharpening by Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe, page 259, for Photoshop they recommend: Set a Blur Layer at 100% opacity with a Gaussian blur of 0.2 radius. Set the blend mode to Darken. Now repeat the Gaussian blur four more times. I give this to you more-or-less verbatim. You will need to translate the Photoshop commands into Affinity ones. John

You can set up a batch process that reads a set of raw files, applies one or more macros to them and then saves in another format (including resizing). You need to be aware that the default development processing is not the same as a non-batch develop, but you can adjust your macros to obtain the desired effect. John

I presume that by 'the Affinity file', you mean the image you have in the Photo persona. No, the development process applies your settings to the raw file and converts it to the colour profile that you have set. No, because you have developed the raw file. What you are requesting is something like the sidecar files created by Adobe Raw. There have been (unsubstantiated) rumours that Serif is thinking about incorporating such a facility. But don't hold your breath. John

... in all but one of your images. Choose the one with the best focus. John

I will have to pass on that one! John

I have decided against providing these additional macros. Adding Merge Visible at the beginning creates a suitable target layer on top of the stack, but the original layers are still visible below, which somewhat defeats the purpose. Adding Clip Canvas at the end of the macro does not work. It does indeed clip the canvas, but it does so before I have a chance to adjust the parameters. I will explore this further and make a bug report if I feel that it needs it. John

A workaround that I have used is to open the music pdf in Omnipage (import). The export it as a re-named pdf. This usually works. It would probably also work in other pdf editors. I also do have the musical fonts installed. @Bert_auurk Can I suggest that you change your title to 'Import music pdfs'. John

How does what you want differ from the current ability to switch from the Photo persona to the Develop persona? The raw settings are incorporated into your image when you switch from Development to Photo. I'm not clear what you mean by 'update'. John

You should have received an email from Serif when you made your initial purchase. This includes your serial number. Failing that, try logging into your Account on the Affinity Store. John

If your new computers are the same operating system as your old one, there is no problem about installing Affinity on any other computer that you control. Just download the installer as you did before. If you need serial number, it will be the same as before. If your new computers are different OS, then you will need to pay for new downloads. Note that Mac and iPad have a different OS. John

I was originally about to insert HSL Adjustment but got distracted. Sorry about that. John

I think what you want is the Vibrance . Try the Vibrance slider in Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Vibrance. John

Try Layer > Rasterize. This works for me. John

The conversion from millimetres to pixels will depend on the document resolution (dpi or ppi). For vector program such as Designer, this does not really have any meaning until you wish to print the document or export to a raster format (such as png). Different programs will make different assumptions about the resolution, hence the different dimensions. John

As far as I can understand your tirade, you do not give any rationale or explanation why you regard Designer as a Raster program. You also seem to conflate Vector and SVG. SVG is a storage format and Vector Description language. Once you load an SVG file it becomes a series of vectors and other objects in Designer until such time as you export it back to SVG. John

First, ensure that your layer is a (Pixel) layer. If not use Layer > Rasterize. Click on the flood fill tool (around a third of the way down the toolbar on the left). Look at the context toolbar (above your image and the image name tab) and set the tolerance low, around 5. Now click on the white frame. All this white will now be surrounded by 'marching ants'. Now click on Delete. You can now get rid of the marching ants by clicking Ctrl/Cmnd-D. Now make a square selection around your image and press Delete. To get your white background, use Layer > New Fill Layer. By default this layer will be white, but placed at the top of the layer stack. Click on this fill layer and drag it down below your background layer. You can now add your new picture. You may wish to flatten your document (Document > Flatten) first though. John

Not really surprising. As @James Ritsonimplied, the Nearest Neighbour and Bilinear are not suitable for photo work, but they are good for line artwork such as your circle. Hence the choice. John

Do you mean 'free from artificial chemicals'? If not what do you mean? I find that 'organic' is often used to confer some vaguely positive note. (Or, as Ko-Ko put it in The Mikado: "Merely corrobarrative detail intended to give an air of verisimilitude to an otherwise bald and unconvincing statement.") John

Are the white borders part of your painting or are they part of the image? The answer to this would inform any advice that we might give, especially if you want a detailed, step-by-step explanation. John

It looks as if you are pointing Photo to the NIK installation folder, containing the NIK installation executable. You need to install NIK first by double-clicking on the installation executable in Windows, not Photo. John

Not necessarily. You just need to follow an Affinity Photo Copy and Paste tutorial. John

You do not say what app you are using. Since you compare it with GIMP, I would guess it is Photo. You need to ensure that the layer you wish to copy from is a Pixel layer. In the Layers panel, the name should end with (Pixel). If not, you need to rasterize the layer. Select the layer and Layer > Rasterize. If you are using Designer, follow the video above. The Title of your post is the subject matter (such as "Copy and Paste", not your title "Mr". This is a common source of confusion in new users of these forums. John

Doing a forum search for "comic macro" brings up a number of threads, including those from @smadell and from @dmstraker. John

You first need to export your .afpub file as a .pdf file If you then google for "pdf to epub conversion", this will bring up several sites which will do the conversion for you. This Question should really be posted in the Affinity on Desktop Questions forum. This forum is for members to post Resources that they have created, or sometimes pointers to external resources. John

Just what I was going to ask. I wondered if @pioneer wanted a macro to create a comic book. John