gdenby
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Posts posted by gdenby
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It is a 12 node solution, so not quite as economical as gdenby's 10 node one, but it is reasonably precise & also exports to SVG cleanly, without adding any extra nodes.
Place an appropriate sized object, or guidelines, in the gap. Delete the nodes between the upper and lower ends. Pull the line out till the curve reaches the object placed in the gap. Ta-da! 2 less nodes. What would be fun finding the structure that would get it down to 6 nodes. None at the mid line.
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Hand draw is often most efficient.
10 nodes to define:
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Something like this?
(contour is the important setting)
Well, that's most clever!!! !!
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If you quite Designer immediately after closing a document that was made in centimeters, the next time Designer is opened, new documents will be in centimeters.
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There appears to be a difference between duplicate and copy then paste in this situation. Example. Make a rectangle. Make a circle that overlaps it. Make the circle a mask which crops the rectangle.
Open the layer so the mask circle can be selected. If duplicated, you get a repeat mask. That repeat mask can be moved out of the object/mask pair. At which point, there is another cicrle at the same place.
If copied and pasted, there will be a circle at the same place positioned above in the layer stack. No need to move it out of the object/mask layer.
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"Graphic designers quote "Vector File" Is it sales jargon or is it of some benefit to me?"
Yes, it is of benefit. Vectors can be cleanly represented at any scale, and as precisely as the output device allows. The same tiny bit of vector code that defines a period at the end of a sentence can be scaled up to a black circle that fits on a billboard. It allows the computer to generate the list of individual dots, from maybe 30 for a period, or 30 million for a billboard.
Affinity Designer is mostly what is called a "draw" program. It makes vector objects within a vector frame. But it also blends bitmap "paint" technique with the vectors. For instance, one can make a complex geometrical form, and attach a mass of essentially random dots like a photo to that shape.
The resulting work can be saved in file formats, such as .eps, that will accommodate both types of data.
Time for me to sleep. Read up about vector and bitmap formats. Quote
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Google will return over 33 million hits for "vector graphics." It is not a topic that can be well described in even a few paragraphs.
It is not a format type. There are various file formats designed to contain vector objects. Dozens, maybe more than 100.
There are 2 kinds kinds of vector objects AFAIK. Both will have a list of x.y coordinates. In one case, the points will be determined by a mathematical formula, such as describing a circle based on the center and radius. In the other, it will be a list of point co-ordinates that define the boundary of a shape. Both kinds can then be transformed by various mathematical operations. Every part is editable.
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BTW, the method I'm describing is often not perfectly accurate. Just pretty close. But then its pretty easy to expand the stroke, divide the curves and then align & distribute the individual circles. Not very 1-2-3, more like + 4-5-6-7.
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OK, to get a little more detailed.
When the dots are made with a very small width, say .01 or .001, the circular portion gets really close to the width of the stroke. If the dot size added to the empty space, the dash, is an even divider of the stroke length, the dots will be evenly spaced.
If you have some arbitrary sized perimeter, it becomes difficult to figure. At what size does an x sized stroke divide evenly into a rectangle that is, say, 5.3" x 1.23"? Go figure.
But, if the rectangle is uniformly sized up or down, somewhere the dots will fit evenly
I'm attaching a screen shot showing the settings for the stroke and the size of the rectangle. It was specifically set up to be easy math-wise to get the dots to be even and at each corner. With the stroke set to conform to the object size, that particular shape can be scaled.
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Can anyone guide me to the proper setup of Plug-ins? When I choose show default plugin folder in Affinity I get quite a long path, which doesn't seem right.
Like this: User/Library/Containers/Com.Seriflabs.Affinityphoto/Data/Library/Application Support/Plugins
This just doesn't seem right.
That path seems just fine to me.
I don't have Photo, but from what I've read on the forum, most Photoshop plugins are recognized, but not all work, or work quite right.
Anyone out there w. plugins that are working. What's in your directory "User/Library/Containers/Com.Seriflabs.Affinityphoto/Data/Library/Application Support/Plugins"?
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My inspiration first came from this guy : http://michaelacevedo.com/I love that is M is integrated into some mountains. I was trying to look at something "natural" like this for my logo, but a "N" is harder because a part is missing hahaha. My logo is not just about ND, but can be N alone too.
What works in M. Acevedo's logo is that it is a simple visual pun. The M initial is associated w. mountain heights, with a pine trees like shape pointing with three upward arrow heads. In other words, Michael aims for peak excellence. It does not specifically say anything about himself.
And it is immediately recognizable at a small scale because it is simple. It doesn't display very much technical facility, except for the crucial matter of economy of expression.
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Make an object.
Duplicate.
the duplicate is active.
Move, scale, rotate as desired.
While it is still selected, repeat the command-J.
The new duplicate will move, etc in the same quantity as the 1st duplicate.
When there are several, select all, and duplicate.
Repete the above steps.
For simple rows and columns, the 1st transform is just on the X axis.
The 2nd tranform of the multiples is on the Y.
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I'm supposing it is pretty much the same for Windows as Mac, which is what I'm using.
Draw a vector shape on the Affinity canvas. Click on the fill tool, and select the fill type "bitmap." Navigate to where you have the image you want to use as a texture. High quality .jpg seems to work fine. Select, and open. W. the now vector filled object still selected, go over to the styles panel and click on the little menu icon. Use "Add style from selection." Done.
When the style is reused on other objects, selecting the fill tool will allow the texture cell size to be changed.
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Try this. Scale the box up till its just big enough to add 2 more dots to the periphery. Then go into the stroke settings, and check "scale" w object." then scale back down.
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For me, your current logo's biggest problem is not that it is too simple. Logos should be simple.
The "N" is not elegant. Currently, it is sort of "rustic." Lumpy. Without other elements, can you make the "N" stand on its own? Refine and clarify it as much as you can, then try to blend it w. other elements.
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I really love these kinds of classical ornaments. Great execution, thank you so much for sharing! :)
By the way, do you know this book?
https://archive.org/details/guidefordrawinga00pagerich
:)
Glad you like it.
Have the book stored on my HD, and worked to about half way thru step 4. At which point it was becoming fairly difficult. S'pose I should finish the lesson.
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I've been transcribing traditional decorative motifs into digital representations for at least a dozen years. A few weeks ago I came across a folder of hand drawn line work and .tif files generated from Corel Draw vector work. As it happened, there was a thread her about duplicating an art nouveau drawing 6 days ago. I started hand tracing one of the better transcriptions I made.
Presented here, a color and a vector/node representation of what I did in 10 - 12 hours, a few hours each day. Please give respect to the now anonymous artist who made the original.
- A_B_C and AffinityJan
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At this point, I'd be running diskutil to see if there isn't a file system corruption somewhere.
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Hi, Gary,
My suggestion would be to 1st review all of Affinity's own video tutorials. Then visit youtube. I just looked, and there are about 49000 vids linked to the query "Affinity Photo."
Maybe dip into the 1st hundred or so.
There are quite a few fine Photo users who post to the forum. Some have created their own tutorials. Perhaps if you posed some simple specific questions, the answers would get you a foothold.
Image processing is a huge topic, and many aspects are quite subtle Consider using Wikipedia, and searching "digital image processing," and "image editing" for an overview.
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If you want no line, you will have to break the curve. Or never have a stroke.
AD shapes are closed curves by default. If you have just vector lines, and try using a boolean operation on them, the lines will automatically turn to closed shapes. So if you just want the arc, you need to use the node tool to break the nodes that are at the ends of horizontal line. The half ellipse will then turn to 2 curves. The straight line can be deleted, leaving the arc section w. just a stroke on the curve, but not on the flat.
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Under the view menu, goto Studio, and try Reset Studio. I've accidentally turned of the tool display a couple of times, and that fixed it.
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I get very confused with subtract method. Do i need to first duplicate an object or two and then do some subtracting?
The subtractor gets wiped out, leaving only the subtracted. So the subtractor shape needs to be duplicated so it can show up over the object that was cut away.
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The lines topic showed up sometime in the past week or two. I tried to track it down, but couldn't find the thread. My recollection is that it is a known bug, something to do w. luminance values. Just now I tried to recreate your image, and had much the same result, altho less obvious that what your pic shows.
While messing around, I found that if I copied and pasted the masked ring, after 4 times, I could hardly see the line.
FWIW, the image you are trying to duplicate also has an area where there is a hairline of the wrong color. Its where the top ring is under the left ring.
Doing a subtraction will be a better way. It can be somewhat complex, but no rendering problems
the line/bezier work of Affinity designer
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
I gave it a go, and it didn't work well. I could not keep the area width even. In order to get the top portion notably larger than the the portion that tapered down towards the middle, I ended up w. a skewed width. I could get the distance between the sides to be the same, but the widths above and below were variable so a centerline would not have been quite circular.
I suppose the rule is that to create a point of inflection, where the curve x or y values change requires 2 nodes. Because there is a slight inflection near the top, another set of nodes are needed.
FWIW, I did the expand stroke routine on my version of the original pressure variation line, and exported it a .svg. I opened it in Inkscape, and took a look at the nodes. There were 3000 - 4000. I used Inkscapes smooth command and it reduced to 20. The file size went from 100 K to 3. My hand drawn ended up at 1.