gdenby

Hey there, thanks so much again for contributing. I didn't realize those were all questions that plague me day and night.

I was having the same problem for awhile. One of the recent beta d-loads appears to have fixed it. I'm running 1.6 beta 5.

You can use your finger, but my clumsy old hand writes about as well as I did with a crayon at age 4.

Add to library works OK on Mac 1.5.2. ?Make a bug report?

No objections. The document clarified some things I partially understood, like alpha. Small typo correction. In the table about "save as psd or what" The column labeled "supports ector" I s'pose should be "supports vector"

Downloaded the PDF, its very useful. I never did any photo/image processing except in a very casual manner. Lots of basic stuff I need to have defined.

Came up w. a couple of ways to do it in Designer. Screen shot of the simplest. Ellipse, radial gradient from 45% black to 10%, both at maximum noise. Midpoint of gradient shifted to around 75% from center. Posterize adjustment layer set to 1 level. Can also be done by rasterizing the ellipse, and scaling it up so its more pixelated, giving a coarser grain to the effect. Variable by layering several disks using different blend modes and levels of opacity.

You got me beat. FWIW, that's the worst digital image I've ever worked with. How it came to be? Badly scanned half tone printed image, printed from a bad photo, maybe.

I don't think AD will do the same thing as you describe. That is, draw a selection box around a number of vector objects, and crop them while copying them. When dragging across the screen, any object inside the box will be selected in its entirety. Likewise the whole of all single objects clicked on one at a time. That is similar to selecting individual layers from the panel. Its easy to just select those things you want to copy, and paste them whole into a new document. But the crop tool is non-destructive. It simply limits the appearance of the objects. Likewise, nesting the objects within a larger shape just conceals them within the parent boundary. Cropping can also be faked by placing objects on top of others and setting the blend mode to erase. The present boolean operations do not work on groups, only individual shapes, and the functions are controlled by the layer stacking. So while it is possible to do the cropping it is fairly tedious.

Have you tried using the Mac utility, "Digital color picker?" When I use that, the sRGB values for what is shown in the Affinity color dialogue, the fill sample, and what has been placed on the canvas are identical. Using it on your screen caps does show different values in the selection area, but I think that is just because of all the interference from the grid, and selection box, or because the drop shadow is effecting a portion.

Most of your problem will be learning curve related. Worse, you don't only have a curve to ascend, you have to go thru an unlearning curve for ingrained habits. Both Photo and Designer's workspace is pretty well laid out, but it is extensive, and expect to spend time investigating all the aspects. As a for instance, the flood fill doesn't have a transparency control for itself, but the color picker dialogue associated w. it does. I have only been using Photo for a few weeks, tho' Designer for some months. When I didn't find a transparency control associated w. the flood fill, I looked for the color settings to see not only what color, but how it would be used. You will find some things not yet built, or needing refinement. I was reading a PS board posting from a year ago, and a user said that Affinity Photo needed to be at least where PS CS2 was before switching. I looked up the CS2 features, and it seems Photo has at least 80%, but also some things from later versions. According to some PS users who have switched to Photo, there are some features which are easier/faster to use.

It opens just fine. In AD, the texture super group can be nested into any shape. But it can't be used as a style unless rasterized. And wow, NuEraNet, how many vectors are in there? 400+. Great results, but, whew, even with lots of copy/paste, must have taken some good time. Thanks for sharing. I want to look over what you did. It dows work very well to emulate a scratched/brushed surface.

AD doesn't have an automatic way to divide curves between nodes. The built in polygon shape can be manually broken apart into evenly sized arcs. And I suppose there might be some other methods to split symmetric objects by reflections of themselves. But off the top of my head, I can't think of any way to do it for arbitrary shapes except for some very tedious hand work.

Awesome skill. Tutorial! Tutorial! Plz. Any part of the rearing horse, actually any part of just the back ground.

The double tap places the last node, and then stops the line drawing at that point, if it is an open line. A tap on the 1st node by the last and closing the loop stops the sequence too.

"tap" place node, "tap tap" place node stop sequence.

You are welcome. Have fun.

Cr@P! Never even noticed the little side arrow to open the stabilizer control. I stand corrected, and happy to find its there.

Scott Adams, the writer/illustrator for the Dilbert comic strip is a pretty smart fellow. He recounts that he got his 1st cell phone, and couldn't get it to work. In a huff, he went to the store, and demanded the tech get it running. 10 seconds later, the tech had flipped the batteries to the right position, and everything was fine. His conclusion, everyone has moments of idiocy.

Hi, SweetP, Seems you posted in the wrong forum. Affinity Photo, which works on the iPad, doesn't have a brush stabilizer. Designer does, but it isn't on the iPad yet. Best way to figure out the stabilizer is to first draw an arc, or a zig zag line whith out it turned on. Then, do the same line with it on. You will see that the slight jiggles that hand motion causes in the drawing are averaged out, giving a smoother line.

I'm not sure what kind of images you want to crop, but if it is a bit-map, this will work. Nest it in a vector shape. Use the export slice tool to frame the shape, and export .png. Should also work w. a vector based map. The vector shape crops the image.

I d-loaded the .afdesign, went to export persona, selected .svg for export, print and flatten (everything) & flatten (nothing.), and saved. Every thing looks fine in Inkscape, displays properly in both Chrome and Firefox _except_ for the copy I saved set as flatten nothing, which produced the same as you showed. Flatten everything worked fine. But if you want a .png, why not just export as that? Affinity gives the same result as an .svg saved as .png from Inkscape.

Hi, artisticperspective I can offer some info. If you can afford it, get a graphics tablet and pen. While they don't equal pencils/pens/brushes on paper, they are more subtle than mouse work, and much more spontaneous. Take a look at both Designer's vector brush in the draw personna set, and the brush in the pixels personna. For the vector brush, look at the textured set of brushes. Personally, I find the vector brush really interesting. What it does is record a vector, and stretch a bit-map texture along that. One can go back, and change the shape of the line, the width of the stroke, its color, etc. The pixel brush has quite a few samples of drawing and painting brush styles. While each pixel layer it makes can be adjusted in various ways, once the lines are laid down, that's it except for erasing as in traditional media. You can make your own brushes. I've made a few. I haven't been very happy with them, but with some work, I think I could come up with decent ones. There are 3rd party brushes available that are a good bit more subtle. 2 forum members offer some for sale, under the name Daub brushes and Frankentoon. Not too pricey, and it saves the time of having to learn and create your own. Shading in a digital medium is quite easy if you take advantage of the opacity/transparency settings. You can, of course, us a traditional approach of cross hatching many fine strokes, layer over layer. However, by controlling a pixel layer's opacity, you can get just the amount of effect you want from one broad pass. Another reason I like the vector brush is that one can make a set of strokes, group those, duplicate the group, and then use the transparency tool to fade the upper layer away, giving a dramatic toning of the under layer. You can place any photo as a background, use an adjustment to fade it in some way, and lock the layer. Then create new layers on top for tracing. As far as composition goes, what would you ordinarily do? If you want, you can display guidelines or grids to use as a visual framework. Or you can draw simple vector shapes (think comic strip boxes) that are snapped to the grid/guides, and confine drawing work to strokes nested inside those. Lots of stuff to try out.

you guyz are too good. I have find an emoji for envy. O(> Seriously, fine work

I've been dabbling w. Photo on the Mac for about 4 weeks, on the iPad maybe 2. I think the functions are all there on the iPad, but the interface is really different. Things I can already do on the Mac are still a struggle for me on the iPad. I expect it will be slower to learn the iPad version, but it seems the functionality is there. Have to learn which icon brings up the menu options, which tap, double tap, etc gets them to work. iOS is really clumsy when it comes to file management, as far as I'm concerned. Fewer options for opening files and saving them. Put the image in the Photo library, or in the iCloud, etc. No drag and drop that I know about at this point.