gdenby
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Posts posted by gdenby
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It takes a few more steps inAD at this point. No Flipping on edges, only bounding box center. Have snapping on. Select line, command-K to duplicate, use transform/flip horizontal. Slide the duplicate to the side till is snaps. W. both selected, switch to node tool, and from the context menu bar, use join curves and close curve. Takes me maybe 15 secs.
You certainly can continue to draw a path, and as above join and close it w any other path.
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Umm, not right now. I haven't used swatches enough to say. I mostly use the vector persona, and don't often use the pixel persona. Little use for bitmap fills 'cept in vector shapes. But your question prompts me to investigate. Still, I'm perplexed that you can't add a style.
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Do not know what is happening. For adding a style, it should be 1-2-3. Make vector shape, rectangle, ellipse, etc. With vector shape selected, use fill tool, and choose bitmap, and choose from whatever bitmap is wherever in the directory structure. Switch to the move tool, right click the mouse, and choose "Create Style." a new one will show up in whatever style category is active, or default if the style panel isn't open.
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I have a Huion 1409. Works quite well. It has the same dpi resolution as a Wacom, but not as many pressure levels. I've had to mess w. the control settings to get a smooth response to pressure. I'm happy enough, given that the tablet size is far larger than a Wacom of similar size.
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1 hour ago, R C-R said:
Be that as it may, iPads are highly portable devices that frequently are used outside homes or offices where no other suitable device is in AirDrop range. If you have an iPad with a cellular radio, or even one that doesn't & a phone that can be used as a personal hotspot with it, anything stored in cloud storage is accessible anywhere you can get a decent cellular signal. There are now cars that have built-in personal hotspots features too, so you may not even need a phone.
Until yesterday, I did not have a cell phone. My iPad could not connect to anything except to the home network. 2 weeks ago, my car was an 18 year old model that didn't have anything that could connect. My current one is only 11 years old, and I think I can plug my new phone into it. See, I'm leaping ahead! But crap, now I have to learn how to text (noooo).
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What you show is something that might happen if you were making a dotted stroke. For instance, a dotted line using a butt end stroke would show nothing as a dotted stroke. But I've not seen that w. a solid stroke. Care to upload a file so others can view, and maybe sort thru.
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Last week, I had my home internet connection re-wired. The technician said that the wires should have been replaced at least 10 years ago, which is when the last one said they were fine. I now hopefully have a reliable connection to the "cloud." Personally, I feel dubious about cloud storage for the above reason and others. So I was happy to have air drop. Tho' my internet connection is now reliable, and ever so slightly faster than before, air drop works about 5 times faster.
Personally, I don't care if my documents are synchronized between various devices. I tend to have 4, 5, 6 versions of anything, and am happy if there are a few other variants else where.
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53 minutes ago, R C-R said:
That cool white stylus pen is the Apple Pencil, easily the most precise device you can use with iPads that support it. That includes all iPad Pro models plus the newest 9.7" iPad model released in March of this year.
The iPencil rocks. It is expensive, but the response is spectacular. AD's new "sculpt" pencil mode works like liquid lightning. My younger daughter, who works very diligently w. a Surface Pro, Ps, and various pens had to admit it was way better than anything she had used.
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If you are transferring to a Mac, you can use "air drop." Set up both machines for 2 way hand-offs. Save the .afdesign file to Files, select it, and share to your other mac.
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Hi, befehr,
Have you tried clicking a file, and use the get info command? If you select the "open with" panel, it should show you the apps that you can choose for opening files w. the file extension. There is a check box for "change all" to set the defaulr app choice. If that fails, there is a corruption of a registry entry that needs to be wiped out. I've had to do that twice, but don't recall how to do that. I think I used the freeware utility OnyX to reset base defaults.
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AFAIK, styles are associated w.vector objects only. Create a vector object, and use the fill tool set to "bitmap." Place the metallic raster image in the vector, and then create a style. The placed image can be made to tile, or fill the vector. Depends on what you want.
Maybe create a "metallic" gradient instead of using a bitmap if you want to use the finish over a larger range of object.
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Works pretty well. The long necktie shape kind of breaks the overall hex-nut feeling for me. It might be too old fashioned, but consider a bow tie instead: bigger hex+smaller hex+bigger hex, all horizontal centered.
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Here is a clumsy work around.
Take the vector shape, and duplicate it. Set the fill to none, and give it a dotted stroke. Repeat 2 or 3 more times, changing the stroke width, the dash interval, etc. Expand all the strokes, and boolean add them. Then subtract from the filled vector. Select all, and change to curved nodes, and smooth. Note, you will get about a million nodes, but you will get a deckle edge vector for the bitmap fill.
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Hi, Northern_99,
I don't know about cameras, but it was part of my job to set up lighting in a fine art museum. I often worked closely w. the photographers. LEDs do not have a continuous spectrum. They emit a strong blue frequency light, which passes thru various phosphors which re-emit yellow and red lights, but the specifics of those depends on the manufacturer. They are not as bad as fluorescents, but still very unbalanced. In my museum work, it took nearly eight years to find LEDs which were good enoug. This was verified by the archival photographer, who was using a top end Nikon. It had a spectral display, and when a grey card was sampled under the LEDs and the best halogens we had, the LEDs won w. the most balanced spectrum.
So to correct the images you have, if you had the original spectrum (not likely I suppose), you would know which portions of the color curves to balance. Typically, cheap LEDs for area lighting still have a very strong blue component, a much reduced green, and almost no red. I've never become skilled enough in this sort of adjustment. Perhaps someone here knows how to add color to different ranges of the spectrum
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Hi, Rickpwns
There are free trials available. I'll suggest you try one after another, because there is enough stuff in each that you probably won't get a chance to explore all the features of both within the trial time period. There is overlap between the 2. If you are aimed at print work, I suppose Designer is more appropriate. For instance, it has the option for creating artboards for printing. Photo includes whole modules for developing digital images and color toning them. I would suppose the clients would already have the images they want, or expect you to find stock photos for them.
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Hi, Kylelol,
If you've had some experience w. GIMP, you've taken some 1st steps. GIMP has lots of good stuff, but the interface layout is sort of clumsy, which is to be expected from an app made from group contributions. For me, the interface feels very clumsy. The Affinity apps are much better. But note, they do a ton of stuff. I've been doing computer graphics since the mid-80s. Still took me about 2 weeks to find everything in Designer. I use Photo far less, but my impression is that it is much more complex.
Consider what you might want to try. Designer is, obviously, for structured design. But it has a good selection of "paint" features. Photo is aimed for pro photo work. I don't have a decent camera, and am a wretched photographer. But I do find Photo has an even stronger set of painting tools coupled w. image manipulation.
As above, do it for fun. When I got Designer, the built in shape tools blew me away. Then gradients, then blend modes. Spent maybe 6 weeks making abstract geometric images w. dozens and dozens of layers, each w. different gradients and blends and transparencies.
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Hi, Bobi,
I've been using AD for about 20 months, average at least 3 hrs/day, and I had a great deal of trouble trying to follow the tute.
1st problem, I don't have that font, so I don't know how many points/mm wide it is so I can't place the first circle ellipse next to it. I also don't know if the "Q" is centered on the guides, it doesn't look like it. I don't know if the line drawn across from the circle is from the circle center, or the circle diameter. I don't know why the left, down, right, up, left lines are different sets of values and not in a grid. Tho' I suspect they are some fraction of the card's width and height.
It would have been so much easier to simply give the locations of a whole set of guides to snap to instead of trying to adjust individual pen nodes.
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Hi, blanko.
The save profile is associated w. the specific document. The pressure may be saved as a layer style to be used in any document. I've not quite worked thru some of the issues w. the saved style. Sometimes applying a save style makes the stroke much wider. I suppose it may have to do w. the scale w. object being set to on, but am still unsure.
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Hi, neteunnito,
Can comment on 2 items
The pencil is a vector tool. There will always be nodes using it. While being made, the line will always show the nodes. Switch to pixel personna, and use the brush tool. No nodes, but you can not change what you have done like w. a vector tool.
Using the vector brush without a stroke isn't what it is designed for. It is supposed to stretch a bitmap along the vector. You can draw w. it, and then use the fill tool tool to add a fill, and then use the stroke studio to remove the stroke. Or just use the pen tool, which is more appropriate, because it can be set to have no stroke, and only a fill.
The only way I know to save a particular pencil setting is to change the tool default, which means every time you want to use the pencil, which means you'll have to change it if you want anything different. Same difference. I'm thinking you might want to leave it at default, and after drawing, go to the stroke studio and assign whatever stroke you want to use for the current work. You will most likely want to work on making your own brushes, which can then be attached to any vector line.
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Symmetrical copy of path
in Pre-V2 Archive of Affinity on Desktop Questions (macOS and Windows)
Posted
Yes, Command J, my typo. And yes, I should have said Node tool context bar. Haven't had breakfast yet.
Hmm, you should be able to make a marquee node selection. You do need to click on the object first. Note, when several nodes are selected, they can be rotateds or scaled from the tranform panel on lower right.