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About gdenby

  • Rank
    Dedicated User
  • Birthday 08/17/1950

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  • Gender
  • Location
    "Michiana," USA
  • Interests
    CG, obviously. Traditional visual 2d and 3d art. History. Music, piano emphasis. Nature conservancy, gardening, cooking.

    Too old for martial arts or treking.

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  1. Hi, hebbardkennedy, W/o seeing what you want to work on, I think it is likely that there will be lots of problems. What is your source material? Is it a digital file that has been compressed? Those are likely to have lots of "artifacts" that have lots of grey noise at edges between B & W. "Jaggie" stair steps. Using a threshold adjustment will give you a B&W image. In my experience, most images w. fine detail change shape slightly depending on the threshold setting. Fine lines in engravings can go from scattered black pixel smears to solid shapes w. minor changes in the threshold. Sometimes it helps to add a small amount of gaussian blur, about .5 pixel, to average out edge features before subjecting them to threshold. What you may want to do is clean up your pattern manually, and then change it to a vector drawing. Affinity does no do those, but the are good online free services for that, and some very inexpensive stand alone apps that do the job. The results will most likely need some smoothing by deleting extra nodes
  2. Hi, Tlottrike, Probably the easiest thing to do is convert the donut to curves, and then do a boolean divide. That will make each ellipse a seperate object, and you can give whatever stroke widthe you like to each.
  3. Hi, Barry S, Assuming you are asking about Designer, check out this tool bar widget: which will give you both alignment and distribution options.
  4. Hi, Keahi, Basically, the starting image is really "dirty." There are lots of compression artifacts which muddle the shape edges, but one can still see the patch's thread work, which adds more extraneous detail. I tried a couple of different vectorizing settings, and did a little little image processing to clean it up for other tries, and got results much like PixelPest posted. One might start from there, and after lots of node tweaking, get a vector restoration that is a smoother and more accurate reproduction.
  5. Hi, Psych, I've used Painter, but its been several years since, and Krita a bit recently. AP is basically for photo development, adjustment, enhancement, compositing, etc. It has a good range of "brush" tools, as well as vector shapes. Unlike the above, it is not primarily a natural media emulator. For work being done w. both APhoyo & ADesigner, see here.
  6. Not at all. Simple as pie. Set up your grid, w. snap to grid enabled. Draw a circle of desired size. Press "command" (Mac, don't know PC) and drag to next desired gird intersection. Press "command J," "Duplicate, and repeat the circle as needed. If you then don't like the horizontal spread, move one end circle, and use the "distribute, horizontal spacing" widget. This will yield an equal spacing between al the circles. If I might suggest, stop thinking in AI, and start thinking in AD. Different methods for the same results.
  7. Hi, Shih, What you need is a bitmap auto tracer. Affinity does not have one of those built in. I ran your sketch thru one, but even after some preprocessing, the results were poor. Crucially, the line was not continuous. Tree..svg
  8. I've been sort of busy the past few days. Might have more time on the weekend. For now, some notes. The method starts w a straight line made up of evenly spaced nodes, a dozen or more. The line is duplicated in parallel. If all the resulting straight line curves are selected, and one switches to the node tool, one should see a grid of nodes. I prefer sharp nodes, because when the lines are bent, I find it easier to select columns of nodes connected by straight sections. Using the node tool, select a column of nodes from all the parallel lines. Then switch to the node tool selection box. This makes it easy to rotate, shift, skew and perform various transforms on the column. One may then, as desired, proceed thru other columns until all may have been twisted, expanded, contracted, etc. Then turn all the nodes into smooth. FWIW, one can apply a tapering pressure curve to one of the lines, copy the style to the rest. Then the series can be broken, making portions of the lines either wispy or thicker.
  9. A quick manual example. Method. Use pen and snap to grid to make regular straight line, all sharp nodes. Duplicate. Select all, switch to node tool. Select columns, and click the transform box widget. Reshape node columns. Select all, and turn to smooth nodes.
  10. Hi, Don Tango, Try this approach for something like the above. Increase brightness and add a little contrast. Then use a small value for Dust & Scratches.
  11. Oh, I see you are using the gradient layer fx. The fx are always rasterized. Use the fill tool w. a gradient.
  12. Hi, abysan, Here are a few comments that may help. As far as I know, .eps files do not support transparency. They also formulate gradients different ways. Sometimes, AI rasterizes them. It may be that Affinity rasterizes them by default. Perhaps try exporting as .pdf. The problem with clipping probably has to the geometry of the layers. This is a common newbie mistake. All the vector objects define a 2D space. "Closed" curves can have a stroke placed on them. "Unclosed" will have a stroke on the defined lines. But if a fill is added to them, it fills from end point to endpoint of the defined curve. You may want to duplicate the curves that define the oval-ish shape. Take the original shapes, get rid of the stroke attribute, and the, using the pen and node tool, join the 2 shapes that are there. The gradient can be nested within that. Gradients are designed to be modified by the user to point in whatever direction the users wants, and have the end point placed wherever. You might want to switch the view to "Outline." That way, you can see where the open curves are more easily.
  13. Reading the specs for .svg coded images, the gradients AD offers are those the standard supports, and which work w. vectors. Any gradient edge that offered a 3D look, whether from a shading routine like the fx, or a rendering from a 3D engine would need to be reproduced as pixels. The image then becomes larger (less suitable for web use) and will degraded w. scale changes. Note, Photo does have the mesh warp which would sometimes aid in deforming a standard gradient.
  14. Hi, Lucja, Select the item. Use the command "Layer/Fillmode/Winding."
  15. Hi, Affinity100, I think this will do for you. Make a rectangle, any size. Duplicate it and move it just as far to the side as it is wide. I often have a grid active, and w. snapping, can get even spaces. Select the group of rectangles. Open the transform panel. W. the anchor point positioned at the center of the bounding box diagram, enter identical values for H & W, what ever size you like. Everything will be in a square. W. the rectangles selected, use geometry/add. Then w. the node tool, select a row of points. Again using the transform panel, center the anchor, and enter what ever width you like to make a trapezoid. As practice using the pen tool, start snapping nodes the corners of the trapezoid line shape. If they are not quite right, switch to the node tool, zoom in, and tweak the positions. You can then nest the line shape inside the trapezoid, and the trapezoid's fill will block any layers lower in the hierarchy.

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