Maultierhirsch

Yeah, they tend to be huge.

Yes, the macro will make the process easier and faster. Without the macro you would have to apply the same changes to every single image by hand. Changing the opacity between layers, does not make a lot of sence in my mind. When you set the blend mode of your live stack to mean or median, it does pretty much the same as if you would manually change the opacity of each layer like shown in the PetaPixel article you posted (4. Averaging the Layers). Both methods make each picture contribute the same ammount to the final image. Setting the blend mode simply does the job for you and you do not have to do the calculating how much opacity each layer needs to have. Plus you can easily change the blend mode to other things without fiddeling around with settings on each layer. "Median" an "Mean" have slightly different results. Usually they are not very visible though. On some images it might make a slight differende. Feel free to experiment. Cheers Matt P.S.: Keep in mind, that you might have to make a new macro for each new project if you made specific changes to the source images (e.g. corrected the exposure). If you make the macro universal (only change the size of the image and make changes to the image you would apply to every raw image of your camera) and you save the macro output into a lossless image format, you can apply the other changes onto the live stack. But that might cost you a lot of CPU power and so time to wait for changes, depeding on the size of your images and also the number of images you process. You have to figure out for yourself what is best for you. A new macro for each project or waiting for the CPU to finish processing the stack.

Hi, sure no problem. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uq2m6qqh5gd66zs/AADZBl2IktFi2slioxarKELMa?dl=0 Keep in mind, that there are also other adjustments to the image (contrast, saturation, etc.). Look at the details as well as noise/grain levels rather than the overall result. There is the main difference between one image, a stack of images and super resolution stacking. For really good SR results one would need very good and sharp images to stack. I also found a good Youtube video on super resolution by a photographer I like. This can give you a good feeling for what to expect. He uses Photoshop but it is the same technique. All the adjustments he makes to the raw images in Lightroom, you add to your macro. Ghosting you can directly edit in the live stack (adding a mask and painting out the ghost in the mask)

Hi dronecrasher, First you open one of your images in Affinity Photo. It does not matter which one, because it is just used for creating the macro, which you are then applying on all of your images. Then you record a macro using the steps I outlined in my post above. ("View-> Studio -> Macro activates the side panel" means goto the Menu "View", there to the entry "Studio" and there to the entry "Macro activates the side panel"). For the rest follow my steps from the previous post. Some additional Infos: When applying the macro on all of your images, you should use an uncompressed image format (e.g. bmp) as file type for the macro output. That way you don't have a loss of details due to compression. They are a lot bigger though. If you do not get good results, keep in mind that superresolution only adds a little sharpness to your image when done correctley. But it will never be like a real 48mp picture. The resulting image also depends a lot on the ability to acurately stack the images on top of each other. You will need a lot of patience when stacking. When you have all your images in the Live Stack, make only two images visible (disable the checkbox on the right of the image entry in the layers tab to maka a layer=image invisible). The fist image is you reference image, the second one you move around. The "live stack group" folder has a little sign (blend mode) next to the visibilty checkbox. Klick on it and change it to "standard deviation". This way you can check if you alligned correctley. If the image is black (you will still see the grain but mostly nothing from your image), then your allignment is ok. Otherwhise you will have to work on it. Next you make the second image invisible and make the third visible. It is important that you keep the reference image always visible and only change the other image. At the end you change the blend mode (the little sign next to the checkmark) to Mean or Median, whichever gives you better results. Good luck. I hope your images are easy to process. If you have questions feel free to ask. Cheers Matt

@ Wikinger: Sorry for posting so late. Thanks for the recommendation of IRIS. I will give it a shot soon. I did not have trouble understanding the french post. I learned french in school and what I didn't get I understood after using translate.google.com. I am glad for information, no matter in which language. If someone does not understand, there still is the option to ask for assistance. It's not necessary to get rude. @ Wikinger: Je suis désolé de poster si tard. Merci pour la recommandation d'IRIS. Je vais bientôt essayer IRIS. Je n'ai pas des problemes à comprendre le message français. J'ai appris français à l'école et ce que je n'ai pas compris, j'ai compris après utilisér translate.google.com. Je suis heureux pour l'information, pas importe dans quelle langue. Si quelqu'un ne comprend pas, il est toujours possible de demander de l'aide. Ce n'est pas nécessaire d'être impoli.

Thanks for the reply. Might work. Have to try it on my next project. @MEB: Found a bug using the CRTL-Arrow method. V 1.6.1.93 (Win) won't go to negative numbers when starting out at 0° and hitting CRTL-Arrow down. No problem when you are already in the negative range.

Sorry, but the increments using you suggestion are way to big. I cannot use that method.

That would really ruin the workflow. You cannot slightly rotate with the mouse using the transform panel and switching between mouse an keyboard to enter 0,x° then hit enter, check if works for me, then change for another 0,1°, check again, ... that's not really userfriendly.

Hi, I am currently manually stacking a lot of moon shots. Thus i have to move and rotate the layers since the moon moves and rotates slightly. Moving wokes like a charm, but rotating could be a little better. Now I have to grab a corner node to rotate the picture, which makes me see only the very outer edge of the canvas. My suggestion would be to introduce a modifier key so I dont have to grab the node anymore, but could rotate the picture using the mouse anywhere on the canvas. This would allow me to rotate and check simultaniously. With shots like this not only the corner is of interest since the atmosphere distortes the pic all over the canvas and I have to check for the overall matching not only the corner matching. Thanks Matt

Anything on that? Did it get fixed with 1.6? Someone working on it? ...

Thanks MEB, worked perfectly. Greetings Matt

Hello, in an adjustment layer I painted in a mask. Later on I wanted another adjustment layer to have the same mask. Since it is not a simple mask, i would like to copy the mask or even better to extract the mask from the existing adjustment layer and paste it into a normal mask, which I can then move around in my layers as I need to. Is there a way to do so? I did not find anything on that. Greetings Matt

Hello, I recently created a batch job using a macro. Unfortunately I forgot to uncheck the .afphoto file option after checking the .png file option. When I found out I wanted to stop the job but I did not find any way to do so. Since the job was to alter 34 images it took unnecessarily long to export to two file types. It would be very useful to be able to abort/stop a job. Please add that function. Greetings Matthias

I am also currenty working on a work flow for super resolution. This is what I came up with: Record a macro after opening a file of the series (View-> Studio -> Macro activates the side panel) - Press the red record button in the macro panel - Apply the changes you want to be made (adjustments + resize document) - Press the "Add To Library" button in the macro panel (the one with the three squares and the plus) - Use the category "Macro" and give it an name you can later easily recognize what it does (e.g. "Super Resolution Preps") Now go to File -> New Batch Job - Hit the "Add" button and add all photos you want to be processed - On the lower right side of the dialog under "Available Macros" select Macros in the drop down menu and chose the macro you created. Hit Apply. - On the upper right side select the file type you want your photos to be saved as (but not the affinity format because you cannot add them to a stack later on) - Hit OK and get a coffee After everything finished, go to File -> New Stack - Add the files processed by the macro - Choose the aligning options you want - Hit OK and get another coffee - In the "Layers" tab on the "Live Stack Group" choose the blending method you like (the symbol next to the check mark) hope that helps a little Greetings Matt

Please add an option for applying RAW settings using batch processing. I could not make a macro recording for that.

It would be very useful if the app would not blend the different images into one layer but instead used all images with layer masks. Therefore if the blending needs some tweaking, you could actually to more it easily.

Hi, first of all nice piece of Software! Now to the bugs: When enabling the Zoom tool, it says "Aufwärts DRAG" = increase Zoom (aufwärts= upwards) "Abwärts DRAG" = decrease Zoom (abwärts = downwards) but zooming works by draging left or right. Don't know if it is wrong labeling or the code is mixed up. Correct labeling would be "nach rechts ziehen = Zoom erhöhen", "nach links ziehen = Zoom verringern" By the way, the installer only gave the option to install an English Version, but the UI is part German. Thats a little confusing. I also cannot switch to english. I changed the Language settings to "English Great Britain", but after I restarted the program the UI was still part German. Strangely the Preferences dont show any language as selected if i choose English as Language. The dropdown box has no text in it. If I choose German it says german after a restart. One other thing when changing the Language: If you choose a Language and exit the settings dialog via the X in the upper left corner, the program asks for a restart. If you exit the dialog via the "close" button it does not. Either you forgot the "OK / Apply" button or the "close" button misses some code.

Hi Mark. I think you should reread what St3v3 wrote. You are both talking of different things. Yes, the checkbox is deciding whether the CTRL key is needed to be pressed to enable zoom. And yes, zooming does not distinguish between horizontal or vertical. BUT : Scrolling DOES. Currently with with "Use mouse wheel to zoom" checked you cannot scroll left/right using the Mousewheel. This is a major usability bug. Shift+Mousewheel must stay"Scroll Left/Right", even when "Use mouse wheel to zoom" is checked. This can easily be fixed in code. This is just a little mixup in the sourcecode. Tell your coders. This is done in 5 Minutes.