dominik

Moin @Pianutbutterjelly und willkommen im Forum. Ohne genau zu wissen, wie Dein Dokument aufgebaut ist, ist das nicht einfach zu beantworten. Wenn Du z.B. Textstile verwendest, dann könntest Du zentral die Farbe ändern. Eine Sache, die wahrscheinlich funktionieren könnte ist die Auswahl bestimmter Objekte. Das findest Du im Menü 'Auswählen' und dort 'Objekt auswählen'. Du müsstest einmal alle Grafiktextobjekte und einmal alle Rahmentextobjekte auswählen und jeweils die Farbe anpassen. d.

Hello @Amy Choue, this is my fault. I accidentially created the file in the beta version of Designer. Attached is a file created in version 2.1.1. Learning to work with a design application is a long process and furthermore doing book cover design is so, too. Looking at samples is certainly a good way to start and I'd even advice to rebuild a design that you like. You can learn a lot just from replicating something. Sometimes very simple looking things can turn out to be quite tricky to accomplish. In my opinion it is also important to have an understanding of some design principles (symmetry, golden cut, colour harmony). I do not want to discourage you, quite the opposite. There are so many resources on the internet where you can learn from. Good luck with your first cover! d. simple-book-cover.afdesign

Hello @Amy Choue, I think there are different workflows depending on a person's preference. Here's how I do it: I use one artboard of the dimension of the entire cover (backcover plus spline plus frontcover plus bleed). There I place three rectangles from left to right of the sizes back cover / spine / front cover. The most important thing is to figure out the width of the spine. This depends on the number of pages and the thickness of paper. Often printers offer some sort of calculators to find that out. These three rectangles are my 'drawing boards' for everything of the design that goes on top of them. I lock these layers (= rectangles). They can be filled with the required colour of the covers and the spine respectively. Does this make sense to you? I attach a simple Designer 2 file that demonstrates the above setup. Make sure to show bleed and margins. d. simple-book-cover.afdesign

Hello @JVGen, there is no way in AD to crop non vertical and horizontal angles. Affinity Photo does have a straighten option with its Crop Tool. There you would first straighten the image and afterwards crop to the image's borders. If you want to work in AD you can get this accomplished, too: First unlock the background layer if it is locked (this is usually the case if you import an image) Next place a guide exactly at the top corner of the white rectangle With the Move Tool enable 'Transform Origin' on the toolbar. This will bring up a little crosshair in the very middle of the pixel layer Move the transform origin to exactly the top corner of the white rectangle. You will have to zoom in quite close to position it exactly Finally rotate the pixel image in order to align its top left border with the guide. You can achieve this very precisely by using the transform panel. Click in the rotation value field and use your mouse wheel to increase or decrease the angle's value. Holding down CTRL will increas in smaller steps and helps to adjust precisely. Afterwards you can crop with the regular Crop Tool. If it is just for a white rectangle on a black background it would be much simpler to create this from scratch in AD, though. d.

Hallo @Louise Cloutier, I'd use two rectangles as masks. One for each person's faces. Create a blanc document of the size of your final design. Place the image via 'File > Place'. Duplicate the image via 'Edit > Duplicate Selection' (CTRL+j works the same way). Create two rectangles with the rectangle tool. Each of about the size of the left head and the right head. Make them the hight of your design. Now in the Layers panel drag one copy of the image over one of those rectangles. Make sure to drop it in the area right to the preview icon. Drop. This way you are clipping the image in order to just show one face. Do the same with the other copy of the image on the other rectangle. Now you can move the heads to the far left and right side of your document. Note: since the background of the image is white there is no problem doing so. If there is a coloured background additional steps are required to fill the gap. I prepared a Designer sample file but it failed to upload. Sorry. d.

Hello @kanihoncho, basically you can reassign different shortcuts to the commands 'Copy' and 'Paste'. I just tried in APub to make sure it works. Perhaps you have to play around a little to make sure it really works becaus CTRL+V is such a common command that it may be confusing to see it behaving different. d.

I would create a blanc document of the size of the final collage as a 'main' project. And then use 'File > Place' to bring all your projects into this document. Then you can arrange them as a collage. If there is the need to make some edits in one of your project files you can double click on it and you are right inside this project in a new tab. All changes made are synced with your 'main' file. d.

Hello @Berndie, your question is a little vague. What is a project that you are calling. Affinity Photo usually has one canvas and it is not easy to understand, how or why you want to combine multiple canvases into one. After all, the best advice I can give you without any information about your projects: try copy and paste. It is very easy to transfer the layers from one file into another by this way. You might also look into 'File > Place' which lets you place a complete APh document into another document. d.

Thanks for pointing this out. I had forgotten about this fact. d.

Hello @TheOtherRoland, converting a website into a PDF is possible. There are (free) online tools available and you could try these (search for 'website to pdf'). But I think this may not work too well because a website works different than a PDF file. I would try one of those (free) programs that mirror (= download) a website locally to your computer. That way you can browse the original help pages without an internet connection. Look for WebCopy or HTTrack. d.

Hello @marble51, since it is a vector object you are using as a mask you have to work differently. Basically applying blur to a vector object is the equivalent to feathering a selection. A selection is a representation of pixels. That is the difference. The advantage of using a vector object is that you can edit its shape at any time. Even with the blur effect on. You can even use compounds of multiple vector objects as a mask. d.

Yes, this is another option, thanks. I assume some of the content will not be as easy to edit as with copy and paste. I never tried it. d.

Thankyou for this use case. If you are working together with this many collaborators (which is a very promising example of the spread of the Affinity suite) you are either working in a commercial context or in a non profit context. A commercial context should sooner or later make it possible to upgrade everyone involved. I do understand that this may not be (easily) possible in a non profit or volunteer context. I see that this can be a problem. In some cases it is possible to exchange content between V1 and V2 files by copy and pasting layers. That way someone who is on V2 could copy layers to V1 and provide this file to collaborators on V1. I admit this is a poor workaround but at least 'something'. d.

Hello @pissedoffuser and welcome to the forum. The main reason is because Serif decided so. One of the reasons fellow forum member @Komatös already mentioned. In regard to the relatively reasonabley priced upgrade cost I would hesitate to call this a bait. But to each his own. Can you perhaps provide a use case which explains why someone would stay with version 1 and seriously has to interchange version 2 files? I know about some users who still are at version 1 on purpous. But I never heard from them that they are missing this feature. If compatibility is a serious issue (e.g. in a commercial scenario) an upgrade should not be too hard. d.

Did you experience this with already taken test images? Or are you thinking about this in advance? I did some stitching of water in the past. I was able to retouch the boundaries between the different images (clone brush, stamp tool). But the waving water was not the main object in those images and the waves were not as big like those in an ocean. d.

Well, @walt.farrell beat me by giving you a good answer (thanks for that). The only thing I can add is that this way of creating grids is more of a visual technique. There is no way to control distances precisely during their creation. That is not a bad thing. It is just good to know. d.

That is indeed deeply hidden. At least it's not a bug 🙂 d.

Hello @Zero1, if you turn off both HSL Shift Adjustments you will notice that one rectangle is solid black and the other one is somewhat transparent. But since they are just clipping masks the fill does not do anything. It would be interesting to know if you created group 1 in a V1 application and which one. I assume that was in APhoto? By playing around with the file I was able to crash AD V2.1.1. There seems to be something odd going on in this file. d.

It seems you already found an app that solves the task for you. Wonderful. On Windows it seems to be possible to password protect a file from its properties window. I just read about this and haven't tried it by myself. d.

Crossposting 🙂 You answered my suggestion by this. You do not want other people being able to seeing the file's content. A simple way could be to ZIP the file and use a password. d.

On Windows (and I assume on Mac OS, too) you can change the file's properties to 'read only'. That way you can open and view a file but you cannot save changes back to that particular file. The file remains unchanged. d.

Sometimes it happens to me that I need to move several objects the exact same amount of space. Here's my quick and dirty way: use the arrow keys and count. E.g. arrow left moves an object a given amount of pixels to the left. That given amount of pixels (or any other unit) is defined under 'Options > Tools'. Hitting five times arrow left and hitting five times arrow right on the other object gives exactly the same movements in opposite directions. Note: you can use Shift + arrow key to multiply the distance by 10. d.

True. I just meant to point out that there is a rudimentary measuring capability (if I may call it that way). I am confident that this tool will see some development in the future. d.

Hello @wonderwharf and welcome to the forum. As @Callum said this is not on the horizon. But there have been postings in the (far) past about a project like this. Just don't expect it anytime soon ... or after soon. d.

sample points as in APh? This is true. The measure tool does snap to rulers in AD. One could mark certain points of interest with horizontal and vertical rulers and measure between their crossings. But this is cumbersome and certainly not what @MotRettop is looking for 😉 d.