Sara72

Bridge Over Sea

My preferred method is to reduce the opacity of the original drawing layer and put the curve layer underneath it. Then whenever you want a clear view of the curve layer, you can simply hide the other layer temporarily.

To add to summersara's post as you create a filled curve, it can obscure the drawing so drop the opacity of the curve layer to about 50-60% so you can see where you need to add nodes.

You can get a similar effect by using the Bilateral blur on a colour copy of the image and increasing the Luminosity and reducing the Saturation, i then gave the B/W copy with the line drawing effect (from detect edges and invert) an overlay blend mode:
 

@summersara & @HVDB Photography Thank you for the macros.
I don't think the effect is similar or even close to what I'm looking for I learned something:
Bilateral blur works better than (every bodys default) gaussian blur as it creates other articats that can be eliminated nicely by the gamma change. This reduces the colors a lot better than posterize does IMHO.
But I still miss something that adds depth trough lighting back into the picture.
Compare the eyes and hair in this picture with my first post.
How can I introduce that back on the remaining edges (after this color uniformation)?

 

You can get a similar effect by using the Bilateral blur on a colour copy of the image and increasing the Luminosity and reducing the Saturation, i then gave the B/W copy with the line drawing effect (from detect edges and invert) an overlay blend mode:
 

For me, the fun part of constructing Photo macros that actually do what I want is figuring out how to work around the many limitations of the current implementation. It is also the most frustrating part. 
That is partially because there are no workarounds for many of those limitations & partially because there is almost no support for editing macros once they have been created. For example, even something as simple as exposing a parameter in a step that has a gear icon or changing its initial value(s) requires saving the macro as a new one. It would be a lot less frustrating if we had a 'replace' or 'save changes' button in the Macro panel.

made with designer, just one curve with a gradiënt duplicated.

gdenby’s technique can produce some lovely results without much work.
Well worth experimenting with.
My second example uses an Acrylic brush and the Subtract bend mode.
My third example uses all kinds or semi-randomly chosen effects (not particularly useful but interesting).
My fourth example uses a bitmap stroke fill, a Gaussian Blue effect and an Add blend mode.

The basic technique would be to make a 1px vertical selection from the bottle inline with the "D" copy/paste to a new layer and the use a mesh warp to stretch the selection. To get the upper part of the "swoosh" you would duplicate the 1px selection and mesh warp it to that shape.

Billie whizz.afphoto saved with history

Okay guys, I just recorded a macro.
Seems to run as expected.
I also attached the .afphoto file, so that you can see which actions (as @summersara indicated) have been taken.
May still need improvement ! Just give it a try.

Hubert
 
Cartoon effect.afphoto
Cartoon effect.afmacros

Hi @summersara
Great, thanks for the hint ..
 

@HVDB Photography & @summersara Thanks very much for posting your macros! 
It is interesting to see how these two approaches differ, like reducing gamma in a Levels adjustment vs. a Black & White adjustment for the B/W copy, naming or not naming the layers, etc.
FWIW, I like that in the 14 step version step 1 is to unlock the layer, since the default is to lock the "(Background)" layer. I also like that in the 29 step version the original layer is untouched & names are assigned to the two layers creating the effects.
I think the 'move inside' steps in the summersara version could be eliminated by taking advantage of a little known macro feature, that being that macros record the assistant settings for adding adjustment & filter layers when the macro is created, so setting that to "Add adjustment as child layer" (& if a live filter is used "Add filter as child layer") prior to creating the macro would automatically apply the move inside steps. I assume in HVDB's version that was in effect when the macro was recorded, explaining why that macro lacks 'move inside' steps.
Since adjustments & live filters are non-destructive & are accessible in the Layers panel, both versions provide for post-macro tweaks, which I found useful for controlling the strength, softness, etc. of the effect for different photos. Very cool! 

Hi bilboudo,
I loaded about 15 of my own photos taken from my iPhone onto different layers, most of them are about 2MB size and set the new document as A4, there was a little bit of lag when moving and resizing after adding any more photos after 15, I’m on the IPad 2017 9.7inch and so I think you would get much better results on a IPad Pro.

Lovely effect Hubert and thanks for adding the Macro and file
I've not done a macro before but had a go, sorry if its not up to much:
 
Cartoon Sketch.afmacro

You can get some good effects with power duplicate, check out this thread and some of the examples by @ErrkaPetti Hey Affinity

Lovely effect Hubert and thanks for adding the Macro and file
I've not done a macro before but had a go, sorry if its not up to much:
 
Cartoon Sketch.afmacro

You can get a similar effect by using the Bilateral blur on a colour copy of the image and increasing the Luminosity and reducing the Saturation, i then gave the B/W copy with the line drawing effect (from detect edges and invert) an overlay blend mode:
 

Wonderful! Thank you so much to have spent time to make the test!
So this evening I'll try the update to iPad OS with less fear.
Thanks again, too much gentle!

A quick manual example.
Method. Use pen and snap to grid to make regular straight line, all sharp nodes. Duplicate. Select all, switch to node tool. Select columns, and click the transform box widget. Reshape node columns. Select all, and turn to smooth nodes.

Yep, a thanks from me too, would explain why it’s hit and miss depending on what I’m clicking on and I’m on a 9.7 inch iPad, so I’m guessing that’s why the small profile thumbnails are being cut off at the end of the list of threads.

I suspect it depends on the size of your iPad too. If portrait is using the mobile site and landscape is using the desktop site then you would only experience this new behaviour with one orientation. it may be that on some ipads that both orientations show the desktop site (with this new behaviour exposed).

Once again, this is an Apple change for Safari on iPadOS. While the previous link was a user responding to a different post in a different forum, here it is "from the horse's mouth" as it were, from Apple's WWDC19 session on "Desktop-class Browsing on iPad"
(from the transcript of session 203 - https://developer.apple.com/videos/play/wwdc2019/203/?time=1377)
"The user can tap a second time if they wanted to click." 
While anything is possible about future changes, this is a definitive statement from Apple: if you're using the "desktop class browsing" on iPadOS 13+ and the website implements hover and link on the same element, you're going to have to tap twice.

I know designer is meant for vector, but I just had so so much fun with it's pixel persona. I doubt if I'll ever use procreate much anymore, if ever.
Not to mention if it's anything past a doodle or a sketch I always need the vector tools.