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Gear maker

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  1. I agree and have had the same problem. Another issue is that if a layer is clicked to select, and then some time in the future a cmd + shift + return is pressed it will go into a name change, accepting the following keystrokes as a name. But if the layer is selected from the drawing this doesn't work. Not sure which condition is the bug. But I have renamed many layers V, A and G by accident because I hit cmd + shift + return when I wanted to hit cmd + return. Sometimes VVV before I notice where my keystrokes are actually going.
  2. Maybe you turned on one of the node snap icons some have a large effect.
  3. CAStalling, you'll find that the following icons on the context toolbar will also cause snapping that just turning off snapping will not affect. I pretty well keep one finger hovering over the opt key (on a MAC) at all times. Pressing this will skip both kinds of snapping.
  4. Shotster, Yup, you pretty well have the process. If you are only doing a few words like a banner or title it's not too bad (also depends upon how picky you've got to be). When I've done this myself I've used this process (there's also an alternate below). 1 select your text then cmd + return to convert to curves 2 select the individual layers of the letters and do an expand stroke 3 divide the selection, the divide will make it easier to separate insides from outsides 4 select the wanted layers and place them in a group (layers having outsides and any insides needed) 5 do a subtract of the insides from the outside in letters that have insides, one letter at a time 6 do a cleanup, select any nodes that should be sharp and convert them to sharp nodes, use the Convert to sharp in the context tool bar after selecting them all. Some bottoms and tops will be at angles and will need to be straightened. Depending on the font there will be a few oddities you'll have to decide if they are visible or need fixing. To aid cleanup I turn on the visibility of the original in a different color so it's easier to see what's wonky during cleanup. Another process that is maybe more work but maybe easier especially if I'm really picky. 1 make a copy below the original and add the stroke to the copy in a completely different color 2 place a guide line along the tops and bottoms of the letters where you want the tops and bottoms to be The rest is all done to the original, not the copy: 3 select the text then cmd + return to convert to curves 4 divide the selection, the divide will make it easier to separate insides from outsides 5 select all the outsides and using the node tool drag any sharp nodes so they line up with the stroke in the copy and possibly with the guides. On something like an O select all the outside nodes and using the Transform mode drag it to the size wanted, then shout off the visibility so you can see the insides of the copy). Then do the same with the inside nodes. Finally do a subtract to reconstruct the letter. Maybe a little more work but modifying the original is sometimes easier than the stroked letter. A lot less "fussy" cleanup and a nicer result. No simple way that I have found. Mike
  5. JimmyJack, that method worked pretty good. I only had to replace the one node. Much better. Thanks for the help.
  6. Has anyone a suggestion on how to extend a gradient without messing up all the internal nodes. Say I basically want to add a new end node a certain distance past the existing end node. If I just grab the existing end node and drag it, the other nodes I have between will be moved proportionately in that direction. How can I move that end node without moving the interior nodes?
  7. Gear maker

    Drop Shadow?

    FYI this is offered in the Effects panel by clicking the Offset Tool, but not in the Layer Effects panel. Why it's missing from the Layer Effects panel I questioned a few years ago and never got an answer.
  8. The Elliptical Marquee tool only does circles/ellipse. It doesn't use any smarts, so you have total control. The narrator just has experience in picking his starting and ending places so it looks like it's doing it itself. The shift key just keeps it round. You can move it by grabbing in the middle and moving it, while still in the Elliptical Marquee tool. You can hold down ctrl to add to it and opt to subtract. But I know of no way once the mouse button is released to resize it. Just start again.
  9. As haakoo said the most automatic method is to use the Alignment tool. Create one row of blocks with any spacing. Then select all layers in the row and using the top half of the Alignment tool as shown below. Hit enter after typing in the 6 pt. Then the best way would be to place that row in a group. Copy the group as many times as you need for rows. Then select all groups and use the vertical alignment portion (bottom half) of the Alignment tool to position each row 6 pts. FYI you don't have to change the units for the entire drawing, if you type in "6 pt" it won't matter if the drawing is in inches or meters.
  10. When my work tends to bog down the computer is more on the usage of certain tools. If a large number of layers use fx (Layer Effects) especially 3D and Bevel/Emboss then AD will start acting slow to do the redraw. I suspect that the gradient when used extensively, or maybe it's the complexity of the gradients used, may also help slowing down the redraws. The further it's zoomed in the more the slowness appears. I've had drawings with thousands of layers that acted fine and drawings with less than a thousand the were very sluggish. Drawings with 40,000 layers have worked. I don't think there is an absolute maximum layer count. And my computer is much less endowed than what you are using. I do find that if the Undo limit is set at the default after several hours of working I get a slowness that does not occur if I limit the undo's to 400 to 500. And I've never found that I have wanted to undo any where near 400 steps. If I run into sluggish operations then I split my drawing up into two or three working drawings and have one that I don't do a lot of work with that combines the two or three working drawings into a final one. But that is pretty rare.
  11. Gear maker

    lock layer ineffective

    Boldlinedesign, I can't tell from the video what key strokes are being done. But as far as my experience has gone I believe that a copy & paste will make an unlocked copy that could then be moved. Also a cmd J (ctrl J in windows) power duplicate will also make a copy that will be unlocked so it could be moved. I see you are on Layer1 then suddenly it looks like you are on the Background. Then it looks like Layer1 is expanded and then it looks like a copy of the background is at the top of the Layer1 list. Could you have tried to do a node copy but didn't have a node selected so it copied the background? Hopefully this will have helped you see what happened. Otherwise we'd need to know what keystrokes have been done. Are you using a tablet?
  12. I was using OSX on a mac and had the issue. So it is both systems.
  13. Would it be possible to change the cursor of the color picker tool to show a square that shows the 17x17, 65x65, 129x129 or 257x257 area to be used to sample the color. With zooming, especially when far away from 100%, there is no way to currently visualize that size, unless maybe the ruler is kept at pixels and way zoomed in. I frequently want to sample a color area making sure not to include a bright adjacent shape or maybe to include that shape. Currently it is extremely awkward to do.
  14. Dominus, in your Affinity image there is some type of bounding box around the white shape. What is causing that bounding box? And what is causing it to be offset from the edges of the white? I don't recognize it from AD. It looks like whatever the cloud is doing it's trying to fill that box. If it's actually a bounding box it should be tightly around the white area. Without seeing the actual drawing I can't tell what is causing this offset.
  15. John, you have quite a task ahead of yourself. Interesting idea pulling the data from the SVG. I'm not sure I have any suggestions, actually a question. I'm assuming that you will only have one shape in the SVG. Or are you planning on calculating the lengths of all groups in the file? A month or so ago I had experimented with a method of counting the number of nodes in a path and the number of paths(layers) in the file. I found the EPS to be easier to work with. Have you looked at it? Good luck. I'll be curious to see how it works. Mike
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