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h_d

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Everything posted by h_d

  1. Hi ETC, In the Swatches studio, click the Hamburger and choose Add Document Palette: This will give you a palette called "Unnamed". Click the hamburger and choose Rename Palette... and give your palette a name. To the right of the palette name is an icon three squares and a plus sign. Hover over and you'll see it says "Add current fill to palette". Click it. Your current fill is now in your palette: Right click (ctrl-click, alternate click) on the colour and choose Rename fill: Pink for February: Rinse and repeat...
  2. None of these issues is fixed in 1.9.0.196. They are also present in the current retail release (1.8.4). Just to recap. I am using a 2018 15" MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. In Develop Persona, while developing a raw image (Panasonic .RW2 in my case) Clicking the red Close button in the image window causes the image (modified or not) to close immediately without any sort of warning dialog. Pressing the Cancel button in the Touch Bar switches me immediately into Photo Persona, with any edits to the raw image lost. Clicking the Esc button in the Touch Bar has no effect. The first two of these are particularly annoying and poor UI design. Attempting to close a window without saving should result in an "Are you sure?" warning dialog. Cancelling an editing session using the Touch Bar should work in the same way as cancelling an editing session by clicking in the UI. And why provide an Esc button in the Touch Bar if it doesn't do anything? Cheers, H
  3. Hi, The marvellous new Select Same command has the option to select same "Transparency". Shouldn't this be "Opacity" to make it consistent with the object definition in the Layers panel? They seem to be the same thing - objects with the same Opacity are all selected with Select Same - Transparency, whereas objects with different Opacity are not. Or am I missing something? Cheers, H
  4. Ah sorry, my mistake. Duplicate the t-shirt layer, drag the duplicate above the dots group and then drag the question mark into the top shirt as a mask:
  5. Drag the Question Mark shape to the right-hand edge of the Dot Pattern Group in the Layer List and drop it when you see the vertical highlight. This will mask the dots and reveal the shirt. (My dots are a bit bigger than yours, but even so...) Screen Recording 2020-09-13 at 13.11.50.mov
  6. Perspective tool to straighten it up, followed by a light crop to remove any transparent areas. Use the rectangular marquee tool to select the very top edge of the sign, cut and paste and drag the pasted element down to just over the word "Little" Same with the very bottom edge - select, cut, paste and drag up to just below the word "Snoring" Crop off the top and bottom of the image: (Needs a better crop at the bottom but that's a general idea...) .afphoto file has history saved so you can see the steps. Cheers, H snoring.afphoto
  7. A further suggestion - convert the image to greyscale, adjust brightness and contrast to give a 'punchy' black and white image, convert back to RGB, then apply a Gradient Map. Don't use the "Lighter Colour" and "Darker Colour" blend modes. Use a single Gradient Map, with the blend mode set to Normal, with your darker colour set to the left-hand end and your lighter colour set to the right-hand end. I've attached an .afphoto file with the history saved and using your two colours - hope it's close to what you want. ADD: To explain a little further - the Gradient Map adjustment maps the left-hand blob (your brown) to the darkest (black) pixels in the original, and the right-hand blob (your beige) maps to the lightest (white) pixels. Pixels with intermediate tones (greys) map to the intermediate tones in the gradient map. That's why I would suggest converting to greyscale and adjusting brightness and contrast - the more contrast in the original, the better the sepia-toned image will appear. If there are no blacks in your original, there will be no dark browns in the sepia-toned version. Likewise with whites. brugge_sepia.afphoto
  8. My impression is that the QuickLook preview presented by .afphoto documents is a smaller, lo-res embedded jpeg. (Or png, or pdf, or tiff... without access to the structure of the proprietary .afphoto file format it's unlikely we'll ever know.) I think that Serif could change its size and resolution if they chose, but at the cost of increasing the size of the already bloated .afphoto file. I suspect improving the quality and size of the QuickLook preview isn't at the top of their to-do list right now. But I'm just speculating, and I really don't find the current size of the QuickLook preview to be that much of an issue.
  9. Or... Draw an ellipse. Convert to curves. Use the Node tool to add two nodes to the left and right of the top node on the ellipse. Drag the top node up. Convert it from Smooth to Sharp. Adjust to taste... Screen Recording 2020-09-12 at 20.50.34.mov Hope it helps! H
  10. Yes. Save the first document. Open the new document, display the Text Styles panel in Studio and click the 'hamburger' icon in the top right corner. Choose Import Styles..., navigate to your original document, select it and click Open. You'll get a dialog asking you if you want to rename the original styles, and pointing out any naming conflicts: Once you're happy, click OK to import the original styles to your new document. Ctrl-click (right-click, secondary click) on it in the Text Styles panel and choose Delete:
  11. Well my first supposition was wrong - the document has no masters, so there aren't different masters for the different pages. Next guess - are you Printing to pdf or Exporting? If I Print to PDF, all my pages are forced to A4 size (with the two-page spreads rotated 90º), giving me the version attached as 'pdf print'. In effect, the front and back pages are twice the size of the spread pages because the spreads have been squeezed down to fit an A4 sheet. If I Export as opposed to Print, I get a pdf in which all the pages (front, back and halves of spreads) are the same size. I've attached this as 'pdf export'. To Export, go to the File menu, choose Export... and select PDF from the options. Cheers, H pdf export.pdf pdf_print.pdf
  12. FWIW, if you're on a Mac, Preferences is under the 'Application Name' menu (eg Affinity Photo > Preferences), not under 'Edit'.
  13. I will go my grave swearing that I did not have that option when I first looked on screen, but I then checked the Touch Bar on my MacBook Pro and it was there, and when I checked again on screen it was there too.
  14. I flattened the original 0002 in Photo, exported as TIFF (without a white matte) and opened in GraphicConverter: Looks a whole lot better, though GC still says it's RGB. Seems like flattening has the same effect as converting from G16 to G8.
  15. Hi @Myzlopez! Affinity Photo is primarily an image editor. If you want to create print products, Affinity Publisher is a page layout program and may be better suited to your needs.
  16. Try converting the Colour Format to Grey/8 from Grey/16: Choir_Herald_April_1921 now looks like this in GC: And no I don't understand why GC says it's RGB... Wonder what IA thinks? I've attached the converted TIFF. The_Choir_Herald_April_1921_0000_8bit.tiff
  17. Am I right in thinking that the originals are getting squashed to 50% of their original width in the GraphicConverter/IA versions?
  18. Saw that, still fiddling with it. I have an image editor on Mac called Graphic Converter. It opens 0002 like this: So there's cropped content in your .TIFF which isn't displayed in AFPhoto but is still there in the file. I'm still struggling to imagine why - did you rasterise after cropping?
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