MendipBlue

I guess it might also depend on the distortion characteristics of the specific lens. As for which workflow is easier, if you are going with an all-manual approach, I agree with you. It can be hard to determine how far to rotate the focus ring between shots, and to get reproducible results. With a good rail, you can control the distance pretty precisely, and use DOF calculations to determine the right amount of inter-shot travel. Having said that, there are camera control tools out there, e.g. DSLR Dashboard, that can automate the focus adjustment, too (I haven't tried that particular feature of DSLR Dashboard).

Focus Stacking isn't currently possible in Affinity Photo. It's been requested before so hopefully this is something that will be added in the future :)

You can also just click & hold briefly on any of the bundled tool icons (ones with the little triangle/arrow in the corner) to pop out the other tools. Although slower, sometimes it is easier to hit the tool icon than the very small triangle.
 
Also, if you find yourself using the inpainting brush tool a lot, you can use "View > Customize Tools..." to add it separately to the tools palette, or assign it a unique keyboard shortcut.

@MikeFromMesa: Happy to have helped a fellow AP user! I was honestly blown away when I discovered this feature. My Photoshop workflow was always slow and convoluted due to its limitations: "Take 5/whatever layers, duplicate them, merge the duplicates to 1 layer, hide the 5 originals, apply static effects to the merged layer" - and I could never edit the applied effects since they were all static, and if I wanted to tweak individual layers I had to delete the merged layer, unhide all the originals, do the edits and then repeat the whole FX process.
 
Now with Affinity Photo I just use Live FX on the group of layers, and I can even change the blend mode and opacity of the effect (avoids having to duplicate layers for FX too). It's already revolutionized the way I work. The documents I make now only consists of *actual valuable layers* and not hundreds of hidden "step by step" layers.
 
Launch day is tomorrow and I'm ecstatic, knowing that's it a total Photoshop replacement and that it will just keep getting better and better! :-D Serif are my heroes.

Try this instead of duplicating:
 
* Select the layer
* Add new Live Filter (hourglass-icon at the bottom of the layers panel) > High Pass Filter
* In the bottom right of the open window, set the Blend Mode to Soft Light or Overlay
* Now just adjust the Radius

Hi thanks for your help now understand what I did wrong ,when i clicked on the colour thing I changed both of them {following him a bit too close ;)  } all sorted now thanks again for your  input .

I've watched them and thought they were a great introduction to the product and an enjoyable watch. I'm looking forward to some more in depth tutorials to follow on from these ones.

Hi Kmau,
Welcome to Affinity Forums :)
The help file covers all software functionality in detail. If you prefer you can also check Affinity Photo video tutorials.
If you have any question, just ask away here in the forums. There's always someone willing to help :)

I don't know if this is documented somewhere -- I discovered it by accident -- but in AP the View > Customize Tools window has both the multi-tool flyout icons and the individual tools available. So if you find yourself using one or two of the flyout ones frequently, you can add them to the Tools palette as individual tools (no flyout delay required to access them).
 
This can be a real timesaver for some workflows.
 
The same is true for AD, but in a more limited way -- the individual shape tools are not available.

Hello Daniel,
Welcome to Affinity Forums
These are the official support forums. All Affinity staff (including developers) participate here actively and are able to reply to any question you may have.
If you need you can also contact us via e-mail to affinitysupport@serif.com.

in general, a threshold setting defines a minimum value in an image's parameter for a filter to be applied. the higher the threshold, the subtler the effect, since it is applied to smaller portions of the image (the ones that fall above the threshold value).
if you think about the threshold filter, it allow to set a value in the tonal range (i guess) of the image: any pixel that falls below that value becomes black; any pixel above becomes white.
about the unsharp mask threshold, it is related to the difference between the original image and the blurred mask used to generate the effect. you may be interested in the "digital unsharp masking" chapter of the wikipedia article about unsharp mask (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsharp_masking).

Maybe you can take a look at this video. It's in German, but with English subtitles.
 
https://youtu.be/srNqGqVBkxA

i can only speak about ap, since don't use and don't have ad.
almost all the bugs and glitches i've found so far have been fixed at present, and those that are still there, well, i'm not sure they're not by design and i can live with them.
i do photo editing and retouching. i am not a professional. photography is my hobby and i understand that people using ap as part of their professional workflow may expect it to be bug-free and richer in filters and tools.
my job, however, is in the software field. i know that balancing between bug fixing and new features development is a hard path: whatever direction you choose, you can't make all of your customers happy. and the priorities you set along the chosen direction may not be the same of your customers.
i think that even the simplest software has bugs. i could not get my hands on a bug-free software until now, and i have been messing up computers for thirty years or so, now.
having two development teams, strictly cooperating, could be a strategy: one working on new features, and one on bugfixing. it's an expensive strategy, however.
 
in a word, i am satisfied with ap.
there are things i would modify, sometimes something doesn't work as expected and i could call that a bug, maybe. but it is far superior to any other photo retouching tool i tried (never put my hands on photoshop) and i'm happy i discovered it.
 
a certain priority on bugfixing could be a good thing, but maybe i'd be more excited about some new features (a lens flare filter, for example) and an evolution f some of those that exist already (a live haze removal filter and zoom filter, for example). maybe my preferences depend on the timeline...

> I am beginning to think that Affinity is too complex for my level.
Hang in there, it's worth it! See for example http://manuschwendener.ch/2015/12/23/affinity-photo-dodge-tool
 
> I am having the same issue
> Impainting brush, healing brush, blemish removal brush
 
If you're new to Affinity Photo and - as I am! - new to working with layers, maybe try the inpainting brush etc. as the first step after opening a picture in AP. 
 
Like this you'll get the hang of it and know what to look for when it's disabled.
 
---
 
A very usual workflow for me is:
- I open a picture
- I crop it
- In the right hand column I click Adj for Adjustments
- I click on Levels
- I drag the Gamma slider to left left to make the picture brighter
- I close the popup from the Levels adjustment
 
- Now I want to remove some of the branches using the Inpainting brush tool
-> Inpainting brush has no effect whatsoever :(
 
Solution (see screenshot): 
- In the right hand column I have to switch from the Adjustment tab to the Lyr. tab
- Here I see that the (Levels Adjustment) layer is active <- which AP created and made active without my knowing
- All I have to do now is click on Background (Pixel) so this is blue and the (Levels Adjustment) isn't blue any longer
-> Inpainting Brush Tool is working again

This was the thing I was getting wrong all of the time with the inpaint, dodge and burn tools.
 
It was really frustrating trying to apply subtle changes and thinking I was trying to be too subtle only to realise I didn't have the background layer selected.
 
I'm getting it right most of the time now, but I'm still getting it wrong occasionally.

Please make sure that you paint on the background layer or a pixel layer and not the adjustment layer.

I had this problem too, and could find no way to solve it UNTIL I realised that the photo has to be a raster layer before these tools will work. Bingo - problem solved.

Hi billbir,
Welcome to Affinity Forums :)
You don't have any layer selected in your screen shot. Click on the Background layer to select it (it should become blue if you haven't changed OS X preferences) then paint with the Inpainting Brush over the image.

A full Synology S.M.A.R.T Test comes to my mind.
And also wireless connection.
At last afp.
 
Good you have a backup !!!

If the inpainting brush doesn't give the desired result have a look at the burn brush. I've used that to tone down distracting highlights. Dialling down the opacity of the brush makes the effect more subtle. 

Hi Macoun,
Welcome to Affinity Forums :)
That's because you are working with an Image layer type. Right-click on it in the Layers panel and select Rasterise... (to convert it to a Pixel layer). You should now be able to delete just the part you selected.
Image layers are considered an object layer type, like Text or Shapes and can only be transformed at a global level (scale/skew/rotate etc). To work at a pixel level you must convert them to a Pixel layer as described above. You can identify the type of layer you are working with looking at the label in parenthesis after the layer's name in the Layers panel.

I guess so, it does require some perseverance and determination to learn anything new. Certainly worth it though and a great support network on here. Affinity is still at an early age and no doubt is developing in to something even better than it already is.
 
 
Allan

here is a well sorted list of the vimeo tutorials 
 
by default (and probably by design) the videos on the vimeo channel are listed with the latest uploads first
 
but the beginner tutorials are a while back so you´re now seeing the more advanced tutorials first which might be the reason for your confusion (totally reasonable)
 
I think when you start of with the structured list linked above and you look for keywords that catch your interest you'll get into the Affinity workflow pretty fast!
I do personally use 99% PS tutorials to discover new techniques and in 99% they translate without problems into Affinity once a few things are sorted out.

Hi Kalense,
Have you taken a look at the Help file? It covers extensively all the tools/features of the program with step by step instructions. It should give you the structure/reference you're looking for. We are continuously adding new videos and improving their organisation too, so hopefully things should get easier as we move forward. If you have any specific questions please post them here in the forums. There's plenty of knowledgeable users and staff ready to help.

Hi all,
 
If you haven't already go and check out this list of tutorials from Affinity TV to enhance your skills and knowledge of Affinity Photo & Designer and take them to the next level. Don't forget to subscribe to stay up to date.
 
 
AFFINITY DESIGNER TUTORIALS
 
1. How to create album artwork
 
2. Create slides for Keynote/Powerpoint
 
3. Create artwork on your phone & edit in Affinity
 
4. Web Design & Prototype 
 
5. Create a business card
 
6. Create an email signature
 
7. Create a logo & animate using Motion & Final Cut (In this we create something similar to a Google advert)
 
 
AFFINITY PHOTO TUTORIALS
 
1. How to swap out a face
 
2. Select & change the colour of a car
 
3. Using mockups 
 
4. Compositing images
 
5. How to place a logo in perspective
 
 
 
Allan